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Howto: Clean the MAS/MAF

Parrot of Doom

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
1,101
Location
Manchester, UK
Car
1997 R-reg W210 E300TD saloon
Feel free to point out any glaring mistakes I made while doing this :)

My engine has been playing up a bit, surging when cold in the morning, occasional misfire. Chief suspect (and cheapest to investigate) was the MAF, cleaning it would certainly do no harm. So heres what I did:

First, open the bonnet (duh!). The MAF can be found exiting the air filter box for the engine. On mine (300TD) its on the offside of the engine bay, at the front. You can see a small electrical plug attached to the air intake.

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1) Remove the plug

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2) Unclip the air filter box

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3) Undo the MAF from the hose by unscrewing the Jubilee clip.

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4) Remove the MAF from the air filter box, using a philips screwdriver (2 screws, 1 is hidden slightly) Once the screws are undone, you have to tug quite forcibly to pull the MAF away from the filter box. There is a large O-ring between the two, once separated check the O-ring to see if its in good condition. If its a bit knackered, get a replacement.

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This is the O-ring:

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5) Once the MAF is separate, you'll be able to see what kind of condition its in. Mine was full of flies and muck. The inside of the MAF was also covered in a thin layer of oily muck. You can see the element at one end of the MAF, the whole arrangement is protected by a plastic grid. Don't be tempted to touch the element at any time, its quite delicate.

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Oily scum:

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6) To clean the element, spray Isopropyl Alcohol onto it. I used just enough to get rid of the most visible contaminents. I also sprayed some around the inside of the MAF to help dissolve the oily muck that was there. I used kitchen roll to wipe this clean, although obviously I could only get to the first 2 inches or so. I sprayed on both the open side of the MAF, and the protected part of the element.

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This is what came off the element:

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Now while I was doing this, I thought I might as well clean the pipe to the turbo, and the little pipe that heads off into the engine block. So I undid the jubilee clip holding the hose to the turbo, pulled the pipe from the engine block (it just slides out), and sprayed them both inside with lots of Isopropyl. Then I ran kitchen roll through them both and removed the oily slime from inside. You probably don't need to do this, but it can't do any harm.

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This is the exposed turbo intake. Probably not a good idea to touch that :)

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Utterly filthy pipe from the MAF to the turbo:

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Once everything is dry, put it all back together in reverse order. Make sure nothing drops into the pipes when you're refitting.

Does it work? No idea. Haven't driven it yet, and its warm so the engine doesn't surge much this time of year. I'll let you know if the car's behaviour changes at all. Remember to give things time to dry, the alcohol should dry very quickly but if you saturate it and then put it all back together, the system will suck it through. Doubt it would do any harm whatsoever, but best to be safe.
 
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Oh, when I get the right torx driver for the socket, I'll post a piccie of the MAF out of its case entirely! But you can actually reach it with the spray, without removing it.
 
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Great Work! Must get it transferred to the "How to" section.
 
Great post Parrot :D Always good to see how differing engines have their MAS located. When I was replacing mine I got the security Torx bit set from Halfords, wasn't too bad on cost either.

Asif Kazani said:
Great Work! Must get it transferred to the "How to" section.
Done :)

S.
 
Parrot of Doom said:
This is the exposed turbo intake. Probably not a good idea to touch that :)

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Ok, I've got this far what should I do now?

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other than isoprophyl alcohol what can i use??? because i dont think here in australia they have them ...

cheers
 
r_widjaya said:
other than isoprophyl alcohol what can i use??? because i dont think here in australia they have them ...

cheers

The common name is rubbing alcohol available at any chemist or contact cleaner from electronic suppiers.
Spray cans of brake cleaner is similar stuff..IE. leaves no residue.

adam
 
Parrot

Be careful when refitting the top onto the air filter cover, in the piccie you casing seems to be warped a little (like mine think heat of turbo does it) and this can cause the air filter element not to seat properly and let unfiltered air into the engine which your obviously getting if there were flies etc in you MAF. I think the air filter housing is a bad design on these im just never happy with the seal on mine.

230K
 
big x said:
The common name is rubbing alcohol available at any chemist or contact cleaner from electronic suppiers.
Spray cans of brake cleaner is similar stuff..IE. leaves no residue.

adam

Brake cleaner spray are generally not Chlorine Free and this can harm the MAF, residues or no residues. Unless you could find one that is chlorine free, it is definately safer to use Isopropyl Spray or contact cleaner.
 
Be careful what cleaning agent you use as Sevisol contact/switch cleaner does melt some hard plastics (I used to use it while repairing TVs) so if you must, use it sparingly and wipe up any residue!
 
230K said:
Parrot

Be careful when refitting the top onto the air filter cover, in the piccie you casing seems to be warped a little (like mine think heat of turbo does it) and this can cause the air filter element not to seat properly and let unfiltered air into the engine which your obviously getting if there were flies etc in you MAF. I think the air filter housing is a bad design on these im just never happy with the seal on mine.

230K

Yes, I noticed it too. When I bought the car the air filter box was full of debris, and when I changed the filter I hoovered it all out. I think much of the debris on my MAF was probably from this era, in fact probably it built up since the car was new as I doubt anybody had ever touched it before me.

Its funny when you refit the lid as it never seems to line up correctly - however the filter has a seal around the edge that seems to work ok.
 
I used Isopropyl Alcohol to clean my unit today, but didnt have it in a spray, so tried to clean it with a cotton bud, be warned the sensor is VERY delicate. It broke into 3 pieces, but luckly I had a spare. Ill get a spray tomorrow and have ago at my other one.
 
big x said:
The common name is rubbing alcohol available at any chemist or contact cleaner from electronic suppiers.
Spray cans of brake cleaner is similar stuff..IE. leaves no residue.

adam

I use Brake Clean.

On a petrol MAF just liberally squirt the spray thru and shake off, dont use compressed air.

The torx screws are steel and can be removed with small locking pliers. I replace mine with self tappers.

Bazzle
 
Location on a W208 (CLK 230K)

The MAF sensor is located in a completely different place on my W208. I followed the same cleansing procedure as Parrot, but I thought I'd post a photo showing the different location. Apologies for the quality, it was a camera phone.
 

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i will probably be doing this on my 2 W124's..... has everyone who's done it so far seen an improvement?
 
i will probably be doing this on my 2 W124's..... has everyone who's done it so far seen an improvement?

yours will be a hot wire type and hard to say if it will clean as such
 

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