IFFY100
Active Member
Poor people don't carry wallets, so it can't be that. LOLAre you sure the ground is level ?
Reverse the cars parked direction and re measure ?
Your wallet is in the car on the drivers side ?
I will remeasure
Mb or lemforder
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I will remeasure
IFFY100
Active Member
Thanks for all the help. I'm going jack the car and check everything again. The only parts I haven't renewed are the upper control arm and ball joints. Not sure if these parts could maybe react differently to new suspension components? Mentioned parts are OEM. Also what is the sysmptoms of worn upper control arms, and will they cause the car to pull to one side if worn?
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Are the springs sat correctly in the (top) rubber shims and/or the lower arm where the end of the spring must meet the 'scalloped' out part of control arm the 'shim' and control arm ? It would be a hell of a coincidence for them not to be seated correctly front AND rear.
But its possible (I suppose) I have just done this job myself (shocks and springs) so I can see how someone might get it wrong.
This bit ....
Snug into this bit .
OK , Im showing the bottom of the springin the top photo with the stainless steel shim in place which sits between the spring and control arm (no rubber there) , but we get the idea. This...
Incidentally on my car there a 4 different part numbers for the rubber shown here giving different ride heights. I used WD40 on installation into the cupped part of the car body allowing the new (tight) rubber to 'squirm' into place a bit once the car was lowered .
Were all of the elastomer pivot bushings tightened/torqued when the car was sat under it's own weight (or the hub lifted by a separate jack before tightening ?
Bit of a mystery OP , let us know what you find.
PS: I measure ride height before starting the job from the wheel rim , not the ground, kind of means tyre pressure or slightly uneven ground is not an issue. On replacing springs , rear shocks , all new 'rubbers' ride height was exactly the same after a short test drive than it was on ancient springs of dubious heritage.
PPS . Shouldn't tell you lot this really ,but I knew one of the rear springs was broken when I took it for an MOT , it sailed through. It was just the bottom inch or two but it did not affect the ride height at all and could not be seen without getting right in there. Naughty really !
Note . This is all S203 2006 C class.
But its possible (I suppose) I have just done this job myself (shocks and springs) so I can see how someone might get it wrong.
This bit ....
Snug into this bit .
OK , Im showing the bottom of the springin the top photo with the stainless steel shim in place which sits between the spring and control arm (no rubber there) , but we get the idea. This...
Incidentally on my car there a 4 different part numbers for the rubber shown here giving different ride heights. I used WD40 on installation into the cupped part of the car body allowing the new (tight) rubber to 'squirm' into place a bit once the car was lowered .
Were all of the elastomer pivot bushings tightened/torqued when the car was sat under it's own weight (or the hub lifted by a separate jack before tightening ?
Bit of a mystery OP , let us know what you find.
PS: I measure ride height before starting the job from the wheel rim , not the ground, kind of means tyre pressure or slightly uneven ground is not an issue. On replacing springs , rear shocks , all new 'rubbers' ride height was exactly the same after a short test drive than it was on ancient springs of dubious heritage.
PPS . Shouldn't tell you lot this really ,but I knew one of the rear springs was broken when I took it for an MOT , it sailed through. It was just the bottom inch or two but it did not affect the ride height at all and could not be seen without getting right in there. Naughty really !
Note . This is all S203 2006 C class.
Last edited:
OneForTheRoad
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Hope those are the correct springs
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
100% , had a bit of a job making sure . Had to get the front ones from MB even though they are OEM made by Eibach . Eibach UK and Eibach Germany 'couldnt' help me and told me to go directly to MB . MB Newcastle got 2 Eibach genuine OEM AMG springs from Germany with the correct colour codes . Didn't have to wait too long either . I was in California recently and went to MB Modesto who found just 2 springs in the whole USA .
They declined my request to pull them from the central store to the determine the correct colour (color) code , and said I had to buy them first. That wasn't going to happen as I have had 'previous' with them and their delivery time's . From central store to Modesto Cali, not USA to UK .
Worked out alright in the end as the ones from MB Newcastle were cheaper . Just over £100 each.
They declined my request to pull them from the central store to the determine the correct colour (color) code , and said I had to buy them first. That wasn't going to happen as I have had 'previous' with them and their delivery time's . From central store to Modesto Cali, not USA to UK .
Worked out alright in the end as the ones from MB Newcastle were cheaper . Just over £100 each.
IFFY100
Active Member
Will let you know. Thanks.
BTW, was guilty of the same re rear springs. Went through 2 mots no problem!
IFFY100
Active Member
On its weight
Ok so that's eliminated a potential error. There's obviously a miss match somewhere along the line but finding it would be starting from scratch and measuring everthing. My previous car was a S Type Jag that had MOT advisorys on rear bottom ball joints. Having fitted new after market ones from ones from different suppliers the car never sat completely level when looking at it from the rear.
ray_hennig
MB Enthusiast
That sounds right. The workshop manual for mine ('91 300CE) says, "... with axle shafts horizontal ..." or words to that effect. Sounds like the same thing as "On its weight".
R
OneForTheRoad
MB Enthusiast
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I can understand why on its own weight when changing the suspension arms because the rubber bushes twist . But springs and shocks ???? , especially on the w219 chassis
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
When I torqued the nuts on the top of my new shocks the other week I did it the same time as the torqueing up of the 3 bolts (3 different Torque values) underneath the car, with a trolley jack pushing the control arm up to the previously measured (when the wheels were on and the car was on the ground) because it's impossible to get under the car when on its own wheels unless in a pit or on a ramp.
It is a technique mechanics use when a car is up in the air on a 2 post lift , they use a vertical jack or a transmission jack to move the arm before tightening the bolts.
Even though the shocks have no bearing on the height of the car (unless they are completely wrong and bottomed out) I thought it made sense. The only thing that can really determine the height of a car with coil springs is the coil springs themselves.
It is a technique mechanics use when a car is up in the air on a 2 post lift , they use a vertical jack or a transmission jack to move the arm before tightening the bolts.
Even though the shocks have no bearing on the height of the car (unless they are completely wrong and bottomed out) I thought it made sense. The only thing that can really determine the height of a car with coil springs is the coil springs themselves.
I don't know anything about your model. If the shocks are vertical it shouldn't be a problem but if there at any kind of angle they need to be tightened whilst the weight is on the suspension so as you say the bushes are not under any stress. This can be achieved by lowering the car down on to blocks under the wheels to give you enough room to get to the bolts.
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