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Claying my car for the first time. Any advice?

Conquistador

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 30, 2011
Messages
1,005
Location
Essex
Car
2012 S350L BlueTec
Going to take advantage of the long weekend and really give the car a good clean and polish.

I've watched a few YouTube videos on the use of clay to remove the build up of cr@p on the body panels and it looks very effective. So reading the various threads on here from owners having their cars detailed and doing it themselves has sort of inspired me to try it.

Anybody have any useful tips for a first time clay user? :rolleyes: Or is it as simple as liberally spraying the lubricant and gently running the clay over the bodywork.
 
Keep the surface very lubricated so that the clay doesn't drag. Fold the clay when it gets dirty. Don't rush and scuff the paint. When you have finished wash the car well to get rid of residue then I'd use Auto Glym Super Resin Polish and Then a coat of extra gloss protection. Other waxes/polishes and finishers are available!
 
Can someone write up a guide to detailing, eg: each step/order you should take?

Detailing world is too vast to get a simple answer.
 
What I do is
1.WASH 1. Hose the car down to wash off the worst of the rubbish. There is a debate about jet washes being too hard and making stone chips worse and also removing previous waxes etc.
2. WASH 2. Then I hand wash using a good car shampoo (I like Zymol Autowash)
3. WASH 3. Rinse with hose again until.
4. Dry the bodywork. I like microfiber towels or a good synthetic shammy.
5. Clay car using lots of lubricant.
6. Use AG Tar remover or similar on stubborn bits.
7. Wash 4. As wash 2.
8. Wash 5. As wash 3.
9. Dry car thoroughly then leave to dry off while you do other jobs.
10. Wheels. I still use a wheel cleaner. Some hate the Acid in them. Don't leave it on for more than a minute then agitate with a wheel clean brush. Only work on one wheel at a time.
11. Dry wheel.
12. Use clay and Tar remover if necessary.
13. Wash again.
14. When all wheels are clean, then leave them to properly dry. 14b. Either wax wheels or use a wheel sealant. 14c . Dress tyres!
15. Hoover inside really well
16. I use cotton buds on air vents and trim joins.
17. I use an aerosol air duster on cracks that can't be cleaned with a cotton bud.
18. Clean inside glass.
19. Dress plastics with something like AG Vinyl cleaner.
20. Dress leather with a Leather food/cream.
21. Outside should now be properly dry. So use a glass cleaner and then a glass polish before starting on paintwork.
22. Now start on paintwork. Apply 1 coat of polish like AG Super Resin. Do not get it on your glass or rubber/plastic trims.
23. then apply 1 coat of Extra Gloss protection.
24. Then use a chrome polish on grill and exhausts etc. Mind paintwork.
25. when it is all finished go over every painted surface with a detailing/finishing spray
26. Using a cotton bud and detailing spray to clean every panal gap out, every trim joint, every badge.
27. Go to bed knackered!!
 
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Thanks, do you not use a Mop/polisher?
 
When I clay -which isn't that often- I spread an old sheet on the ground at the panel I'm attacking. Then, when the clay slips out my hand, which it will do, it won't get contaminated by grit.


.
 
Some good advice so far, thinking about it is nerve racking but once you make a start and get a feel for it you will be ok.

Get the car as clean as you can, try doing the tar spots etc first.

Start at the top and work your way down, a few square inches at a time with plenty of lube.

Cut the clay up, I used the AG bar, as its small I cut into 3.

After a few minutes you will feel the difference and when to move on.

My body work wasn't too bad, the wheels where bad though, even after being washed twice until spotless, the clay was virtually ripped out of my hand, ended up doing an inch at a time.
 
Hi there,

There's 3 different ways of claying. One is wet claying (clay the car with lubricant just after you have washed the car and it's wet still. This involves re washing the car after. Then there's clay pads (or mitt) this you do when the cars washed but wet except snow foam is used as the lubricant. Then there's what I do, which is dry claying. I wash the car using my usual method, dry the car completely with 70/30 towels and warm air blower. I then re wet the car using megs last touch detailer as lubrication and then clay the vehicle. Once completed I wipe the car down with a microfibre and the complete the clay sling removal with another microfibre and IPA. This way is my favourite method as it means I always finish with a perfectly clean, dry, smooth surface with the added benefit being that my paint is free from silcone filler polishers. This is great method also because the IPA is removing any old waxes.

As regards to methods I'll see if koolvin will make a post a sticky and I'll write it out for you guys.

Also with the remark that hand polishing gets the same results as machine polishes (just a bit longer) is not true. Machine polishing is designed for paint correction (to remove defects such as holograms, buffer trails, swirl marks & light/medium scratches) the only defects by hand you can remove are holograms and very light swirls and that will be on intermediate lacquer. Mercedes 'uber hard' ceramic needs serious compound to remove even light swirl marks, so you can use filler glazes to mask light swirls for a small amount of time, but that's it.

Cheers
Mike
 
Sometimes, but they are a bit over rated. If you do it by hand it takes longer but you can get the same results.

Sorry but i dont agree i think machine polishing will gain you better results rotary for more experienced d/a for the mere mortals.

Tony.
 
Sometimes, but they are a bit over rated. If you do it by hand it takes longer but you can get the same results.

No you won't, never. Tried it. Machine polishing is the only corrective measure to restore a MB paint job, the ceramicoat is too tough for hand rubbing, yes SRP and the like will hide a lot of things but on dark paint you're wasting your time and money. My tuppenceworth.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Took a good couple of hours and I rather enjoyed it and found it rewarding. It definitely needed doing. This was just after doing the top of the boot lid!...

t8rjew.jpg
 
Claying tips:
1. Dont use expensive lubricants. Your run of the mill shampoo will do, as will washing up liquid. Just dliute as normal.
2. Have a bucket of hot water at hand, when re shaping the clay bar, do this in the hot water. It will keep it more plyable and less likely to "marr" the paint.
3. Start on the roof and work down.
4. Buy 2 claybars - you will drop one, honest. Once dropped, bin it!!!!
5. Mould the clay bar so its pebble shaped and sits nicely in the palm of your hand.
6. Lubricate panel well and then move the clay bar back and forth in a straight line, no more than 6 inches.
7. Clay the panel in 2ft x 2ft sections. Then into hot water, to fold clay bar and reveal fresh area.
8. Feel the area that has been clayed, close your eyes and feel with your finger tips, honest!. When dryed trying putting on some latex gloves, then run your fingers over the paint, the latex will soon pick up on any crap in the paint.
9. Dont rush - these stages are critical prior to polishing.
10. Warning - a claybar is an abrasive, it can "marr" the paint finish, so do be prepared to polish this marring out afterwards. A medium cut polish or a pre wax cleanser is ideal for this.
11. Always clay in the cool, if its hot, always wash down afterwards as the lubricant can dry out and stain.

Ps Good luck trying to polish out swirls in Merc paint by hand!
 
Don't use a clay bar. Use the clay mitt.

Is it really that much more convenient than a clay bar?

The only reason I don't clay more is because it's too time consuming.

EDIT - Actually, just read the other thread. Think I'll get one and try!
 
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R2D2 said:
What I do is 1.WASH 1. Hose the car down to wash off the worst of the rubbish. There is a debate about jet washes being too hard and making stone chips worse and also removing previous waxes etc. 2. WASH 2. Then I hand wash using a good car shampoo (I like Zymol Autowash) 3. WASH 3. Rinse with hose again until. 4. Dry the bodywork. I like microfiber towels or a good synthetic shammy. 5. Clay car using lots of lubricant. 6. Use AG Tar remover or similar on stubborn bits. 7. Wash 4. As wash 2. 8. Wash 5. As wash 3. 9. Dry car thoroughly then leave to dry off while you do other jobs. 10. Wheels. I still use a wheel cleaner. Some hate the Acid in them. Don't leave it on for more than a minute then agitate with a wheel clean brush. Only work on one wheel at a time. 11. Dry wheel. 12. Use clay and Tar remover if necessary. 13. Wash again. 14. When all wheels are clean, then leave them to properly dry. 14b. Either wax wheels or use a wheel sealant. 14c . Dress tyres! 15. Hoover inside really well 16. I use cotton buds on air vents and trim joins. 17. I use an aerosol air duster on cracks that can't be cleaned with a cotton bud. 18. Clean inside glass. 19. Dress plastics with something like AG Vinyl cleaner. 20. Dress leather with a Leather food/cream. 21. Outside should now be properly dry. So use a glass cleaner and then a glass polish before starting on paintwork. 22. Now start on paintwork. Apply 1 coat of polish like AG Super Resin. Do not get it on your glass or rubber/plastic trims. 23. then apply 1 coat of Extra Gloss protection. 24. Then use a chrome polish on grill and exhausts etc. Mind paintwork. 25. when it is all finished go over every painted surface with a detailing/finishing spray 26. Using a cotton bud and detailing spray to clean every panal gap out, every trim joint, every badge. 27. Go to bed knackered!!

Who realistically has time to do all this though. This is boarder line obsessive IMO, you will do all that then a bird will crap all over it or kids will kick a ball at it. I would rather just pay someone else to do it tbh.
 
Who realistically has time to do all this though. This is boarder line obsessive IMO, you will do all that then a bird will crap all over it or kids will kick a ball at it. I would rather just pay someone else to do it tbh.
Enjoyment, hobby, call it what you will... many people enjoy it including myself.

Think of it as car lovers version of taking steroids if that makes it easier for you to understand.......
 
Your run of the mill shampoo will do, as will washing up liquid. Just dliute as normal.

Please don't let washing-up liquid anywhere near your car. It contains salt and will attack the paintwork.
 
BernardB said:
Please don't let washing-up liquid anywhere near your car. It contains salt and will attack the paintwork.

Can use washing up liquid to strip old LSP from paint but totally agree not to be used regularly...
 

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