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Garage snaped injector bolt

So I'm not the only one thinking the gasket not fitted right and he's trying to charge it as another job?
 
Does anyone know the internal lay out under the valve cover?
Im thinking I can prove the gaskets slipped if I wait till it's dark, shine and really bright torch in the oil filler cap and see if I can see any light at the gap in the gasket!
Would that work ?
Also is it normal to have pressure in there while running?
 
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My general knowledge says that you only get pressure buildup inside the camshaft covers if a vacuum hose or breather are blocked.
 
He was saying something about a pressure relief valve inside or part of the valve cover that might be blocked / faulty! If this is a thing are they replaceable or is it a new cover?
Cos the covers look quite expensive!
 
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The possibility that excess crankcase pressure (there's more there than I'd expect) blew out the gasket cannot be excluded. If that is the case then without remedying the cause it will happen again. It could be that the gasket was just badly fitted but without knowing what to expect in the way of crankcase pressure it's too much of a jump for me to blame it on that alone.
 
As above - if by 'pressing relief valve' he meant the crankcase ventilation breather, then yes, if this get blocked, the camshafts cover gasket can leak.
 
There will I expect be a one-way valve to prevent over-pressurisation of the crankcase during conditions of turbo boosting. No boost at idle though... That said, maybe it blew during boosted driving. Still looks like a lot of pressure for an idling engine.
 
Wouldn't too much pressure push the gasket out?

As I'm looking at it, the gasket is inside the cover. My immediate thought is incorrect fitting, allowing the gasket to 'flop' to the incorrect position.

Could a pressure issue suck the gasket out of position into the valve area?
 
Morning guys
When tightening the injector bolts do you torque then an extra 90° and then another 90°? Or do you do a heat cycle in between?
Am I correct at 7nm for a 2009 c220?
Cheers
Im going back today and gona tell him what I want doing because I think he rushed it last time!
 
Morning guys so I took it back and had it redone and he insisted the complete cam cover needed replacing because the breather valve had stuck open!
At this point id had some bad family news and couldn't be ****d arguing with him so I said just do whatever it takes to fix it!
(I'll add at this point on the drive to the garage there was so much oil on the front of the engine the serpentine belt jumped off! So he replaced that, Charged me for it too!)
Anyway another £220 and it finally seams fixed!
However every now and then, when starting the engine or shuting it down I can hear the belt chirp! Ive had the engine jet washed to clean all the oil off thinking there might be some oil on the pulleys and it hasn't helped!
Now a few days later the battery warning light randomly comes on! but when I shut it off it clears and all is fine for a bit!
Is it possible the belt tentioner is week now or has the jet wash upset the alternator?
I've also noticed the power steering chirps at full lock!
Is the tensioner adjustable or are they preset? I ask because the "chirp" has only appeared after the belt was replaced so thinking he might not have tightened it enough?
 
Also what voltage should there be at the obd port because torque is only reading 10volts with the engine running.
Screenshot_20250315_163737_Torque.jpg

Also while I had torque plugged in i found a pending fault. Anyone know what this could be?
Screenshot_20250315_162601_Torque.jpg
 
Morning guys so I took it back and had it redone and he insisted the complete cam cover needed replacing because the breather valve had stuck open!
At this point id had some bad family news and couldn't be ****d arguing with him so I said just do whatever it takes to fix it!
(I'll add at this point on the drive to the garage there was so much oil on the front of the engine the serpentine belt jumped off! So he replaced that, Charged me for it too!)
Anyway another £220 and it finally seams fixed!
However every now and then, when starting the engine or shuting it down I can hear the belt chirp! Ive had the engine jet washed to clean all the oil off thinking there might be some oil on the pulleys and it hasn't helped!
Now a few days later the battery warning light randomly comes on! but when I shut it off it clears and all is fine for a bit!
Is it possible the belt tentioner is week now or has the jet wash upset the alternator?
I've also noticed the power steering chirps at full lock!
Is the tensioner adjustable or are they preset? I ask because the "chirp" has only appeared after the belt was replaced so thinking he might not have tightened it enough?
The belt tensioner is not adjustable and, at 9.9 volts with the engine running, I fear you’ve fried your alternator. Depending on the alternator, you may get away with replacing the regulator and brushes. Have you confirmed 9.9v through the vehicle’s in-built display?
 
The belt tensioner is not adjustable and, at 9.9 volts with the engine running, I fear you’ve fried your alternator. Depending on the alternator, you may get away with replacing the regulator and brushes. Have you confirmed 9.9v through the vehicle’s in-built display?
Didn't know you could.
 
You should check the alternator to see if it has free travel.
That'll mean the bellt removing from it, but not off totally. And a then the same 17mm star socket used to remove, on the tensioner to feel if it's free. They can seize.
Tbh while at it, I would spin the pullies and also feel for lateral play with belt off.

As you see Torque can measure at 2 points, and is gnereally .3 volts difference. But hi reading should be around 14.7 volts (depending on battery type)
 
Wouldn’t you see the voltage fluctuate in that case?
The ‘classic’ symptom of a charging belt slipping is that the charge current will drop when revving up and then ‘catch up’.
Easy to test if you have an ammeter in circuit, not so obvious if measuring with a voltmeter.
Another symptom is that the belt may squeal under electrical load - so just after starting, or if you put headlights on main beam, heated rear window, heater blower, seat heaters etc.
 
So i tempted fate by asking the question!
Just been out and the starter sounded like it struggled to start (low battery)
Then about a mile in all kind of nightmare messages started popping up on the display!
Pulled over shut it down went to restart it and dead! Starter just clicked!
Got my mate to come jump start me, fired straight up on the jump leads like nothing wrong. but by the time I'd put the bonnets down and leads back in the boot all the nightmare messages were back and the nothing worked! Radio off, electric windows won't move even the windscreen wipers and speedometer were none responsive!
Tried to drive it home and even the gears won't change stuck in 1st!
Anyway got it home put the battery charger on and it was reading 8% charged. Let it charge for a bit and just been out it's now 38% charged and the car start drives ect.. like nothing wrong!
Would a slipping belt cause this or is the alternator fubar?
 
alternator fubar?
As suggested the regulator is a reasonable check.
 

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