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Update: So this month has been man vs frame rail. THere were Two issues, 1) Drivers side was out of line as mentioned, 2) There was a dent furthur back on drivers side rail, just behind brake line.
I've managed to fix number 1 - well when i say fixed, it's much better than it was. For some reason the new crash panel holes that bolt on the ends of each wing seems wider that the original car by about 4mm but i aint about to start trying to bend strut towers! I did concede though and recently bought on of those hydraulic frame repair jacks. Trying to do this with long lengths of timber / hand held winding jack from other car was proving fruitless.
2) Resolved via purchasing a mig welder. I welded on an M20 stud, made a little frame out of some 2''x1'' wood with a hole through center and then tightened up a nut on the end to effectively pull the dent. Took a couple of attempts but it worked eventually. Again it's not perfect but by the time i've tidied it up and run some paint over it'll be barely noticeable. I don't think this officially needed repairing but it's nice to get things as close i can back to nprmal.

The other massive update was getting engine to fire up last weekend. I'd given up trying to find a mid range scan tool that was capable of 'Enabling engine start after crash'. this is an ECU code that these car register when airbags deploy to prevent starter motor. Used to be a physical pyro fuse that blew. So i'd verbally arranged a mobile mechanic to come after the Christmas break who had Star. After speaking to him and purchasing an iCarsoft off this site from another member (I knew this couldn't do the job but i wanted an OEM reader for general fault code reading down the line) i found a video of a guy getting rid of this fault code using a scanner called Launch Creader Elite. £106 off ebay. I didn't expect this would work but given the mobile mechanic never called me back (unsurprisingly) i thought - what have i got to loose. Plugged it in, disable that code and hit start and what do you know, she fired straight up didn't miss a beat. Sounded tappy for the first 2 seconds and then smooth as. I recon this engine hasn't been started since at least September 2023. Couldn't run it for long though as no coolant in system. I've not refilled it yet as apparently the need vacuum filling and i'l need to figure out how thats possible given the car can't move yet?
So todays jobs are to final fit the crash panel back on and bolt the rads back up + start getting all the various sensors plugged back up. I also need to build back up the drivers wheel strut assembly and get everything loctite back up. Also have a new hinge and i'd like to trial fit new bonnet so i can check alignment to front end. Next weekend I need to replace a short section of brake line. I've bought the kit for this, just waiting on Merc brake fluid to arrive so i can top up reservoir when bleeding. I do have a question about this concerning the coated steel lines, how much of the coating should be stripped back if any? Some say as far back as the flare tool requires otherwise the pipe won't fit into the tooling, in my case this will be about an inch, others say just enough to allow the flare, i think i'd even read someone saying they don't strip it back at all. Plus given they're steel if i strip back an inch i'm going to need to recreate some surface protection otherwise it'll rust to buggery. I could paint then add a heat shrink tube? Advice please....
There's still some damage to the end of the sill drivers side (See previous pics i've added) and i think this will need a proper body shop. Metal is so kinked at top side i can't get it to budge, might have another go once drivers wing is off.
So phase 1 - which was all the metal work and structural stuff is nearly complete. Phase 2 will be interior (Airbags, seat belts and crash module reset). By then it'll be ready for MOT and then phase 3 is paint shop. Still looking reasonable for my back on road by March plan (i'm only doing this at weekends and work away from home often in the week) assuming no other nightmare discoveries appear.
Am still on the lookout for a second hand front wheel, part number A205 401 54 00 finish ET33 - must not have weld repairs! If anyone knows of anyone or anywhere i can approach let us know. (PS: I've seen all the stuff on ebay, only 1 was decent and the seller refused Two separate offers - despite having 'Make me an offer', feature switched on. If someone isn't going to accept a 10% discount then i'm not buying :)
 
Update number….I’ve lost count. Brake pipe repair complete, not had chance to bleed them yet but that should get done this weekend. Also attempted vacuum fill of coolant system last weekend - which I’ve screwed up!
It took in about 5 litres on main system and about 600ml on intercooler side, this is woefully under spec (10.9 and 3 litres).
My theory was that as I apply air to create vacuum any residual coolant would be expelled……wrong!
My theory is that since the coolant hose that ripped was relatively high up on engine that all coolant below this level was still sat there. So it’s probably filled up with no air pockets but now I run the risk of having g OEM coolant ive bought being mixed with god knows what. Good chance it’s original stuff but I don’t want to chance it. So now I need to drain it properly and redo the whole process - ahh you live and learn!
This weekend should also be wire repair in front, drive for first time - ok about 6 ft out onto driveway but got to celebrate these milestones, then drivers wing off, replacement on and trial for new bumper with headlights etc and see if panel gaps look ok. Assuming all good then I’m onto interior. Anyone got any tips on removing curtain airbag clips then I’m all ears, they look like they’re going to be a challenge.
Will update soon
 
Well it drives fine. Ran it back and forth a number of times and no issues to report transmission wise. I let it run for a good hour to get upto temperature. I must say the top end sounds quite tappy? I've never heard one of these run before though so i've nothing to compare to. Currently has no engine cover or air intake pipes.
The other weird thing is that after it had been running for quite some time i started hearing an intermittent buzzing sound, it seemed to be coming from the intercooler reservoir or at least the rest of the gubbins which it's attached to. Anyone any ideas? I did capture a short video but not sure how to upload those on here?
Todays experiment is seeing if the headlights work. The drivers side is a new (Second hand) unit with a second hand module. One of the other modules looked like it survived (The smaller square one). The left hand side is a new unit also but using the Two original modules. I'm expecting the left hand side to work and the drivers side not to work due to not being coded to the vehicle. This could prove challenging since i don't have the little QR code from the original headlight which i believe is needed? There was a QR code on the original module so i've taken a photo of that.
I'll report back any progress. If i remember correctly before stripping the car down the DRL's were still working on the left but the low beam wouldn't, mind you back then i didn't really have much of a play around since there were many other higher priorities, and that light turned out to be damaged inside - all the light clusters could slide back and forward so maybe it took some of the impact?
Any advice appreciated as always
Much love
 
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Well it drives fine. Ran it back and forth a number of times and no issues to report transmission wise. I let it run for a good hour to get upto temperature. I must say the top end sounds quite tappy? I've never heard one of these run before though so i've nothing to compare to. Currently has no engine cover or air intake pipes.
The other weird thing is that after it had been running for quite some time i started hearing an intermittent buzzing sound, it seemed to be coming from the intercooler reservoir or at least the rest of the gubbins which it's attached to. Anyone any ideas? I did capture a short video but not sure how to upload those on here?
Todays experiment is seeing if the headlights work. The drivers side is a new (Second hand) unit with a second hand module. One of the other modules looked like it survived (The smaller square one). The left hand side is a new unit also but using the Two original modules. I'm expecting the left hand side to work and the drivers side not to work due to not being coded to the vehicle. This could prove challenging since i don't have the little QR code from the original headlight which i believe is needed? There was a QR code on the original module so i've taken a photo of that.
I'll report back any progress. If i remember correctly before stripping the car down the DRL's were still working on the left but the low beam wouldn't, mind you back then i didn't really have much of a play around since there were many other higher priorities, and that light turned out to be damaged inside - all the light clusters could slide back and forward so maybe it took some of the impact?
Any advice appreciated as always
Much love
Well they almost work. DRL's on both sides, dipped beam works both sides, indicators work both sides but high beam only works on passenger side so perhaps that second module (The large rectangular one) is responsible for high beam and won't work until coded? I'll need to find someone who can come to the car for this as it has no MOT. I'm also beginning to think the battery is no good. On trickle charge it'll get to between 12.8 to 13v. Had it checked at halfords who said it was fine (but they didn't load test it). The vehicle is displaying the warning 'Pull over and leave engine running' in ref to 12v battery. I'd assumed this was that auxiliary battery thing since the main battery has been kept in the house over winter.
I've just had car running for over an hour. Before starting it was 12.7v, while engine running it's 14.75v and after engine off it's dropped to 12.5v. Maybe it just needs a good long drive but that's a few weeks off yet.
I got the damaged wing off but not happy with the replacement one so I'm going to move onto interior next. I've all the parts except seat belts and still in two minds as to have them reset or replace. I also think i've worked out how to remove curtain airbag clips without damaging them. If it works i'll update with pics.
 
Update: So I’ve completed interior. Seatbelts arrived this week. Front ones not too bad, rear ones were very hard on S205. The plastic trim pieces are like one of those Japanese wood carving puzzles like where two opposing edges are dovetailed.
Anyway all in and no more seatbelt faults. All that is left is to rebuild is front bumper, still waiting on a few trim parts from MB and online. Next big hurdle is finding a decent paint shop, so far not had much joy getting replies. Need front bumper, drivers wing and bonnet respray + 3 inch dent on passenger rear quarter.
Turns out the headlights did work without any programming so that’s one less hasste. Also curtain airbag clips were removed in the end with a pair of circlip pliers. If anyone is interested let me know and I’ll post up some pics. I’ve put the headliner back in last weekend one my own which surprisingly wasn’t that hard. Really wanted to get the paint work done before rebuilding the front bumper which is assembled from many many other parts and then get mot. At this rate I may have to just rebuild and get paintwork done at later date, I really want to drive this thing!!!
 

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Ok folks, so begins what i hope is the final chapter of this project. I got the car back from paint yesterday (Finally!). They'd had it since Apr 19th but to be fair they've done an excellent job. All i need to do now is re-build the front bumper back up and then try to get wings, bonnet, bumper and headlights to line up. If anyone has any tips for doing this i'd appreciate it. The repair garage said it can be a nightmare of chasing your tail and they do this kind of thing day in day out so as an amatuer i'm a little concerned how long this could take.
One issue i still have is the drivers side bonnet hinge. I couldn't replace it due to there being a metal pipe running through the hinge body to an airbag gas generator located behind drivers wing. I can't find anything online about disconnecting such a system so don't want to mess with it if I can avoid. Both hinges had decoupled their second joint due to pedestrian protection firing in the crash and the drivers one hasn't quite latched back together fully. Might just be a case of giving it some gentle persuasion.
Assuming i get panels aligned then there's just bits and bobs such as undertrays, clipping cills back on, bolting battery down properly and then taking her for an MOT and wheel alignment. Can't believe i've owned this car since last November and still not had chance to drive it yet, i can't wait.
Oh, i almost forgot, i have a fault to fix on engine too but it's straight forward. I've got the farting transducer issue on the turbo vacuum which has been covered here on other threads (it's like an intermittent humming coming from around the intercooler coolant tank. Apparenty what causes that transducer to fail is a little check valve up near dip stick which should be replaced at the same time so i'm going to check that out. It won't stop the car being driven though, just reduces how much boost you get and causes waste gate actuator to flutter while idling - parts all in should be sub £200.
Once it's all done i;ll post a picture of whole car so you can all critique my gaping :)
 
I'm sure we will all be "gaping" at your amazing gapping!! 😄
Based on the last 2 hours that might not be the case. It is a real faff. I might just have to get it reasonable and take it to the pros once it's back on the road. I'm also still considering changing the drivers side hinge as i think that is the culprit of my issues - nothing to do with me being crap at panel alignment......:)
 
Ok so i've done some more digging. This cylinder in the wing is not a gas genny for airbags but apparently a fire extinguisher for the turbos. Part number 2058604700. Pipe work from it does route to both turbos. I've managed to disconnect one end just after the elbow but still this won't allow me to get the drivers hinge off. The other connectors just swivel 360deg and look like they are swaged onto rubber hose. Anyone any ideas how these undo?
 
Ok so i've done some more digging. This cylinder in the wing is not a gas genny for airbags but apparently a fire extinguisher for the turbos. Part number 2058604700. Pipe work from it does route to both turbos. I've managed to disconnect one end just after the elbow but still this won't allow me to get the drivers hinge off. The other connectors just swivel 360deg and look like they are swaged onto rubber hose. Anyone any ideas how these undo?
Forget this last post. I've found a cunning plan which is working. Time to get the new hinge on and see if everything gets a little easier.
 
This update should be titled ''Stop being an optimistic fool''
So, i got the panels and bumper lined up eventually, after 2 days of faff. Given i'd got this far and only had arch liners and undertrays to fit i confidently booked in for full wheel alignment and mot this Sat. That would have been it (assuming a pass) and then I'd be a free and happy C43 enjoyer.
Now bare in mind this bumper, fully built up with the MB supplied OEM pedestrian protection sensors installed had never been connected up until now + the x2 new bonnet actuators for the pedestrian system.
2 faults, 1 or both keeping the airbag light on hence mot booking has been canceled.
1st fault - B280613 - The squib for the refrigerant inerting has malfunction, there is an open circuit. I've ordered a new part for this fault since i believe this likely fired in the crash just like airbags did. It's designed to minimise an engine fire caused by leaking AC gas contacting hot components.
2nd fault - the 'i can't figure it out' one..... is B273715 Right impact sensor for ped protect has short to positive or open circuit. I unplugged the left one and detected the exact same error message but for the left, which cleared after it was re connected. THis shows that at least some of the wire repairs i did worked. So i think the issue is a broken wire. Some wires were jointed back together on the loom for whole front bumper. I've tested continuity through a repair to the right front sensor wires (x2) and they're ok - passed continuity test.. The same loom further back which hosts all 12 wires (Left and right ped sensors and all front parking sensors) was also joint repaired. - all 12 wires. This is because it's after the main bumper joint on front bumper. I've re exposed the repaired joints but all looks ok. Reluctant to cut them above the repair only to find the joints did have continuity right back to the sensor. May have no choice. Anyone know where i might find the other end of these wires, lke into a fuse box? I could then test continuity back to the plug to rule out broken wire?
 

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