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Getting into detailing - is this a good regimen?

Maurauth

Active Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
216
Location
Hampshire
Car
2016 BMW M4 Convertible
I've always been lazy and had my car washed for me on the cheap but have decided to invest in some detailing kit and have done a bit of research, this is what I'm planning on doing tomorrow if the weather holds up as I've got some holiday from work and want to try and get rid/cover up the horrendous swirl marks on my new SLK.

This is my plan, any feedback on order etc would be great!

1. Rinse carefully.
2. AG shampoo, 2 bucket method with quality mit.
3. Dry with quality megs towel.
4. Use AG HD cleaner to get rid of old wax etc
5. AG clay bar kit
6. Rinse and wash again.
7. AG SRP 2 or 3 coats, up to 4 or 5 on major swirl marked areas.
8. AG EGP.
9. AG HD Wax, maybe 2 coats?

Of course I'd do wheels first and then top to bottom of car with a different wash mit for everything below knee height.

Does that sound good for a nice starter clean that can just be maintained for a few months before repeating?

Have I missed anything? Is this the best way to get swirls out of a black car? Should I just keep building up the SRP to fill the swirls? Is EGP followed by HD wax overkill or worth it for a good deep clean every 3-6 months?
 
Unless you enjoy it as a hobby, your time and material cost to keep repeating that make a Gtechniq treatment good value for money.

Add a DI vessel and the process is complete (plus no drying towels to drag across the car).

No swirls either:

Gtechniq Smart Surface Science |
 
I've already picked up most of the bits I need and am pretty sure that the HD Wax and Clay Bar kits being the most expensive should last me at least a year.

I've also picked up the G-techniq interior stuff already.

I was planning on having a go at hand polishing out the swirls or at least seeing how the above covers them up. If that failed to make much of a difference I was going to think about getting them machine polished out by a local detailer.

I might get a quote and see how it compares to having it machine polished and then followed up with g-techniq sealants then.
 
I'd definitely consider the DI vessel - they remove the drying process completely and work very well.
 
In my opinion your car deserves to be swirl free! have it professionally corrected and sealed then take more care when washing. But beware detailing can be a slippery slope....before you know it you dont have time to drive it!:crazy:

Tony
 
What is a DI vessel? I googled it but can't seem to find anything informative about car care?
 
What is a DI vessel? I googled it but can't seem to find anything informative about car care?

Basically a water filter - taking water from your mains and filtering it to produce purified/deionized water (which doesn't mark the paintwork at all).

So you'd use the DI Vessel to rinse off the car after the wash, without a requirement to dry.

I'm no pro at this, but it has been something that is of interest - although I don't think it would be sufficient enough in my area where the water is over 300ppm. I think I would require the filtering process for the full washing and rinsing stage of the car.

The tanks themselves are pretty pricey & you need to change the resin inside, which also isn't cheap - but probably worth it in the end.

DAQUA - Suppliers of DI Vessels - Complete and Filled with Resin
 
I'll def look into one of those, bit short of funds at the moment though as the Piecha exhaust system was €1300!
 
Basically a water filter - taking water from your mains and filtering it to produce purified/deionized water (which doesn't mark the paintwork at all).

So you'd use the DI Vessel to rinse off the car after the wash, without a requirement to dry.

I'm no pro at this, but it has been something that is of interest - although I don't think it would be sufficient enough in my area where the water is over 300ppm. I think I would require the filtering process for the full washing and rinsing stage of the car.

The tanks themselves are pretty pricey & you need to change the resin inside, which also isn't cheap - but probably worth it in the end.

DAQUA - Suppliers of DI Vessels - Complete and Filled with Resin

The water in my area ranges from 314-326tds (total dissolved solids, I think it stands for) which is very hard water and the Daqua unit copes well. I have just changed the resin for the first time…maybe six months use before the readings start to rise but acceptable up to about 25-30 TDS, I found. I use it at every stage now as it makes washing a leisurely affair, even on hot days.
 
Poorboys Blackhole is a good product for black paintwork to mask the swirls, use after the SRP , as it's a glaze you will need to get some wax on top of it to get the best from it . Used it on my black Beemer with good results .
 
I had heard someone mention that Blackhole stuff before. I'll pick up a pot next week when I redo as I think I must have cocked something up at some point, plus it started raining a bit when I was polishing, there's bloody water marks and some patches of some sort of residue on the car that won't shift...

Will post pics in a bit to explain.
 
Loads of good advice above, go over to detailing world forum as good stuff over there also.

Watch the weather and DONT wash or polish in the sunshine, all of your good work will be a complete waste of time....if you have to then focus solely on one panel at a time or better still create or find some shade.

Poorboys BH if used finely is great stuff and can be used by hand with good results.

PB/BH has fillers and for me is a mixed polish /sealer with little cutting capability - which is good.

Personally I would use this to mask swirls possibly even applying a wax over but I wouldn't be trying to use a compound by hand to remove the swirls. If this is your aim get yourself a OP and do the job properly, you will smile at the result after.

For polishing tips go over to You tube and look up junkman and his videos....you will get much more sound advice than most places.

ATB
R
 
The water in my area ranges from 314-326tds (total dissolved solids, I think it stands for) which is very hard water and the Daqua unit copes well. I have just changed the resin for the first time…maybe six months use before the readings start to rise but acceptable up to about 25-30 TDS, I found. I use it at every stage now as it makes washing a leisurely affair, even on hot days.
Sold it to me now Giant. Mind me asking what sort of price you paid for the daqua + resin? The unit itself is £60 right? I'd be happy if it lasts 6 months tbh
 
Sold it to me now Giant. Mind me asking what sort of price you paid for the daqua + resin? The unit itself is £60 right? I'd be happy if it lasts 6 months tbh

I bought the 11litre vessel complete with MB115 resin plus a refill bag.

This is the page:-http://www.daqua.co.uk/divessels.htm

and this is the ad:-

"11 Litre DI Vessel Complete (8"x17") Filled With Resin

This is the ideal size DI Vessel if you are filling your tank direct from tap pressure. Many suppliers sell their customers small DI Vessels but fail to advise them that volume versus flow rate is key to resin performance. TDS levels can rise when the flow rate is too fast for the volume of resin. To avoid this happening completely we recommend that you only use a di vessel 11L or above.
This comes filled with approx. 10.5l of Tulsion Mixed Bed Resin.
For price per litre this is one of the cheapest DI Vessels on the market whilst being of exceptional quality.
Prices include delivery to UK Mainland (ex. Scottish Highlands)
DI vessel filled with MB-115 resin:
£91.06 ea (£109.27 including vat and delivery)"

And by adding a refill bag (extra resin), I was given a discount but I can't remember how much; it was a decent amount…..if I remember correctly, it paid for the test meter.

EDIT: The refill bag is large enough to fill the vessel at least 3-5 times….I have just refilled for the first time and it barely dented the refill bag.
 
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