Full synthetic oil - 6years old/sealed bottle - would you use it?

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The problem of water in engine oil via 'porous' containers in storage is nothing in comparison to the water that finds its way to the oil from combustion. This water will be flashed off once the oil is up to temperature and ran at that temperature for long enough but there are those who start and run their engines without realising that regime that are literally pouring water into their oil.

To witness someone start their car to drive it out of their garage, wash (sorry, detail) it then start it up again to drive back into the garage believing they are 'looking after' their car makes me shudder. You will never pour oil into an engine via the filler cap. It will always be by stupidly short run periods.
 
To witness someone start their car to drive it out of their garage, wash (sorry, detail) it then start it up again to drive back into the garage believing they are 'looking after' their car makes me shudder.

I knew a man that installed an electric winch in his garage for this very reason. Rolled it out and winched it back in. People laughed at him but his logic was sound. I'm going into town tomorrow and will wash the car either before I go or immediately on return.

How long would you say to run the engine for to avoid ?

However long it takes for the coolant temperature to reach normal and then a minimum 50% further as oil temperature always lags behind coolant temperature. One of the reasons my annual miles are so low is I refuse to use the car for short trips. I could count on one hand how often the car has been used for less than 9 miles which is the round trip into town.
 
How long would you say to run the engine for to avoid ?
How long is a piece of string? To flash of water from one cold start the oil would have to be to operating temp (typically twice the miles it takes for coolant to get there) then however long after that to actually flash it off which would depend on how much got into the oil and will vary with fuel used LPG being the worst, diesel the best.
It's hard to totally avoid but with a bit of planning (as per 190's post) and avoiding needless cold start-ups, the amount of water entering the oil can be reduced. The inside of the filler cap is probably the biggest clue to how right or wrong anyone is getting it.
 
t's hard to totally avoid but with a bit of planning (as per 190's post) and avoiding needless cold start-ups, the amount of water entering the oil can be reduced. The inside of the filler cap is probably the biggest clue to how right or wrong anyone is getting it.

For the short journeys as in commuting to work I used my air cooled motorcycle which warmed up fast although oil temperature was a problem in the winter. Mayonnaise would have formed under the filler cap if it were not for the simple expedient of removing the cap/dipstick in the garage when I got home. If I did that after every winter ride there was no mayonnaise and if I didn't, there was. Just letting the sump breath overnight was enough for the warm oil to evaporate off any water present. Completely unpractical for a car but it goes to show that oil doesn't have to be 100 Deg C to rid itself of water. The oil didn't get near hot enough in the winter but I did what I could to help. Here's a picture with it's oil warmers fitted. I would get mayonnaise inside the rocker covers without these fitted.

Oil_Warmer.jpg
 
How long is a piece of string? To flash of water from one cold start the oil would have to be to operating temp (typically twice the miles it takes for coolant to get there) then however long after that to actually flash it off which would depend on how much got into the oil and will vary with fuel used LPG being the worst, diesel the best.
It's hard to totally avoid but with a bit of planning (as per 190's post) and avoiding needless cold start-ups, the amount of water entering the oil can be reduced. The inside of the filler cap is probably the biggest clue to how right or wrong anyone is getting it.
Additionally, you could if you wanted to use oil analysis to see if water in your oil was a feature. The obvious check for water present and, as the water will tend towards acidity, the TBN. Even if no water was present, a high TBN would suggest that it frequently was - or that the motor is suffering excessive blow-by. Which would manifest itself in other forms.
No one will of course. Cleaning the inside of tail pipes with cotton buds is so much more important - the sign that a car really has been cared for.
 
I would have no hesitation in using it. Any moisture will be a hell of a lot less than what is already in your engine.
 
A few weeks ago I would have said "old oil...just use it!", but after seeing this thread by a Lotus owner about apparent degradation I would now be rather wary.
 
A few weeks ago I would have said "old oil...just use it!", but after seeing this thread by a Lotus owner about apparent degradation I would now be rather wary.
Interesting - and worrying!
It is known - but not accepted - that synthetics lack 'solubility' which makes additive packages difficult to add and be retained.
 

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