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CLS 55 IC pump failure Fix DIY + INFO

n13

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
30
Location
north west
Car
CLS55
I have had my IC pump in a failed state for a while, previously i noticed the loud noise from under the driver side headlight after i turned the car off, it would appear that this is a sign of a failing pump.

i have spend hours researching all the pump information so i though id condense my research...

It would appear the pretty much everybody's pump will fail at some point if it is of a certain part number. my failed part number was: A 000 500 01 86 with a date of 19-10-05. the latest pump available at mercedes for a price of £218 + VAT has a part number of A 000 500 03 86.

there is also a part number: A 000 500 48 83 which was replaced by the A 000 500 01 86 according to Mercedes parts catalogue, so this could be the first version of the pump??


|Mercedes part no.|Bosch part no.|Date
Failed pump|A 000 500 01 86|392 022 003|19-10-05
New pump|A 000 500 03 86|392 022 010|11-05-10

So i have written the following procedure showing how I did the job. it could well be incorrect, but the pump is working well and car feels stronger that ever!! :D

here goes:

step 1.

Remove front engine cover. it seemed to be just pushed on some little clip things...

2012-09-01131117.jpg


I removed the wheel (drivers side) to make life easier. there are some screws that need to be removed in the wheel arch to allow the plastic to be removed from the arch. I found that I also need to remove the plastic under the front end behind the front bumper.

once all that is removed then the pump is under there:

2012-09-01135249.jpg


here is a better view:

2012-09-01135258.jpg


pretty much in the middle of that image is a nut that allows the pump to be removed once it itself has been removed (no screw above it, just a slot that the bracket sits in)

Now on to pinching pipes... I didn't have a proper pipe pincher or mole grips so I cable tied two alen keys together tight around the pipe... it worked well, although its a little tight for space...

2012-09-01140528.jpg


once this is done, the arduous task of trying to pry the hoses off whilst keeping the clamp open... I had a paint roller tray underneath for coolant spillage (about 100ml?)

2012-09-01142802.jpg


I took some images of both the pumps for comparison, the new one was plug and play.

2012-09-01142740.jpg


2012-09-01142745.jpg


2012-09-01142750.jpg


Once the old bits are transferred to the new pump and the new pump is plumbed in (not bolted) (there was a breather hose on the old pump, this isn't required for the new one, but there is a nipple to push it onto.) then you can purge the system of air.

here is my take on it:


I removed the bleed bug from the coolant line to the super charger and put a length of clear silicon hose into the expansion tank:

2012-09-01152219.jpg


I hooked up my pump to a PC power supply I had for the 12V, easier said than done as the power pins on the motor are well sunk in, I managed with crocodile clips:

2012-09-01152447.jpg




Turn the pump on and wait for the bubbles, I messed around squishing various hoses (the feed to the pump) this forced more coolant down the bleed hose.

I left the pump going for a good 15 mins, it still sounded like there was some cavitation going on in the pump so I may bleed it again at a later date in the hope the air might have risen should there be any.

Put all the cover back and you're sorted! :D

Well that's my take on the procedure. if you have any additions feel free to add them, I would have loved this help, hope it helps somebody else to cure their car when it goes limp once you're having fun!!
 

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