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CLK 230K Slow?

230KOMPRESSOR

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Joined
Nov 11, 2010
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I have come from a TT 260 bhp and when driving the clk it feels very slow, when i press the go pedal the revs seem to build very slowly and it changes sluggishly? My car had a DSG box which was very good but i think my girlfriens corsa 1.2 could give the clk a run for its money at the minute. Do you think it is a MAF problem? the car has done nearly 80k miles and my parents who owned the vehicle probably never made the car see 5 thousand revs in its life....

Advice please.

Thanks Ell
 
Check the maf with a Star (diag tester) firstly before putting one on. You should be able to read the live data for it. Saying that if it is the original one 80k is pretty good for a maf.

The engine and gearbox will self adapt to your driving style too. It will get quicker. Check the air filter and make sure the servicing is up to date.
 
A clk 230K will be nothing like as fast.
Not only does it have a slower auto box, but also approx 70bhp less, in a much heavier bigger car!
To get similar performance in a clk you would probably need a 320cdi or 430 petrol at least...

You will just have to satisfy yourself with the more pleasurable & leisurely cossetting that an MB gives.
I found personally that an MB encourages a safer drive due to the more mature characteristics, which I felt was a very good thing...
 
Thanks for the advice guys! I agree with you smatt hopefully it with slow me down slightly! Just curious how much does the clk weigh? and what is a typical 230k 1/4 mile time standard?
Not looking to go for speed with this car i am just going to do some slight mods to make it nicer, nice new wheels amg kit etc,

Any more advice appreciated thanks.
 
A standard w202 c230k saloon with a 5 speed auto is rated 8.1 seconds for 0 - 100 kmph.
In reality, it is probably faster.
The automatic box adapts to your right foot habits.
The gear box switch s/w:-
s=sport - holds gears longer
w=winter - starts in 2nd gear to help prevent rear wheels losing traction.
If you are heavy with the right foot in the wet then asr will kick in to limit power transmitted to the rear wheels and assist in regaining traction. It is the flashing triangle in the centre of the instrument panel.
Moderately pressing the accelerator will cause it to drop one gear
Depressing the pedal to the carpet will cause it to drop 2 gears
Dropping gears - automatic kickdown - takes around 1.5 seconds but done at the correct moment will effortlessly take you past traffic.
The kompressor tends to spool up at around 1,800 rpm - makes a nice whooshing noise.
The 4 cylinder engine sounds unrefined at high revs but this isn't really a problem inside the cabin.

Q: ...the revs build very slowly... can you be more specific and precise?
 
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they are awful - the clk is just too heavy for that 230Kompressor engine in my opinion.

I test drove one about 5 years ago - a three year old one - even coming from a BMW 318iS it felt sluggish and dull - god knows what it must be like to come from a 260BHp TT!!

on top of all that - they aren't even economical! - you need a 320 imo or a diesel engine which at least has a wallop more torque.
 
they are awful - the clk is just too heavy for that 230Kompressor engine in my opinion.

I test drove one about 5 years ago - a three year old one - even coming from a BMW 318iS it felt sluggish and dull - god knows what it must be like to come from a 260BHp TT!!

on top of all that - they aren't even economical! - you need a 320 imo or a diesel engine which at least has a wallop more torque.

i get ok figures from my CLK but my 230k is no where near fast but could defiantly smash any silly 318.. for some reason when i take off in mine it feels like its doing 200mph(obviously its not lol) it made all the difference fitting the OZ lightweight alloys..but cost me few G's, it just feels faster if i drive it fast. some folks on here give there 230s a pully upgrade i thought about it but its not worth it in the long run and il be getting rid of it next year for a V8 upgrade of some sort.
 
If it's still "slow" once you've checked everything mechanical then your next step is to pick up a sprintbooster IMHO.
 
I wouldn't say a CLK230K is slow, they're actually quite nippy IMHO - 0-60mph (or 62mph/100kmh) in 8 and a bit seconds, top end around 140mph. Quite a gruff, course engine and not fantastic mpg but good usable power and being supercharged the low-down torque is quite good - they pull well and are quick off the line.

Nothing like a 260bhp TT, but good entry level cars with enough power for the real world.

Will
 
i get ok figures from my CLK but my 230k is no where near fast but could defiantly smash any silly 318.. for some reason when i take off in mine it feels like its doing 200mph(obviously its not lol) it made all the difference fitting the OZ lightweight alloys..but cost me few G's, it just feels faster if i drive it fast. some folks on here give there 230s a pully upgrade i thought about it but its not worth it in the long run and il be getting rid of it next year for a V8 upgrade of some sort.

I'm not sure about the 'silly 318' bit - this was my previous 2003 model company car - a 2.0litre 16v petrol with 153bhp and 5sp manual box - it certainly felt quicker than than 230ks I drove - at least, it felt like it was much more eager to go.

on a drag strip or flat-out run the 230k might well beat it, but in the real world I would doubt there would be much in it - and best thing about the 318? - as a company car I drove it like i had stole it EVERY time i turned the key - and it still faithfully returned 40mpg average!!

-although I fancied a CLK I ended up with a BMW 325i Sport coupe.
 
Thanks again for your replys, I will have to get the car checked out first and then come back to you! , I think it may well just need a maf and probably a bit of time to adjust..... Any one have any info on a clk 230k 1/4 mile time just out of intrest?
The sprint booster looks intresting also even though it does not add bhp.
These pully kits are they readily available in the UK?
 
I replaced the MAF on the wife's 1999 SLK230 last year. It was the original unit as we have owned the car from almost new and it had only done 40K miles. Needless to say prior to this it was very sluggish (almost as if the kompressor wasn't working) and auto changes very erratic.

The new MAF completely transformed the car. Th wife thought I was wasting £140 as the engine started / ran OK. When she drove it she was delighted!

Make sure you buy a genuine Bosch unit. The original will have MB and Bosch part numbers on the side.
 

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