Cost to re seal a cdi injector

[amazighman]

I thought w210 injectors do no need coding

 

[Wolfie1]

In the past 10 years pretty much every injector needs coding, i could be wrong

 

[amazighman]

This car is over 16 years old...how however the injector i bought has exactly the same part number as my old one

 

[Wolfie1]

My bad then

 

[classiccarzone]

Again the magnification may be exaggerating the damage but to me it looks like there is a slope of at least one mil...and it is uniform.
Somebody must have used a grinder of some sort on that in the past.

 

[amazighman]

Again the magnification may be exaggerating the damage but to me it looks like there is a slope of at least one mil...and it is uniform.
Somebody must have used a grinder of some sort on that in the past.

To be honest it is quite bad, and thats why it was leaking, like i said the bottom of the washer and the surface of the head seem very good, that leads me to think it was blowing from top where that damage has occurred.

Do you think these injectors need coding like the one of the guys here said? I bought new one exactly same part number and with this age car i dont think it needs coding... Any ideas

 

[bob6600]

W210 injectors do not need coding. If you need a working 2nd hand injector, I have some spare that you can have cheap

 

[amazighman]

W210 injectors do not need coding. If you need a working 2nd hand injector, I have some spare that you can have cheap

Thanks for the offer . although good things always come too late ,well at least for me, since i bought a new one from ebay. However i will be doing the other leaky injector next week and i will send you a private message if a replacement injector is needed

 

[classiccarzone]

To be honest it is quite bad, and thats why it was leaking, like i said the bottom of the washer and the surface of the head seem very good, that leads me to think it was blowing from top where that damage has occurred.

Do you think these injectors need coding like the one of the guys here said? I bought new one exactly same part number and with this age car i dont think it needs coding... Any ideas

You will not need to code it, though the jury is still out on some aspects.
pay particular attention to the head as it is unknown what the person who butchered the injector might have done to the head with a reamer, or similar; though the fact that the seal lasted for two years is a good omen.

Also if you experience resistance on an injector when taking it out do not put a lot of pressure on the rocker cover. You will have to remove everything to replace it.

 

[amazighman]

Did you guys do the second 90 degrees and no issues breaking the bolt or stripping the thread?

Hopefully i will get my replacement injectors soon but i im skeptical about the 2nd 90 degrees as there seems to be very little thread in the bottom of the hole plus the aluminum is fragile and its only a 6mm bolt for gods sake what a poor design to hold something thats under an immense pressure like an injector.
I know MB realized the weakness of their injector clamping system hence the 2nd 90 degrees but a lots of threads out there of people how stripped the threads or broke the bolt doing the 2nd 90 degrees.

Also somebody did some analysis and found that the 2nd 90 degrees has no extra benefits...
Any enlightenment?

 

[m80]

The last 90 being a bit stressful I went by feel and having left it to seetle after the 1st 90 I then added approx 60 - 70 degrees.
As doing one again if it leaks is easier than the efforts required after stripping a thread I favour a little less over a little more.

 

[amazighman]

The last 90 being a bit stressful I went by feel and having left it to seetle after the 1st 90 I then added approx 60 - 70 degrees.
As doing one again if it leaks is easier than the efforts required after stripping a thread I favour a little less over a little more.

Did you have any reoccurrence of the injectors leaking after the 90 degrees plus 70?

I do think the 2nd 90 degrees is a.bit harsh, 60 or 70 sounds bearable

 

[m80]

I've done 6 injectors but didn't have enough mileage afterwards to check,
but I was confident.

 

[amazighman]

I've done 6 injectors but didn't have enough mileage afterwards to check,
but I was confident.

Did you use Honda washers or MB ones?

 

[m80]

No, my kit was eBay whatever.
Stretch bolts and washers that to be honest, althuogh portreayed as MB, might well have been Fictiscous Entity knows what.

 

[classiccarzone]

I have always done the 90 + 90 without a problem. I am not going to tell you to do it in case "unlucky" is your middle name.

You have to be very careful when cleaning out the bolt hole. This is the crucial part as is the condition of the threads.

Also make sure that the clamp is undamaged and especially check the chamfered hole to make sure there is no burring on it as this can lead to friction in the first torque.
Make sure the torque wrench is directly over the bolt.

It is recommended that a new clamp is used.

There is enough room there and do not, like some people, try drilling it deeper as there is a water jacket very close to the bottom of the hole.

These bolts are engineered to stretch at a certain torque (torque to yield). They do not stretch at 7nm; they stretch at the two 90 degree turns.

If you are doing the job outside in this weather I would suggest that you warm the bolt with some hot water first.

I do not know if the manufacturing process of these bolts make them tolerant to cold but I do not take any chances.

I recently re did an injector in a 220 cdi. They guy who did it did not give it the second 90 degrees and guessed the first. It leaked in about 200 miles.

I redid it with the correct tightening sequence and used a Honda washer. It is still good after 5000 miles.

 

[amazighman]

I have always done the 90 + 90 without a problem. I am not going to tell you to do it in case "unlucky" is your middle name.

You have to be very careful when cleaning out the bolt hole. This is the crucial part as is the condition of the threads.

Also make sure that the clamp is undamaged and especially check the chamfered hole to make sure there is no burring on it as this can lead to friction in the first torque.
Make sure the torque wrench is directly over the bolt.

It is recommended that a new clamp is used.

There is enough room there and do not, like some people, try drilling it deeper as there is a water jacket very close to the bottom of the hole.

These bolts are engineered to stretch at a certain torque (torque to yield). They do not stretch at 7nm; they stretch at the two 90 degree turns.

If you are doing the job outside in this weather I would suggest that you warm the bolt with some hot water first.

I do not know if the manufacturing process of these bolts make them tolerant to cold but I do not take any chances.

I recently re did an injector in a 220 cdi. They guy who did it did not give it the second 90 degrees and guessed the first. It leaked in about 200 miles.

I redid it with the correct tightening sequence and used a Honda washer. It is still good after 5000 miles.

Morning
I am working in a garage but its kinda cold , I bought new clamps as well as new bolts and honda washers.

I tried to clean the bolt hole best i can, and i can see shiny metal in the bottom of it , i used a baby bottle teat brush which fits perfectly in that hole with some PVC pipe cleaning solvent for few times and then dried thoroughly with compressed air and kitchen towel rolled to size then run a new bolt up and down numerous times to clean the threads.

I guess its all down to the technique and strenth and condition of the threads and of course luck too.

What exactly is your method for tightening these bolts? I know you mentioned earlier but do you leave time between all stages 7nm then 90 then 90?

 

[bob6600]

Sounds like you have cleaned it sufficiently. The 90 deg + 90 deg SHOULD NOT strip the thread if it is properly cleaned. I guess the horror stories made me (and others) chicken out a bit. Mine sealed fine using MB washers and never leaked again for the 20k or so I had it. I did the 7nm on them all (I did all 6) and then 90 on each and then about 60-70 on each. No real time between them.

Good luck

 

[amazighman]

Thanks guys, just did the first injector and all ok.

However the other leaking injector was stuck even with a warm engine and wouldn't budge.

I had an hour of swearing using the ebay typo slide hammer injector puller which wouldn't fit under the injector untill i ground off some of the material on the clamp.

Took me an hour of hammering to get it out , it was moving like 1mm every bloody ten hammer strikes or so.... But it is out and it is worse than the other one i just repaired, the bolt hole was full of junk.

I will give it a good clean first and see what i have got to deal with

 

[amazighman]

Do you guys know if uou can buy spare parts for MB Bosch injector 0986435 064?

I need the cap that screws around the nozzle, i mean the sleeve that is around the nozzle which copper washer sits against.
Mine is worn hence the injector is blowing, i unscrewed the cap from one of the injectors and just thinking if i can buy this item separately.