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I couldnt help myself

reflexboy

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 23, 2005
Messages
2,403
Location
Surrey, UK
Car
E350 CDi Sport&SLK250CDi AMG Sport
Let's see if this stuff lives up to the amazing reviews it gets. Initial findings are that the surface of the wheels felt slicker with a few coats of FK1000, which is contrary to reviews. I really just wanted the best protection I could get for those vulnerable diamond cut faces against the winter salt.
 
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I'm pretty cynical on this sort of product but I've used it for the last 3 or four years on my diamond cut alloys.
Really does protect them - I did the Jeep ones two weeks ago.
On previous applications the water is still running off rather than beading after a year.
 
Personally, I prefer using Sonax Detailer after a wash. It protects well and is easily applied; lasts easily until the next wash when the brake dust is very easy to shift.
 
I have the same stuff sitting in the cupboard, I was speaking to the guy who corrected the paint and ceramic coated my Jag and he said its rubbish and to use it on the glass...

Contrary to his advise I will be applying it to my new wheels in Spring. lol
 
I used the C5 on a freshly refurbed set of wheels, and frankly found it a total waste of effort. After 2 weeks I had to reapply fk100p, which provides a much better finish, and makes the wheels much easier to clean.

So far, all of the gtechniq products I've tried have been over hyped rubbish.

imho of course.
 
Thanks for your comments gents. Well, it gave me the opportunity to give the wheels a proper 'wheels off' clean, de tar, clay and then DA polish the faces if nothing else. Will see how they scrub up once I get them dirty again. I suppose it's horses for courses and personal preference. I must admit I found Poorboys wheel sealant naff where others raved about it and FK1000 pretty darn good. Well see.
 
So far, all of the gtechniq products I've tried have been over hyped rubbish.

imho of course.


I have found this, I'd liken C2 to Turtlewax Ice. Probably worse, actually.

I don't really trust any sealer that recommends no more than a condensation of the stuff on the surface. Still use Collonite 476s, as it seems to be a PITA to apply but better on wheels and paint that most other stuff
 
reflexboy said:
I really just wanted the best protection I could get for those vulnerable diamond cut faces against the winter salt.

I've used a few different products now, GTechniq C5, CarProDLUX, FK1000p, AF Mint Rims, BMD Revolutions and in my experience ceramic coatings well outperform the likes of FK. C5 is the best I've used on my daily driver, 15k pa mileage.

For the chap who posted further down saying he had to put FK on after 2 weeks as the C5 had dropped off in performance, something has clearly gone wrong as that is just not normal.
 
For ceramic coatings to work, the paint MUST be completely clean.

When I applied ceramic coatings to my Jeep back many years ago I done it right (body and wheels) and it lasted for 1 year no problem and would have gone for many more months.

My advise is, wash, de-tar, IronX, clay, rinse and then go over the entire surface with IPA or panel wipe. Once dry then apply the coating. It will last.

The most important step is the IPA/panel wipe to remove oils and residue from the paintwork. The ceramic coating must bond directly with the paint or it won't last.

Not the easiest things to apply but they do work. I used C1 or C2 can't recall on the body and wheels and it done a much better job that the chemical guys wheel wax I was using previously.
 
Thanks. I have washed them, de tarred, clayed them, used the DA to get light scratched off the faces, washed them again, dried them the wiped them down twice with neat IPA and buffed with a clean microfibre before applying the C5, so hopefully it will be ok
 
Sounds good. Sure the coating will last you well, the IPA wipe down is key.

It's amazing how much going over the wheels with a medium compound removes the light scratches and adds depth/gloss back into them again.
 
Sounds good. Sure the coating will last you well, the IPA wipe down is key.

It's amazing how much going over the wheels with a medium compound removes the light scratches and adds depth/gloss back into them again.

Yes, the compound really brings them up. I''m not sure I fully agree with your comment about the C5 adding depth/gloss as I think the gloss was better with a few coats of FK1000p, however, I really wanted them to be protected from the salty roads more than anything.
 
Yes, the compound really brings them up. I''m not sure I fully agree with your comment about the C5 adding depth/gloss as I think the gloss was better with a few coats of FK1000p, however, I really wanted them to be protected from the salty roads more than anything.

Sorry I meant the polish adds a good bit of depth/gloss to the wheels not so much the sealant. Like you I used Chemical Guys Wheel Guard and after 3 coats of that stuff the wheels look absolutely amazing. Sealants last longer though.
 
If Gtechniq products are applied correctly they'll definitely last as long as they claim. Years if the surface is cared for.

Definitely worth protecting diamond cut rims although I'd say my biggest tip for them is just give them a clean once a week to remove any salt. I used to have a VW with a bare metal lip, stayed mint over the winter but I washed the wheels regularly even if I didn't get to wash the entire car.
 
I've used C5 on a couple of cars and have been impressed.

My MB had broad spoke alloys with 5 spokes so easy to clean, but my wife's VW Tiguan 10 spoke wheels which are a faff to clean.

With C5 applied they both literally sponge clean - on the Mercedes it still works fine after 18 months.

My only issue is I find it had to apply as you can't see where you've done and it's difficult to judge how much to spread it so that you don't run out before finishing the last wheel.
 
As stated earlier and just re-iterate, you must and i mean must remove all traces of wax or any other coating from the surface to be coated before applying any Gtechniq product especially on clear coat / painted surfaces.
If you dont, it will not adhere correctly and you can end up with " shading ", this is more prominent on dark paint colours.
Temperature also plays a big part in the application too.
 

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