Changing coolant at 10 years - should I change the radiator?

[gusferlizi]

In another turn on this, it seems MB have stopped selling the blue 325.0 coolant (which is what was in my system - see the blue trace in the jug photo). MB 325.0 is a G48 coolant, and e.g. Comma xstream G48 is approved by Merc according to Bevo and still available.

Apparently due to environmental concerns, the boron in the Merc 325.0 is the issue, and all G48 coolants are to not be used in Merc workshops?

325.0 was replaced with 325.5, and then 325.6, which is pink G40 type coolant.

Possible service bulletin from Merc confirms these Merc supplied fluids can both be mixed in any quantities without issue (I wouldn't trust other brands). I've noticed (and hence why I looked at this) there seems to be zero MB325.0 for sale online anywhere.

What coolant would people use on these cars now? Something Merc approved for 325.0 from Bevo?

View attachment 166056

My local dealer recommends a full drain and flush before switching over to pink.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

My local dealer recommends a full drain and flush before switching over to pink.

Anywhere would tbh.

 

[Pontoneer]

Because to my understanding, to change all the aux belt and tensioners, the radiator and fan need to come out to give a hope in hell's chance of giving enough room from above. I therefore need to put new coolant in. As I'm there, for another £120, I could put a new rad in. But if the consensus is put the old rad back in as it will have years left, then I can do that.

I’d certainly replace all the 10 year old hoses around the radiator and thermostat once I’d disturbed them , but as others have said , I’d inspect the radiator and go with what I find .

Incidentally, is your car automatic ? If so the ATF cooler will likely be in the bottom of the radiator . The pipes , especially the short flexible ones at the front , often corrode , so be prepared to replace these too .

Also , when was your gearbox last serviced ? ATF and filter chance might be as well to do since you’d be disturbing that too .

Funny how jobs can grow arms and legs …

 

[MrGreedy]

I’d certainly replace all the 10 year old hoses around the radiator and thermostat once I’d disturbed them , but as others have said , I’d inspect the radiator and go with what I find .

Incidentally, is your car automatic ? If so the ATF cooler will likely be in the bottom of the radiator . The pipes , especially the short flexible ones at the front , often corrode , so be prepared to replace these too .

Also , when was your gearbox last serviced ? ATF and filter chance might be as well to do since you’d be disturbing that too .

Funny how jobs can grow arms and legs …

ATF will be changed by Merc specialist on Friday

The top, short 'U' shaped oil line at the front, that goes from near the top of the back of the rad to the additional oil cooler is in the worst condition on the body of the pipe itself although isn't too bad, and the connections (covered by the translucent white caps in the image below) into the rad and the oil cooler are perfect. At another £100, I'll reuse this. Part No. A2045280924 (80 in the diagram).

 

[MrGreedy]

Got a box of all my new bits this morning, so hopefully it thaws a little today and gets a degree or two above freezing and I can get them fitted.

This time, I'm going to apply a corrosion protection spray to the metalwork to hopefully slow down the corrosion that is on every one of the original hose collars!

 

[StMarks]

Got a box of all my new bits this morning, so hopefully it thaws a little today and gets a degree or two above freezing and I can get them fitted.

This time, I'm going to apply a corrosion protection spray to the metalwork to hopefully slow down the corrosion that is on every one of the original hose collars!

Can't go wrong with a coating of ACF50 on any exposed unprotected metalwork imho.