Hi, recently bought a used GLC 250D from a main dealer (late 2017 model but with only 6000 miles it's like a brand new car
) and am really pleased with it save for one irritating thing.....
The stop-start system does not seem to be working as it should....operation has been somewhat erratic (!!) since purchase a few weeks ago
e.g.
Yesterday I drove about 8 miles - it did not operate once and the dash light was yellow. I parked up and went into a shop, about 15 mins later I drove home and from start the dash light was green all the way with S/S operating as it should.
Some 4 hours later (with the engine still amazingly close to operating temperature!) I drove about 18 miles and the light was yellow with no S/S operation all the way, 1/2 hour later I drove home and it worked initially (green light) but after about 10 mins went yellow again and remained so for the rest of the journey.
Today I drove about 10 miles......after 1/2 mile the temp gauge showed 60 deg C (must say it warms up impressively quickly), the S/S light went green and remained so for the whole journey, S/S worked as it should.
Came out of the shop after may be 10 mins, started the car and the light was yellow.......and remained so for the whole journey home .....with, of course no stop start......
I appreciate there are many factors that govern it's operation but the air-con had very little load (o/s temp 21, inside set at 20 and the blower fan was barely running, I tried turning off the air-con just in case but it made no difference
So, the engine is at operating temp, there is no condensation or humidity present in the car, the battery is presumably fully charged by now .............and as the engine starts within 1/2 sec, a few starts are hardly going top drain the battery
None of my previous cars (including a 2012 E-class 250D) have suffered this problem and I am really disappointed that such a new car from such a prestige marque is doing so, the dealer has been helpful and suggested the battery may not have been fully charged after sitting in their sales yard so they took the car back to charge the battery fully....after which it worked for a day
I have also trickle charged the battery for 2 days at 14.5V on a stabilised and regulated lab. class power supply and the next day it worked as it should, the day after it didn't.
The (engine running voltage) at the battery is around 14.6 to 14.8 which to ME seems rather high, even after fully charging it myself - I would have expected a lower voltage with a fully charged battery.
Ideas and suggestions welcomed, unlike some people on the forum I WOULD like this to work and cut the engine whenever possible.,...I do after all always have the option of turning it off !thanks
