E320 starts then stalls??????

[Mercsys]

Hi I have recently developed a stalling problem and would value some input on…
I a have a 2000, S210, E320 CDI, OM613 with 100K on it, after a run to Carlisle (350 miles) the day before with torrential rain on the way, the next morning after a normal start and a short run of a mile and a few hours standing, the engine starts in 2-3 seconds as usual then stalls after 1 second of running, then crank for 10 seconds, wait ~5seconds, then crank 5 seconds and starts…
The car was not stone cold and was standing quite steeply nose up on a slope so I thought perhaps some air in the fuel system, or fuel draining back to the tank…
No reported problems, full power, drive back to London (350 m), torrential rain, no problems 40.x MPG as usual.
This morning starts 2-3 sec as usual then stalls after a second, crank till time out ~10 seconds, wait ~10 sec, crank and starts ~5 sec. Stone cold, sitting nose down on the drive as usual? Driving to work full power no warnings. Battery is good, just done engine, trans oils + filters.

I suspect the last few services were not done properly looking at the state of filters and oil after the supposed service just a few k ago.

Any input welcome as I have nothing else to go on, could it be filters, water in the fuel???

 

[dulayj]

Similar problem reported on Volvo(d5) forum -has your fuel filter been changed?

 

[BlackC55]

It will be either a blocked fuel filter, injectors leaking off or air in the fuel lines.

 

[Mercsys]

It will be either a blocked fuel filter, injectors leaking off or air in the fuel lines.

…injectors leaking off = rough running, lumpy idling, poor MPG??? Test how?
…air in the fuel lines = air in the return line to tank, any suspects??? Pump perhaps?

New filter tomorrow. I think it would have stalled tonight after work if i hadn't piped the gas just after starting.

 

[Mercsys]

It took several start attempts this morning.

okay, I've dumped the remains of the fuel from the tank, about 3L it looked okay no sign of water. I've now replaced the fuel filter. The old one looked soso, filling the old filter with fuel it runs out under gravity, more than a dribble but not much. So Ill see tomorrow morning...

 

[BlackC55]

Do a google search for diesel leak off test.

The air in the fuel lines is caused by shrinking seals on the clear fuel pipes at the engine end.

 

[Mercsys]

Okay so the new fuel filter seems to have fixed the starting difficulties. But it seems that the cranking is a little longer than it used to be, perhaps a second or two longer. Also the MPG seems to have improved around town by perhaps 2 MPG.

I have also done a DIY leak off test, It seem that I have 2 okay, 2 so-so and 2 knackered injectors.

I have a rough account mostly pics.
I have had to zip up the PDF to get it under the 100K upload limit.

 

[Mercsys]

Olly called it 100% as usual!!

Changed the flexible hoses downstream of the fuel filter (3 off). Start stalling problems all gone.

You will need the hoses, 3 in my case and the 2 small plastic clips that will snap on removal! You are kidding yourself if you think you will get away with only replacing on or two, you will be back.

Fan cowl out (2 spring clips at top), it slips in front of the fan, then protect the back of the rad with a sheet of stiff cardboard or be very careful.

Remove the fan, (3 cap screws)

Photograph the belt path!

Remove the polly belt, 17mm ring spanner to defeat the spring tensioner then lock back with a 4mm pin 50mm+ long should be long enough. Careful of the steering pump pulley it think they are made of fine bone china, they are very fragile though not expensive.

Photograph the hose paths under the stat, under the HP pump...

Once you start opening the diesel system exercise the utmost cleanliness, any crud getting into these hoses is going through your HP pump and probably your injectors!!!

Work on the hoses one at a time, I cut up the bag the hoses came in and taped small bag covers to the hose ends until the new hose was routed and ready to terminate.

You will need to remove a few injector lines to get the rail return hose into place, 20Nm torque to refit them.

The two clips under the HP pump are easy to unclip if you have the replacements, as an example! The snap join is on the bottom.

I reused one of the release clips from the old hose to release one hoses from under the HP pump.


Once the hoses are in and the belt is back on and the tensioner is released.

Start up, it will take a few attempts. With a torch have a good look at the hoses for leeks and the routing around the belt, no rubbing... Is the belt in all the correct vees... Run for long enough to see any leeks but not too long as you need to get the fan back on ... a hot engine is not fun to work on.

Fan back in.

Rad protection out.

Fan cowl back in.

Beer...

Considerations.

Lots of paper towels for the diesel.
A good charge in the battery for the restart.
A cool/cold engine.


J