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Couple of questions

Parrot of Doom

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
1,101
Location
Manchester, UK
Car
1997 R-reg W210 E300TD saloon
What oil do I need for my diff? (finally getting around to doing this)

What commonly available anti-freeze is suitable for my engine, and in what ratio?

Ta :)
 
Decent Ep80/90 preferrably synth.
A quality antifreeze to BSxxxx, mixed at 50%. Comma make excellent antifreeze, works better and lasts longer than most.
 
Euro car parts sell a fully synthetic Valvoline gear oil which doesn't have official approval. The specs are however extremely high (use the tdl version which is all they stock anyway). About £8 per litre compared to Mercedes own at £15. I've used it in my '01 SL320. As for antifreeze they carry stuff by Vaico which has Merc approval for about £5 for 1.5 litres. It's glysantin based but blue not green. You'll probably need 3 bottles as they are diluted 50/50 with water.

http://www.valvolineeurope.com/index.asp?pageid=a0a0bb829a02484b925addb149b702d5

http://www.vaico.de/gfx/fluid_vaico_standard_large.jpg

http://www.vaico.de/index_01.php?lang=en&page=home

I've also spoken to Castrol technical who have recommended Syntrax which is a semi synthetic gear oil once the car is out of warranty. Again this does not have official approval but Halfords stock it:

http://129.35.64.91/bpglis/lubtds.nsf/technicaldata/75B84452525F4CEF80256C4E005B81B2?OpenDocument

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=82915285&contentId=6009166

Mercedes WIS specifies a GL5 gear oil if that's any help either 85W-90 or SAE 90. This Valvoline oil has Merc approval but ECP don't stock it. It has a lower spec though than the TDL:

http://www.valvolineeurope.com/index.asp?pageid=232dd209a4014e6abebcc4d94375b9d0
 
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Thanks, went to Halfords on the offchance but they only had their own oil, and I'd rather have branded.

Annoyingly, it comes in 1 litre bottles, and the capacity of my diff is 1.1 litres? Would getting the remaining 0.1 litres of oil from the old oil do any harm, or should I buy 2 bottles?
 
Use two bottles.

I used Millers full synth for mine. Deffo made it quieter.
 
Parrot of Doom said:
Thanks, went to Halfords on the offchance but they only had their own oil, and I'd rather have branded.

Annoyingly, it comes in 1 litre bottles, and the capacity of my diff is 1.1 litres? Would getting the remaining 0.1 litres of oil from the old oil do any harm, or should I buy 2 bottles?

I wouldn't put Halfords oil in a lawnmower. It may be semi and full synth but it is only just upto the ratings as opposed to comfortably over them. It'll soon shear down to below the ratings.
 
Christ, you'd think it would be easy to find 85W/90 gear oil. Not so.

I'll have to pop into ECP tomorrow and see what they have in stock. They're only a couple of miles away.

I also managed to get 9 litres of engine oil from Makro today for £16 per 4.5 litre bottle. Castrol Magnatec 10W/40, not my first choice but it'll do for another 6000 miles or so. On reading hte service booklet, I discovered that the previous owner had used this oil for the life of the car, so it can't be bad as the engine is still sweet :)

I still have 2 litres of my existing 5W/40 left in the boot. I presume its ok to mix grades like this - I was going to empty that into the car, and then top up with the Castrol (after emptying the old stuff of course!)?
 
Nope, drawn a blank on 85W/90 anywhere local.

Is it necessary to use 85W? Isn't that just Hypoid for LSD diffs?

I can get hold of 80W/90 no problem, would that do instead? What are the specs I should be looking for?
 
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I'm looking at the Millers website, they have a good range but I'm clueless as to which I should get.

http://www.millersoils.net/ - click on Automotive and theres a 'gear oil' menu on the left.

And I just realised I misread dieselman's post as 85 instead of 80 :(
 
Ah well, found a shop a few miles away that sold the Millers TRX fully synthetic 75W/90, £10 a bottle. Will give it a go tomorrow weather allowing :)
 
Well that didn't hurt. Probably the easiest job you could possibly think of doing. 2 bolts, 14mm allen key, big ring spanner, lots of elbow grease.

Fill bolt off. Drain bolt off. Let drain (old fluid looked fairly clean). Drain bolt back on. Fill up with new fluid to brim. Fill bolt back on. Drive away.

Easier than changing the engine oil IMO. You don't even have to remove any plastic undertrays :) The hardest bit was cleaning the muck and rust from the bolts, so the allen key would go in :)
 

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