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Maf

stuart1948

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Joined
May 19, 2006
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Could some one please advice me if there is a simple test to see if the MAf is working correctly.

If I need to replace the MAF. What do I ask for?

Any ideas on cost.

Best place to buy on line or local to Bradford/Leeds.

Thanks.

Stuart
 
unsure on how to test it, but got mine changed just this morning, they charged £97 for diagnosing it on the star machine, and for parts and labour on replacment, sounded good to me, the merc runs great once again!
 
stuart1948 said:
Could some one please advice me if there is a simple test to see if the MAf is working correctly.

If I need to replace the MAF. What do I ask for?

Any ideas on cost.

Best place to buy on line or local to Bradford/Leeds.

Thanks.

Stuart

What are the symptoms? Mine ( on a C180) had sluggish acceleration, jerky gearchanges, pinked on acceleration, sometimes wouldnt go over 3000 rpm. I disconnected it and went on a 35 mile run. Acceleration was back to normal, revved fine and gearchanges ( except when in very slow traffic) were pretty smooth, so i reckoned it was the MAF. I got mine from Eurocarparts ( genuine, not the cheaper option, tried one, it was rubbish)
Car now performs as it should.

I`m not saying this is the best way to prove whether the MAF is at fault, but it worked for me!

Allan
 
The part for mine was something like £45 but it depends which model you drive. Mine is a W202 and the MAF sensor separates from the plastic tubular housing and can be replaced on its own. Beware though if you do it yourself you may have to drill out the 2 fixing screws and replace them. They have strange anti-tamper screw heads which are non-standard sized allen type heads but with a centre post.

Some people on this forum have simply changed the MAF themselves and driven off without any problems but acording to my local indy you should reboot the computer after fitting.
 
Wezzel said:
They have strange anti-tamper screw heads which are non-standard sized allen type heads but with a centre post.

simply go to a hardware shop or any tool shop and buy a cheap set of tamper proof Torx bits, would have saved you a lot of time for $5

if the MAF is really stuffed then just turn the car off, unplug it and go for another drive and you should see an improvement straight away,

if its only just starting to fail than a few common symptoms are,

Lack of power slow acceleration, rough jerky gear changes or the quickest and easiest way of checking it is put your foot flat to the floor and get the engine bouncing on the rev limiter, if it bounces slowly off the rev limiter then the MAF is stuffed.
 
GIN51E said:
simply go to a hardware shop or any tool shop and buy a cheap set of tamper proof Torx bits, would have saved you a lot of time for $5
If I remember correctly these were not the standard anti-tamper screws. The torx pattern had only 5 petals instead of 6 (or something like that). My local indy didn't have a tool and had to drill them out.
 
The easiest screwdriver bit to use if you don't have the correct one is a two pronged security bit which basically sits over the centre pin.

See pic below, second row up at the far side.
 

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one or two standard flat bladed "terminal" screwdrivers will remove the torx screws. They are standard Torx screws with anti-tamper pin in the middle.
 
Dieselman said:
one or two standard flat bladed "terminal" screwdrivers will remove the torx screws. They are standard Torx screws with anti-tamper pin in the middle.

Or pliers then just replace with standard self tappers.

ABzzle
 
Ive disconnected the Maf and the car drives the same as before (misfires)... So is it right to say that the Maf is okay??
 
Yes, because the ECU will have adopted limp home mode to bypass the MAF reading.
 

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