I didnt see a toothed ring, mine must be the same setup as yours.Yes i did tap the seal in with a copper head hammer with a thin block of wood over the seal.I have one spare seal as one of the bearing kits came with two seals.I will change seals on both sides before i pay for the star diagnostics.Do you or anyone know if you can buy the wheel bearing seal without buying the whole kit?
There is no need for star diagnostics, (if this is the problem). I done the same as you, tapping in the seals with wood and a mallet and went through a week of hell trying to find out what I done wrong, (cruise control was also lost) until television sent me the schematics of the set up.
MB Glasgow, Preston and Blackpool disagreed with me, but we proved them wrong.
If you do not have access to a press or proper pulling tool, here is how to fit the new seals, and it does work.
1. Buy a length of threaded screw rod, nuts and appropriate repair washers from B&Q.
2. Cut to size of what you will need. (longer than the hub dia)
3. You will need to cut thin guage steel/flat bar to cover the dia of the new hub seal for pulling and drill to accept the screw rod. Plus use the old inner race track to cover the seal dia.
4. Use a CD as a washer between your steel plate and new seal when pulling in the seals. (CD hole in the centre is perfect Dia for the screw rod)
5. Pull in slowly. I used the wife to hold the spanner and the hub on the bottom nut, while I ran in the top nut, seal side, while constantly monitoring the push in of the seal.
6. Make sure the seal bottoms in the hub correctly, or the distance between the seal and sensor may be too narrow.
Again, all of this only applies if your set up is the same as mine.
Yes, you can buy the seal seperately. I did from Inchcape. Approx £3.50 each. I have the P/N somewhere. Let me look.