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e320 cdi fueling problem

cheers mate. I have posted the results star gave me from the rail pressure. I think it was point towards the high pressure pump. just don't want to spend that sort of money for it not to fix my problem.

I have notice air bubbles in that clear pipe, from filter to the high pressure pump when uping the revs. Is this normal?

I have had a quick look at the pipes under the car.There are loads because it is the estate (sls). But think ive tracked the fuel lines. They look a little rusty but wouldnt say there were bad. It looks like it would be a real pain if the lines need to be replaced :(
 
blitz-diesel said:
Hi. Thanks for the replys.:thumb: Managed to connect the star again today.
Still haven't got the pipe to test the fuel delivery pump. Also haven't got a injector tester, so wasn't able to carry out fuel leak quantity of injectors.

But i did do a smooth engine test.

Im i right in thinking this is ok ?

Also i checked components of high pressure control circuit.
Rail pressure sensor offset test.

Current voltage is 0.513v
Pressure corresponding to the voltage is 5 bar.

Y74 pressure control valve test.
Coolant temp 40c
Engine speed 708 1/min
Rail pressure 284 BAR

I take it these are ok ? I'm a bit confused about the next one.

Rail pressure variation test

The star says "a fault will occur if the limit value 20 is exceeded at least 3 times"
Mine looks as if it hits the limit 4 times. So i selected yes. The star say to change the high pressure pump.

So do you think i still need to check the injectors?
Thanks Tom

Just seen this again.

I would say that the HP pump is the cause of your fault.

If it was in my workshop I would plug it in while road testing it to check the pressures under load.
 
So what about the bubble in that clear pipe when reving? or is that normal
 
No it's not. You may also have an air leak from the clear fuel pipes too.
 
Ok thanks for the reply. Silly question time. If there is a leak, would that cause the problem? the car cutting out.
 
how difficult is it to replace the pump? or is it as simple as to just unbolt it and replace.

had a quick look for a guide. but no luck
 
how difficult is it to replace the pump? or is it as simple as to just unbolt it and replace.

had a quick look for a guide. but no luck

Just finished the job yesterday in my W210. I changed seals inside the pump (one piston unit), and also o-rings of feed pump income and shut down valve (I'm not sure do you have similar hp-pump than in 270CDI?). I suggest to try change those first (because bubbles in those lines), no need to remove the pump.

First you need to remove the cooling fan. Rather easy if just electric fan. Remove Clips on top of the rad, unplug the motor and take fan+housing away.

Now you'll have enough space to work with fuel lines, but it may be good to remove poly-v belt also. Easy job with T55 torx, socket is under tensioner pulley.

In my pump, feed line pipe and shut down valve pipe are under bracket which can be released with one torx bolt. After that pipes can be drawn out (2 clips are holding pipes under the pump), and o-rings can be changed. Shut down valve is needed to decoupled (2 torx bolts) and maybe oil stick pipe support too.

If you need to replace the pump too, Just open and detach the high pressure line, pump is attached with 3 torx. Done.

IF you want try to change the inner sealings of the pump, I can give some extra advices then...

Factory repaired pump was 600€, sealing set 25€... gave a good motivation to try DIY repair (diesel garages didn't want to repair the pump, I asked two locations).
 
nice one for the write up ;)
the same place I took the injector to said he can test it for £80 and rebuild up to £400. had a look on the internet. found the pump for £426 from gsf (new). they give me £ 156 if I send them my old one. so £ 270 for a new one
 
I can get you a re-furbished pump for £250 if you need one IIRC

Pm me your reg and I will price it up. £400 is far too much!

That's a cost price too, just incase anyone thought different.
 
Ok thanks for the reply. Silly question time. If there is a leak, would that cause the problem? the car cutting out.

Fuel leak yes.

Air leak into pipe, no.

I would disagree, here.

If there is sufficient air being drawn in there will be a lack of fuel and the pressure will drop dramatically.

Until the air leak is sorted you can't move forwards with this.
 
thank you for the instructions, and cheers for the offer on the pump. already ordered from gsf. also ordered a new pipe from Mercedes.

feeling a bit of pressure because I need the car to go to a rally next weekend. would of loved to rebuild my one for price and experience. just running out of time. fingers crossed this combo works

thanks again lads ;)
 
alright. I'm going to attack the car to day. I'm changing the pipe first, clear fault codes and take it for a drive. if still cutting out change the pump.

what's the best way to bleed the system after changing the pipe? leave it running for 10mins ?
 
It will bleed automatically itself, actually it is not starting before bleeding has been done (same reason than which cause it cut out; air in the system --> pressure drop). It will require several starting attempts after pipe change, mine took 5-6 self start sequence after the pump repair.
 
just took it for a drive after changing the pipe. no change. still cutting out. and still getting some bubbles when revving. not as much but still there.

new pump has arrived. giving to had a go at replacing it now
 
hi pal when you say cutting out .dose it cut out while idioling .or when your on a run with car .or is it a set amount of rpms..as ive a e320 cdi w210.026 .and is going into limp mode when engines near on up to temputer ( tryed alsorts .yet just says low boost pressure fault)
 
hi. the last Biltmore is giving me trouble. it's the one at the bottom of the pump. it looks like the belt is going to have come off. I can't see how to loosening the belt
 
Biltmore??? sorry that ment to be BOLT. shouldn't type with gloves on
 

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