How much for a respray ballpark figures? CLKW208 (silver!!!)

[Smiley]

Full paint job on your CLK £ 1300 including paint and materials, blasting rust and treating with zinc primer the only way !


clivedcp

cutting the metal out or replacing the panel is the only long term solution. Blasting and zinc primer = rust back in 2 or 3 years and you may as well have put 1300 quid on the woodburner.

 

[Deleted member 37751]

Have you priced up exactly how much it would cost to simply replace the affected panels?

 

[clever dicky]

I did most of mine a year or two back in the garden. one panel at a time. You can still see bonnet in garden on google.

 

[rossyl]

I did most of mine a year or two back in the garden. one panel at a time. You can still see bonnet in garden on google.

How was the paint match with that technique? And good on you doing it yourself!

 

[rossyl]

Full paint job on your CLK £ 1300 including paint and materials, blasting rust and treating with zinc primer the only way !


clivedcp

Thanks Clive, would like to discuss a few things with you - will email you if that's ok?

 

[flango]

cutting the metal out or replacing the panel is the only long term solution. Blasting and zinc primer = rust back in 2 or 3 years and you may as well have put 1300 quid on the woodburner.

That's not entirely true depends on how bad the rust actually is you wouldn't bin a panel for a few surface rust bubbles, but you would if it was holed, my W208 is 14 years old now and there is not a spot of rust on it anywhere as those who have seen it will vouch for. Blasting and zinc primer will be fine if it's only surface rust anything else needs more drastic treatment, that why I,m a little uneasy when people quote prices without seeing the job.

 

[dog68]

I personaly dont like pricing for work, without seeing the vehicle first.

 

[Smiley]

That's not entirely true depends on how bad the rust actually is you wouldn't bin a panel for a few surface rust bubbles, but you would if it was holed, my W208 is 14 years old now and there is not a spot of rust on it anywhere as those who have seen it will vouch for. Blasting and zinc primer will be fine if it's only surface rust anything else needs more drastic treatment, that why I,m a little uneasy when people quote prices without seeing the job.

In my experience "surface rust bubbles" spell quite a lot bigger problems when you start grinding away - the rust eats into the metal over a far bigger area - it does amaze me it can do that - completely covered up with lyers and layers of paint - it must be the moisture in the paint itself I guess. Even grinding away and then priming means that the rust comes back. A cheap quick blowerover with a huge dollop of filler primer will last 6 - 12 months before the tell tale signs are there for the experienced eye. A real good grinding out and priming might last 2 or 3 years but it will be back. Usually it deteriorates quickly from there and looks worse than the original paint would have done.
Truth is it is not economic to do a proper rust removal job on the average 10 - 15 yr old Merc - it is either a blow over to sell it on - or it is a labour of love to do it properly.

 

[CKLclive]

Thanks Clive, would like to discuss a few things with you - will email you if that's ok?

Feel free to email me no problems

cklclive

 

[flango]

In my experience "surface rust bubbles" spell quite a lot bigger problems when you start grinding away - the rust eats into the metal over a far bigger area - it does amaze me it can do that - completely covered up with lyers and layers of paint - it must be the moisture in the paint itself I guess. Even grinding away and then priming means that the rust comes back. A cheap quick blowerover with a huge dollop of filler primer will last 6 - 12 months before the tell tale signs are there for the experienced eye. A real good grinding out and priming might last 2 or 3 years but it will be back. Usually it deteriorates quickly from there and looks worse than the original paint would have done.
Truth is it is not economic to do a proper rust removal job on the average 10 - 15 yr old Merc - it is either a blow over to sell it on - or it is a labour of love to do it properly.

Sorry but I don't agree, water in paint maybe yes on water based paints but not before whilst still solvent based, that's why so many MB rusted when MB swapped to water based paints and screwed up big time. I agree big dollops of filler and primer are no good to anybody but binning panels for surface rust is madness, I've seen cars our body work guy has done 10 years ago that are still perfect including W208, W202, W124 etc. It's all iin the preparation " Fail to prepare,prepare to fail" never a truer word spoken

 

[312 Sprinter]

In my experience "surface rust bubbles" spell quite a lot bigger problems when you start grinding away - the rust eats into the metal over a far bigger area - it does amaze me it can do that - completely covered up with lyers and layers of paint - it must be the moisture in the paint itself I guess. Even grinding away and then priming means that the rust comes back. A cheap quick blowerover with a huge dollop of filler primer will last 6 - 12 months before the tell tale signs are there for the experienced eye. A real good grinding out and priming might last 2 or 3 years but it will be back. Usually it deteriorates quickly from there and looks worse than the original paint would have done.
Truth is it is not economic to do a proper rust removal job on the average 10 - 15 yr old Merc - it is either a blow over to sell it on - or it is a labour of love to do it properly.

There isn't anything wrong with repairing a panel, letting new steel into it is a perfectly good way of repairing expensive panels that are mostly OK. When you see bubbling it isn't normally coming from the surface of the panel, but from within whatever box section the panel is part of. In reality even a cheap repair using fibreglass is capable of lasting really well. The problem is that when people get into cheap blow over mode they aren't going to remove accumulated dirt holding moisture or take steps to keep water and oxygen from the repair by painting or injecting anti rust wax.

The panel below has been repaired by butt welding in a new section (the two edges of the steel are welded together). There is no overlap and no seam to trap moisture. You can see both the inside and outside of the repair (it isn't a Mercedes as it happens) It will last as well as the original panel, or better if properly rust proofed. The repair on the outside of the car will require virtually no filler when it is done properly. It is however time consuming....

 

[cazyp]

I had a quote of almost £3k to respray all but the roof of my 210, about 2 years ago - it didn't all need doing but they said that spraying every panel was the only way to avoid colour mismatch.

They lied.

It really depends on the amount of preparation that is done. Ball park figure you're looking at somewhere between £300 and £600 worth of paint and materials. Beyond that it is about how thorough a job you do. Glass out, door seals off, door handles off, spray the shuts? You can easily spend days on dismantling, cleaning and re assembly. Always bear in mind that it costs a lot more money to remove a bad paint job from a car than it costs to put it on.

You can probably persuade someone to do a quick blowover for under a grand. On the other hand I'm currently restoring a car and we're 100 hours into doing preparation and filling, no paint has been sprayed yet........

Have a look at my E220 thread. That was a partial respray, no paint on the roof, no door shuts but proper prep on what actually needed doing.

The last time I bought materials and paint for a full respray it came to under £150! It was 5 years ago but even so..
Even flip paint is only £72 a litre trade now for base and top coat. Just had a look and silver metallics (for example) can be had for £12.50 +vat per litre.

Prep work man hours is where the cost is. A good sprayer with a down draught booth will need very little finishing work.

 

[clever dicky]

How was the paint match with that technique? And good on you doing it yourself!

Thanks, wasnt that bad once in to it. Its like decorating a room, you dont sit there watching telly and think I'll just do that bit now. You have to be completely resigned to it, do a lot of preparation and then get stuck in totally committed. I knew very little before and still do, but its quite straight forward and very rewarding. I dont think some bits will / would ever be perfect, but then some bits i look at like doors dont exactly match the rear quarters either which was factory.

One crucial thing i did learn and good advice for anybody, and thats after getting back to bear metal slight rust is insignificant. You strip all the old paint away like old wallpaper and then you see how far its really spread. A few minutes with 200 grit on sanding wheel and its all gone forever.

Thing to remember though after all the rubbing and several coats of primer rubbed back each time you realise That is the the real paint. the top coat is just the colour, the lacquer is just the shine.

 

[clever dicky]

There isn't anything wrong with repairing a panel, letting new steel into it is a perfectly good way of repairing expensive panels that are mostly OK. When you see bubbling it isn't normally coming from the surface of the panel, but from within whatever box section the panel is part of. In reality even a cheap repair using fibreglass is capable of lasting really well. The problem is that when people get into cheap blow over mode they aren't going to remove accumulated dirt holding moisture or take steps to keep water and oxygen from the repair by painting or injecting anti rust wax.

The panel below has been repaired by butt welding in a new section (the two edges of the steel are welded together). There is no overlap and no seam to trap moisture. You can see both the inside and outside of the repair (it isn't a Mercedes as it happens) It will last as well as the original panel, or better if properly rust proofed. The repair on the outside of the car will require virtually no filler when it is done properly. It is however time consuming....

Looks like rear panels i did in my old transit, except it was grey.

 

[312 Sprinter]

They lied.




The last time I bought materials and paint for a full respray it came to under £150! It was 5 years ago but even so..
Even flip paint is only £72 a litre trade now for base and top coat. Just had a look and silver metallics (for example) can be had for £12.50 +vat per litre.

Prep work man hours is where the cost is. A good sprayer with a down draught booth will need very little finishing work.

Not for decent material. I bought some acrylic two pack primer filler today; £183 for a pot of paint, excluding hardener and thinners. That was trade price. I spent damn near £500 at the paint factors and got a good level of discount.

I know there are some seriously cheap materials out there, but it will end up looking like crap, or you'll put so much labour into getting it to look good that you might as well have bought the good stuff.

 

[Smiley]

Sorry but I don't agree, water in paint maybe yes on water based paints but not before whilst still solvent based, that's why so many MB rusted when MB swapped to water based paints and screwed up big time. I agree big dollops of filler and primer are no good to anybody but binning panels for surface rust is madness, I've seen cars our body work guy has done 10 years ago that are still perfect including W208, W202, W124 etc. It's all iin the preparation " Fail to prepare,prepare to fail" never a truer word spoken

I agree it is all in the prep - hats off to you if you have been able to repair a panel and keep the rust away for 10 years - I have never managed it despite trying quite hard to grind the old rust out - but then I am no pro.
As you say it is all in the prep and that does not come cheap.

 

[biturbo]

I got my wings donw on my w210 new panels for £200 both sides. Perfect finish and match.

 

[Borys]

I spent 400 on materials and paid 700 for the labour-whole car.It's not that bad but could be better=that's my cl420 job done privately
My c36 had a full respray with lots of body work done.Shipped it to Poland for 400 and for respray with materials 1000 profesionally done.
Was in a garage in my area to ask and they said 4K for that job- I could do 4 cars for that with same efect.
Labour it's so expensive.

 

[simplestu]

Having my silver met W208 reprayed next week

Hello,
Just joined site and got a 2000 CLK coupe. Spotted this very relevant information for my situation.
I've got a few rust spots to be treated around wheel arches and on driver's side rear arch, hiding under AMG side skirt.
I'm paying £1300 for 2x front wings and 2x quarter panels, which think is pretty good from a well recommended independent paint specialist (perfect paint, Sandhurst, Berkshire)
They advised they have to repaint all panel to blend the paint and lacquer colours into the overall, and to minimise the chance of rust coming back too soon.
I can't do anything mechanical myself, and think for this MB ailment getting it done properly and best possible will be better in long run as rest of car is solid.
Best Regards,
Stuart

£450 is paint, £850 labour

 

[johnpidge]

Hello,
Just joined site and got a 2000 CLK coupe. Spotted this very relevant information for my situation.
I've got a few rust spots to be treated around wheel arches and on driver's side rear arch, hiding under AMG side skirt.
I'm paying £1300 for 2x front wings and 2x quarter panels, which think is pretty good from a well recommended independent paint specialist (perfect paint, Sandhurst, Berkshire)
They advised they have to repaint all panel to blend the paint and lacquer colours into the overall, and to minimise the chance of rust coming back too soon.
I can't do anything mechanical myself, and think for this MB ailment getting it done properly and best possible will be better in long run as rest of car is solid.
Best Regards,
Stuart

£450 is paint, £850 labour

Welcome and that figure sounds about right

It is difficult to 100% rid of the tin worm!