manual transmission jerking mystery

[trade1952]

I have a problem in my 1995 w202 C180 Manual Transmission model. The problem is when I engage the 1st or reverse gear (mostly on reverce gear) and trying to start smoothly, letting go of the clutch slowly, and obviously giving the car enough gas so it's not stalling or anything, like as unpark carefully with slight accelerator (I'm about 30-50% off the clutch), the car starts jerking with clanks.
All the other gears shift fine, No jerk even I start with 2nd gear.
Clutch kit, flyweel and trasmission fluid has been replaced three months ago. Also we have found out that the previous one ( the old one) was in a good condition and the idiot problem remain exact the same.
No any fluid leak inside or outside transmission and the funny mystery is that if i don't drive the car for a day the problem dissapear and everything is smooth and perfect, but then after I drive for a bit (~30min), especially in traffic it will be present again. The problem went bad to worst during the driving day by day.
Any comments of this problem?

A further question is if such a problem occurs from the defective function of the crankshaft position sender unit, which is the only sensor which has not been replaced until now 150K. (I am not having hot start problems).
Thanks in advanced
Mike

 

[W210 Fan]

have the brakes been checked? are these sticking on when changing from reverse to forwards and as they release making the car jerk, outside the box thought but we had a similar problem with a car trailer we used once, that is if you use the brakes to stop the car before changing direction,

 

[scooter]

i would agree with w210 fan as if the every thing has been and still doing but not all the time i would check the discs/ brakes and brake fluid as old fluid would stick the brakes

 

[W210 Fan]

I would hope when they did the clucth kit they replaced the fluid which is in the same resy as the brake fluid, quick visual check under the bonnet would reveal a lot,

 

[grober]

Maybe your handbrake mechanism/cables are broken or sticky or the handbrake shoe return springs are broken?

On another tack could you have oil leaking on to your clutch plate from a defective/worn rear crank oil seal? There would probably have been signs of this when you changed the clutch tho.

 

[trade1952]

Thanks for the replies,
I have re-checked for fluid leaks, also I've replaced brake fluid and brake pads a month ago (brakes disks are in a good condition). The only that remain to check is handbrake system but it seems working well.
Thanks again
Mike

 

[grober]

I am wondering now if you have a gearchange selector problem. there are 3 adjustable rods from the gear lever to the gearchange levers on the side of the box. the shortest is the 1-2 change the middle is 2-3 and longest is 5-R. To set up the linkages correctly you need to select neutral - remove the 3 gearchange rods and then place a locating pin thro all the levers to line them up. dimensions given below. Once the the gearchange levers on the box are all lined up in neutral the length of the gearchange rods can then be adjusted correctly before removing the locating pin. This will only work if the gearchange linkage isn't too worn of course and there are no bushes etc missing
You might get away with a worn/turned down 6 mm drill for this

 

[Dieselman]

trade1952 I don't fully understand your description. Where is the jerking evident from and do you mean a single clunk noise or repetative clonking as you move off, and does this continue or stop.?

I suspect the driveshaft couplings or gearbox rear mount if single clonks but it could be the gearbox internal shafts if continuous.

 

[trade1952]

Dieselman, It happens only when letting go of the clutch slowly trying to start smoothly (slight acceleraton) with 1st or reverse gear, in the middle of clutch pedal. I'll check mounts and drivesaft ...
thank you
Mike

 

[trade1952]

update..
I checked gearbox rear mount its ok, propeller shaft couplings are ok, I just replaced front and rear centering busings, but nothing the idiot problem remain...

Mike

 

[trade1952]

Problem seems solved

We found out that the clutch disc engaged the half of the pressure plate surface. It happen because the center teeth of clutch disc was defective and it jammed momentary at the input (clutch) shaft.
Complete clutch kit replaced again and now everything is normal.
Thanks again for your replies
Mike

 

[praveen]

HI Trade 1572,
is your clutch still working well after the kit change? i think i have the same problem
thanks

 

[praveen]

I Have the same juddering problem on a w211 E class. I replaced clutch kit and flywheel once and the problem stopped for a month. Now its back. ANy ideas?

 

[grober]

Did you replace both the driven[friction] plate and the pressure plate?

 

[praveen]

yes i replaced both clutch plates, release bearing, flywheel etc. shudder started a month later. We dismantled the clutch again and the plate showed signs of overheat. Do you think it could be a defective master or slave cylinder? What else could it be? Thanks

 

[ivanwhisker]

have a c180 doing exactly the same thing been told of merc that its engine mounts or the prop shaft rubber damper the one just behind gear box no one can give a proper answer

 

[Stratman]

You don't, perish the thought, use the clutch instead of the parking brake at traffic lights do you?