First time using a DA

hy-cupcakes

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Joined
Jul 24, 2016
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30
Car
C250cdi Sport
Good job on that, looks great !
 

AW8

Active Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
285
Car
S212 E220CDI Blue Efficiency SE Edition 125 Estate (7G+Auto - 2011)
Merc clearcoat hard as nails.

Lee seems to knows his stuff & far more into detailing than me.

I have a Meguiars G220 DA but will likely upgrade to something more purposeful at some point....maybe a DAS pro 6 or a rotary...plus suitable pads & plate(s).

On BMW & Merc clear coats I have had to use megs burgundy pad and Megs 105 initially. I then progress to softer compounds and pads. Menzerna products supposed to be good for tough German clear coats...never used them myself.

I am aware some get great results using lots of products & going through lots of stages. Not doubting the benefits of same BUT I keep things fairly simple both for time & also because I cant justify spending out on loads of different products. I dont use a lance, foam do contactless washing or use ceramic coatings...I know the results of a thorough job can be spectacular & better than what I achieve.

For machine detail correction I have prior washed with diluted Tesco APC or daisy then rinsed with hose prior to lubed clay and then straight to machine use. (Only used for removing muck, film and old paint treatment wax or other products...NEVER for a normal wash !)

You speak of excess dust....its hard to avoid BUT I use a water spray bottle to keep pad slightly damp & moist. This reduces dusting. Also the tougher pad & compounds combos can cause more dust than softer pads & softer pads which have more of a lube composition. I have used poor ones that cost more than branded items.

Buffing is important..Once I have rubbed off dried polish or wax I go over again with a cleaner soft MF cloth...maybe with a little water spray or detailer of choice - excess dry buffing with a coarse or soiled MF can spoil your work ...........I use a product called citrus bling as it is versatile and can be diluted depending on use and need. I work, inspect & revisit panels as required.

How does one eat an elephant. ?.......One piece at a time. set small goals - today i will correct & seal mt roof or boot, bonnet etc,


Using a decent halogen or other lamp in a garage can help. Outdoor or indoor working room temp & humidity can also be factors.....Sometimes tried & tested products just don't seem to want to play.

Before you dismiss my post as clumsy or half hearted. ... I have seen motor trade folk crudely dunking end of a machine & pad into a bucket of water before (rotary) mopping as they call it. A pre-soaked pad can reduce dust & reduce risk of heat damage by an amateur leaving compound splash in shuts & everywhere. I have seen an Aston Martin in the trade ruined by clumsy attempt at bucket and mop correction, trail marks holograms etc etc.......(despite my simple routine I consider myself more skilled than that).

I believe I have found my balance......I aim to have a daily driver that looks 90% for 90% of the time. I have managed 80-90% correction on German clear coats using my simple approach. I also keep my car clean. It gets a light dust off & spray/wipe regularly in between washes. in good weather that is usually daily when parked outside.

I would rather spend 10-15 mins a day and have a car that looks clean most days than spend 4 or 5 hours every Sunday only to drive a dirty car for rest of week or feel depressed at 1st sign of dust on my car .....I also have other things I like or need to to do with my time....I respect others have own preferences & routines for various reasons.

I don't use lots of fancy LSP products....just Collinite 476 maybe followed with a squirt & wipe of aforementioned Citrus Bling.

You have more kit than me most likely. I have invested more time, practice & patience, (than money) ,to mostly be able to get acceptable, (to me), results.

Your car & initial results look good for 1st attempt. Don't expect to safely remove all deep RDS....look for improvement only.....especially if scratches have gone through the base coat. I have spent half a day on a BMW bonnet before with a DA & soft pads/gentle compounds to get an acceptable (to me),result.

Perhaps some of my ramblings may help...I have spent many hours on detailing forums over the years & decided what works for me. We are all different.

Apologies if my simplistic approach causes purists or those with more kit, methods or commitment to shudder....for me its about individuals being happy with results ;) :)
 
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AW8

Active Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
285
Car
S212 E220CDI Blue Efficiency SE Edition 125 Estate (7G+Auto - 2011)
Footnote , ( too late to edit above).

Mindful I mentioned Megs burgundy & 105. Harsher compound & pad combos with a machine including a DA can cause unpleasant results, you might have success on RDS but overall finish may be flawed. I have had to redo work with softer combos before.

I have never used a wool pad & have heard horror stories...hence I did NOT suggest same.

If in doubt walk way have a brew and return to fight later or even on another day.

Apologies to you or others if I am stating the obvious or my methods not deemed suitable.
 
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