Multiple engine warning codes 06 cls 320 cdi

[design guru]

I know it’s stating the obvious but have you had the battery checked, a dying battery can cause limp mode and raise a host of codes

 

[Cookie699]

I know it’s stating the obvious but have you had the battery checked, a dying battery can cause limp mode and raise a host of codes

No I haven't actually, I'll get my multimeter onit, I have found a thread on here with a similar problem to mine, checked this morning and I have got a 15a fuse blown for the cdi control fuse 44, so I'm going to get some shortly, disconnect the inlet port shutoff motor and see if that clears the faults, they are renown for shorting out, I'll keep you updated.


Just like to thank you all for the pointers and advance seem like a top community.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

No I haven't actually, I'll get my multimeter onit, I have found a thread on here with a similar problem to mine, checked this morning and I have got a 15a fuse blown for the cdi control fuse 44, so I'm going to get some shortly, disconnect the inlet port shutoff motor and see if that clears the faults, they are renown for shorting out, I'll keep you updated.


Just like to thank you all for the pointers and advance seem like a top community.

Maybe time for the resistor mod on the swirl flap motor ? Check the turbo seal for heavy oil deposits and/or if it's leaking .

 

[Cookie699]

Maybe time for the resistor mod on the swirl flap motor ? Check the turbo seal for heavy oil deposits and/or if it's leaking .

Doing the resistor mod, does it damage the car long term or is it just one of them pointless things they throw in diesels to control emissions.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Doing the resistor mod, does it damage the car long term or is it just one of them pointless things they throw in diesels to control emissions.

It kids the ECU that the swirl flap motor and connecting arms are still working. Otherwise you're looking at a very expensive repair bill ,to repair something that tbh doesn't exactly do much.

 

[W1ghty]

Doing the resistor mod, does it damage the car long term or is it just one of them pointless things they throw in diesels to control emissions.

Had mine in for years (and 30k+ miles) , it is a cheap easy way to confirm what your cars problem is . If you then decide later to change the swirl flap/inlet motor that’s an option .
4.7k ohm resistor into the middle two terminals of the electrical plug that goes into the inlet port motor

 

[Supernoodle]

Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or ‘EML’)
Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off.

You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008.

That's from the "MOT inspection manual" on gov website.

OPs car is an 06, so implies not grounds for failure anyway.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or ‘EML’)
Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off.

You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008.

That's from the "MOT inspection manual" on gov website.

OPs car is an 06, so implies not grounds for failure anyway.

I knew I'd seen MOT certs on cars with saying , mil light on indicating a fault . As advisory only .

 

[DSM10000]

???

Thr

Engine malfunction indicator lamp (engine management light or ‘EML’)
Turn on the ignition and check that the engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates and then goes off. On some vehicles it will be necessary to start the engine before the MIL goes off.

You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008.

That's from the "MOT inspection manual" on gov website.

OPs car is an 06, so implies not grounds for failure anyway.

????

The OP has already established that the MIL has been disabled by the previous owner.

 

[unclebuck]

2006 cls, bet the inlet manifolds are absolutely coked up , swirl flap link arms loose, the heat exchange coked up also, oil cooler seals are probably the originals as well.

Pull the egr clean it up, pull the back pressure give that a clean or replace, do the 02 sensor on the exhaust, check that that bearing is ok, may not have been replaced just tightened up for the mot, fronts are cheap and easy to replace.

If I were closer i could give you a hand ( arm deep in sockets and spanners ; ) )

once again, get it on a star so all the merc codes are read properly, have them, erased and then see what comes back, the star will tell you much more.

take it from there, I still have all my part codes here somewhere and theres loads of info on my thread where i did mine ( 2008 cls ) but there are many guys here that are willing to share advice etc to help you out. I know its a bit of a downer but if your going to keep it the help is here.

Beware.. if you do it my way.... you will replace, every seal, o'ring, nut, bolt, gasket, pipe, etc that comes off, that way everything is replaced with new and there is no issue but I am a bit wierd like that! @W1ghty will tell you that!

Oh an i dont give in on an issue, I am like an old bloodhound when it comes to finding the fault

 

[OneForTheRoad]

2006 cls, bet the inlet manifolds are absolutely coked up , swirl flap link arms loose, the heat exchange coked up also, oil cooler seals are probably the originals as well.

Pull the egr clean it up, pull the back pressure give that a clean or replace, do the 02 sensor on the exhaust, check that that bearing is ok, may not have been replaced just tightened up for the mot, fronts are cheap and easy to replace.

If I were closer i could give you a hand ( arm deep in sockets and spanners ; ) )

once again, get it on a star so all the merc codes are read properly, have them, erased and then see what comes back, the star will tell you much more.

take it from there, I still have all my part codes here somewhere and theres loads of info on my thread where i did mine ( 2008 cls ) but there are many guys here that are willing to share advice etc to help you out. I know its a bit of a downer but if your going to keep it the help is here.

Beware.. if you do it my way.... you will replace, every seal, o'ring, nut, bolt, gasket, pipe, etc that comes off, that way everything is replaced with new and there is no issue but I am a bit wierd like that! @W1ghty will tell you that!

Oh an i dont give in on an issue, I am like an old bloodhound when it comes to finding the fault

Just the usual Om642 issues then

 

[Supernoodle]

???

Thr

????

The OP has already established that the MIL has been disabled by the previous owner.

That's as maybe but just clarifying

An illuminated Check Engine Light that stays on when the engine is running is an MOT fail.

If the CEL doesn't illuminate when the ignition is turned on is also a fail

 

[W1ghty]

Just the usual Om642 issues then

On the bright side , all om642 issues are well known and documented for the diy’er

 

[OneForTheRoad]

On the bright side , all om642 issues are well known and documented for the diy’er

I'm trying my best to run mine as clean as possible, only 11k when I bought it. Hopefully to avoid if that's possible,these issues . Now that we know of them. God save the salmon tin .

 

[W1ghty]

I'm trying my best to run mine as clean as possible, only 11k when I bought it. Hopefully to avoid if that's possible,these issues . Now that we know of them. God save the salmon tin .

I think I paid £19k for mine back in 2011 from MB , with 20k miles on it . Now at 125k miles . Still love it

 

[OneForTheRoad]

I think I paid £19k for mine back in 2011 from MB , with 20k miles on it . Now at 125k miles . Still love it

I'm on 25k , got some catching up to do.

 

[Cookie699]

Well Fellas, all in all its been a good day, fuse 44 was blown replaced and did the resistor mod, once i did that all faults were cleared but the turbo actuator flagged up, rang about everyone I spoke to wanted me to buy a turbo, found a lovely thread on here that instructed me to solder broken links inside the actuator (Only one was at fault) put it all back together all cleared cost me 58p and runs like a dream, boy she's got some power, ordered new turbo and breather seals as they were slightly perished but I'm a happy man (child at heart) going to get her serviced in a couple of weeks and hopefully all being well I know where I'm upto.

I would like to thank you all for your time and comments, I will definitely be sticking around on here, good community and good people

 

[DSM10000]

Well Fellas, all in all its been a good day, fuse 44 was blown replaced and did the resistor mod, once i did that all faults were cleared but the turbo actuator flagged up, rang about everyone I spoke to wanted me to buy a turbo, found a lovely thread on here that instructed me to solder broken links inside the actuator (Only one was at fault) put it all back together all cleared cost me 58p and runs like a dream, boy she's got some power, ordered new turbo and breather seals as they were slightly perished but I'm a happy man (child at heart) going to get her serviced in a couple of weeks and hopefully all being well I know where I'm upto.

I would like to thank you all for your time and comments, I will definitely be sticking around on here, good community and good people

Don't forget to take the £300 offered toward the diagnostics

 

[DSM10000]

That's as maybe but just clarifying

 

[W1ghty]

Well Fellas, all in all its been a good day, fuse 44 was blown replaced and did the resistor mod, once i did that all faults were cleared but the turbo actuator flagged up, rang about everyone I spoke to wanted me to buy a turbo, found a lovely thread on here that instructed me to solder broken links inside the actuator (Only one was at fault) put it all back together all cleared cost me 58p and runs like a dream, boy she's got some power, ordered new turbo and breather seals as they were slightly perished but I'm a happy man (child at heart) going to get her serviced in a couple of weeks and hopefully all being well I know where I'm upto.

I would like to thank you all for your time and comments, I will definitely be sticking around on here, good community and good people

Well played Sir !
Remove the exhaust back pressure sensor (by the turbo ) and give the underside hole a spray clean (24mm deep socket, don’t drop the chrome washer underneath it !)
If the pcv tube is original (the orange seal at the end that goes into the batwing hasn’t got a silver clamp on the orange seal ) , it’s worth changing to stop more oil blowback going through the turbo .