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Does anyone have a blind bearing slide hammer tool available?!

300CE

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Apr 25, 2010
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Location
Sidcup, Kent
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1990 300CE
This is a bit of a long shot, but do any of you lovely people have a blind bearing slide hammer tool they would be happy to lend me this weekend (within the south east london/north kent area)?!?!

I am in the process of replacing the transmission bearings on my xmax 250 scooter, but unfortunately do not have the relevant tool to remove the problem bearing and they are a lot of money for what effectively is something i am probably going to use once (me and a pal have tried lots of different ways to remove it this weekend all to no avail).

I have highlighted the bearing that has currently been replaced on the outer casing (this was done by a local shop), but the other matching bearing is in a much larger casing and remains attached to the scooter itself and would be a real pain to strip down the remainder of the bike to take this to the shop (although this may be the only other option).

Any other suggestions greatly received!

Many Thanks in advance!!

Justin.
 

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Cheers for the info as always Graeme (i probably didn't provide the best explanation!!), that's exactly it - Unfortunately, i've already tried using size 10 hook bolts with an attached length of metal and a large hammer end for the sliding action (went through 4 of them) but she just doesn't want to know.
 
All you need to do is pack the inside of the bearing with grease and get an appropriate width shaft and tap it into the bearing and the grease will force the bearing out hydraulically.

Simples :)
 
Cheers Spike, we did think of this as an option but thought the grease may push through any gaps, however, it looks like it could deffo be worth a try as a final resort.
 
What you could do is mix up a little body filler or similar, work it into the bearing race/balls making sure you leave the bearing centre clear.

Once its hardened, as already suggested, fill the bore with grease, using a snug fitting round shaft, place the shaft into the bore and firmly wack it with a hammer. If the engine casing looks delicate, supporting it well, possibly also wrapping it in old towels would be a consideration to protect the casing from fracturing. All depends really how 'hands on' you are with the tools generally.
 
Lol I was expecting a thread where someone was looking for "the long rest", "striped paint" or "left handed hammer" ;p

K
 
Thanks again for all the info and advice chaps, it's much appreciated! After further searching, I think i may have found an alternative on the bay of e which is reasonably priced (the bearing gap is 17mm, so should be fit fine):

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
 
Thanks again for all the info and advice chaps, it's much appreciated! After further searching, I think i may have found an alternative on the bay of e which is reasonably priced (the bearing gap is 17mm, so should be fit fine):

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace


Looks like a handy tool that.......
 
Hi Woody, the scoot is currently at my mates garage and he has a drill and taps.

For future use, I use this method for all sorts of things. Take a flat piece of steel, cut it to length (slightly longer than the width of centre hole) drill and tap it (in a commonly available bolt size)insert into centre of bearing length ways (it will then lay flat at the base of bearing)drill another hole (larger than the bolt size) in another piece of metal. Place a metal tube/socket, anything larger in diameter than the bearing over the bearing. place the metal bar over the tube, screw the bolt into the threaded bar at the bottom and tighten, job done. Sorry about the long winded instructions, simple to explain in person rather than being written. Depending on the space at the rear of the bearing keep adding washers to prevent the bolt cracking the case. Hope this helps.
 
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For future use, I use this method for all sorts of things. Take a flat piece of steel, cut it to length (slightly longer than the width of centre hole) drill and tap it (in a commonly available bolt size)insert into centre of bearing length ways (it will then lay flat at the base of bearing)drill another hole (larger than the bolt size) in another piece of metal. Place a metal tube/socket, anything larger in diameter than the bearing over the bearing. place the metal bar over the tube, screw the bolt into the threaded bar at the bottom and tighten, job done. Sorry about the long winded instructions, simple to explain in person rather than being written. Depending on the space at the rear of the bearing keep adding washers to prevent the bolt cracking the case. Hope this helps.

Many Thanks for the info Woody, no need to apologise for the explanation, i understand where your coming from! It's certainly another great idea. I'm going to go for this slide hammer tool as it's not to far from me and i'm hoping i'll be able to get it for the weekend. I'll provide an update as to how i get on.
 
Thought i'd provide a quick update on this thread - the slide hammer tool purchased from eBay proved to be worth it's weight in gold and after applying some heat around the casing, the bearing just popped out!

Transmission put back together and it should now last another 20k miles. Will drop the fluid out this evening and refill just to rid the casing of any particles from the new bearings.

Thanks again for all the advice.
 

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