I give up.

[mj2k]

Worst case scenario - is everything on the subframe - could it all be dropped out in one and worked on out of the car ?

Especially since in the OP he mentions still having the rear subframe mountings to do ...

If he's doing that anyway it'd make a lot of sense, otherwise the simplest way to deal with bolts seized in by catalytic corrosion is to take / snap the nut off, apply plenty of heat and either whack the bolt out with a lump hammer or use a balljoint splitter to get it moving if there's enough room. As a last resort (which I had to do a fair few times on the Alfa), cut the bolt head off and the shank on the other side as close as you dare to the mount, and either pry the whole thing out (if possible) or slice the component in half laterally and pry the broken bits out whilst wondering why they didn't use stainless bolts in the first place

@tron make sure you post some pics on here if you are determined to get rid of the car; I'm sure you'll have some interested parties

 

[1chris]

mj2k I think you mean dissimilar metals corrosion.........galvanic corrosion not catalytic corrosion lol

 

[a111r]

I don't think the 202 or 210 has any alloy suspension arms.

OP, imagine trying to remove and replace the 3 rusty SLS pipes up by the diff. on a S210.
Very few S202s have SLS, so I reckon you're a lucky man!

 

[brucemillar]

whack the bolt out with a lump hammer or use a balljoint splitter to get it moving if there's enough room. As a last resort (which I had to do a fair few times on the Alfa), cut the bolt head off and the shank on the other side as close as you dare to the mount, and either pry the whole thing out (if possible) or slice the component in half laterally and pry the broken bits out whilst wondering why they didn't use stainless bolts in the first place

Now we are talking proper man tools and proper man engineering stuff.

 

[219]

My Nissan has been on axle stands in the drive for over a year for much the same reason. - I just can't face lying on my back working on it at the moment.

I'm still trying to avoid it going to the scrap man, but if my wife has her way that's what will happen.

My 201 was the same - I started the jobs a year past , then at the end of summer just left it as I didn't fancy crawling underneath in bad weather . This year I finished the job and the car is back on the road .

Now the SL is up on ramps to change the fuel tank , but weather has been rotten last few weekends , so it's still sitting there . Much longer and it'll lie till spring next year since I don't NEED to fix it right now .

 

[mj2k]

mj2k I think you mean dissimilar metals corrosion.........galvanic corrosion not catalytic corrosion lol

Good point, I always get a picture of rusty cats in my head when I try to describe it, so always write the wrong thing

PITA corrosion would be a better description

 

[Doodle]

I don't think the 202 or 210 has any alloy suspension arms.

The multilink suspension parts are common much of the 80s and 90s Mercs. It's only the tie bar that is made of alloy, the rest are pressed/folded steel.

 

[tron]

The tie bar is made of steel. The bolt is 9.8 so very hard. It laughed at a full hour's belting with a lump hammer. It will move half an inch but it will not fully withdraw. It looks like the first car in forty years I shall give up on.

 

[toolman1954]

Hi Tron,
If anything what you need is a mate, who will come round and take over the job for you, and get the offending bolt out. Angle Grinders, big hammers, some heat and a few obscenities never fail. At times we all have a plateau that we need to cross and that is when a phone call can solve the issue.
If I lived near to Bournemouth, then I would have come round with my favourite big hammer.
If you had of asked, I am sure there is someone close by on here who would have stopped by and helped you, even some moral support helps. Try to not let it get you down.

Steve

 

[Deleted member 126969]

Steel brake pipes, suspension bolts with no anti-seize compound, unmitigated galvanic corrosion hot spots are all things that should NEVER happen in this day and age......but I fully understand why the manufacturers don't bother to sort them. No incentive.

I never assemble (or reassemble) anything likely to be exposed to corrosion inducing conditions without some form of anti-sieze compound being applied. Given it'll probably be me going back there in a few years time, it's just self preservation.

Dropping the subframe is probably a bit of a PITA but it'll mean the rest of the work will be relatively easy to do.

I do get the "I've had enough" thing. Been there myself, but I'd also second the "walk away for a bit and see how you feel later" approach as well given just how much you've put into it.

 

[Doodle]

Tron, which of the bars in the picture I've attached is giving you grief? The bolts are high tensile as you've found, which does make you work a bit harder to cut through.

From prior experience, a hammer is unlikely to get this out in short order.

 

[219]

Dropping the subframe is probably a bit of a PITA but it'll mean the rest of the work will be relatively easy to do.

I only suggested it as Tron mentioned he had the subframe mounts to do anyway .

 

[tron]

This one is the tie rod. Balljoint on the hub end, in order to avoid any confusion. Eccentric bolt to set up angles turns, withdraws 1/2" but still has half an inch of thread exposed.
If the tie rod had been alloy, I would have just chewed away at it with the cordless drill until it gave up but steel is less easy. Access for any sort of cutter is poor and I will not be removing the whole subframe. The first link alone took nearly an evening so I shall not be embarking on that caper. I don't see it as being worth my time.

 

[190]

Have a week off and if you haven't already, read Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance.

 

[Doodle]

That's unexpected, as the OE part on the ones I have done (and the Lemforder replacements) have always been cast alloy.

For reference should anyone else undertake this, I slice the bar section of the arm back to the nub of the cylindrical mounting and then run a narrow cutting disc up each side. Access isn't brilliant but with all the other arms out of the way (including the lower control arm) it's enough to get the job done. Finish with a hammer and chisel punch if required.

 

[a111r]

I was where Tron is, a few weeks ago, ready to scrap the thing. But I didn't.
The thing I find, running an old daily MB, is that the Mrs soon notices when it appears 'too unreliable, always fixing it'.

It is then somewhat jinxed because another fault will usually happen, despite all the issues you've successfully solved. It's a hard one to manage, as she will have always been right about it.
The only way to 'score' here is to buy a newer car and hope it goes wrong, costing lots to fix, hence proving you were right, so another pyrrhic victory!

 

[trapperjohn]

Which one was enchanting please tron?

 

[219]

I was where Tron is, a few weeks ago, ready to scrap the thing. But I didn't.
The thing I find, running an old daily MB, is that the Mrs soon notices when it appears 'too unreliable, always fixing it'.

It is then somewhat jinxed because another fault will usually happen, despite all the issues you've successfully solved. It's a hard one to manage, as she will have always been right about it.
The only way to 'score' here is to buy a newer car and hope it goes wrong, costing lots to fix, hence proving you were right, so another pyrrhic victory!

That was exactly what happened to me , although unintentionally , as I was always doing DIY jobs on my older cars , I relented and bought the S203 , then it turned out to be the most unreliable car I'd ever had , with the repairs beyond my DIY abilities and costing £££ .

Now back in my comfort zone with cars I can look after myself , and nicer to drive as well .

 

[Charles Morgan]

The tactical lesson I have truly learned about older cars is to pick your fights. Changing relays, oil changes, simple diagnostics etc, me. Heavy mechanical stuff underneath cars - local garage with ramp.

The strategic lesson - don't buy a car that needs a lot doing.

 

[mj2k]

I was where Tron is, a few weeks ago, ready to scrap the thing. But I didn't.
The thing I find, running an old daily MB, is that the Mrs soon notices when it appears 'too unreliable, always fixing it'.

It is then somewhat jinxed because another fault will usually happen, despite all the issues you've successfully solved. It's a hard one to manage, as she will have always been right about it.
The only way to 'score' here is to buy a newer car and hope it goes wrong, costing lots to fix, hence proving you were right, so another pyrrhic victory!

I'm in luck there - my other half's Pug 2008 isn't terribly reliable in her opinion (she's clogged up the DPF a few times) and my shinier, newer, lower mileage, better maintained GTA is forever breaking, so the W210's the most reliable car in our house

Just a shame she can't get over it's general crustiness