Hi all
There has been quite a bit of what products are best to use for different tasks around car cleaning. Below are what my personal favourites that I am using this year. This is by no means my whole collection, but what im favoriting.
When I personally clean a car, I always start with the wheels. I suggest you purchase yourself a wheel bucket seperate to your wash buckets. The wheel bucket is always going to get really dirty, so you dont want to becross contaminating wash buckets. I personally use these buckets with lids and grit guards from elite car care as they are super tough.
For all wheels I always start with bilberry wheel cleaner. Its safe and works very well at removing just the grime.
For tyres and arches, my choice is surfex HD. Great degreaser and can be mixed at many ratios.
If the wheels are really bad, I tend to hit them with iron x, to really give them that deep clean. This is the bottle below with the differeant brushes I would use to clean the wheels and tyres.
After the wheels and arches are rinsed off I start on the door shuts. For this I use Meg's APC and a seperate detailing brush. As you can tell there alot cleaner then the wheel brushes
To rinse door shuts I will just use an open hose as to not make the car wet. Or a watering can is pretty good for this too This is the same procedure to complete the petrol cap, grille, badges, gaps, shuts etc.
Right now its time for the snow foam. For this I use BH Autofoam through a HD lance set up for karcher HD's. I have 2 Karcher HD's, one portable for the van and a all sining all dancing Hot water one.(Can't remember model's but will get pic's shortly.
If I have a bug splatter problem, I always find poorboys bug squash my weapon of choice:
Also if I have some serious traffic film build up dodo juice crudzilla is an excellent product.
After this is completed and rinsed, it's time for washing. I use the zaino twins. The are crazy expensive, but they are soooo strong, so in the long run they are worth having.
For washing the top half of cars I like to use the dodo juice short haired wookie and dodo juice supernatural sponge.
and for the lower half of cars a opti-mitt or a swissvax waschpudel.
At the moment, these I my choices of shampoo's:
After washing you may or may not want to give your car a chemical bath, for which I use Iron X. After this I de tar the car and for this I use tardis:
Once all the wet stages are out the way, its time to dry. For this I use the elite car care's super plush deluxe large drying towels. I have used many over the years but nothing has yet beat these 70/30 towels. So my personal choice.
Once the car id dry, its time to clay. For this, I personally like using dodo juice gentle grey and Megs last touch. Im not a fan of aggressive clays as you have iron x now to take serious fallout out the paint. Plus u will have to follow up with some type of machine polishing with agressive clay. As it will marr your paint like crazy.
After the claying stage, it's time to give the paint and glass a thorough IPA wipedown. I mix this with water at about 30/70 as it removes all silicone fillers from the paint, so you can see the cars true finish. Lots of polishes are great at filling defects, but were here to remove them completly.
Once this is complete we can check depths and see under differant light sources the depth of the damage. For this I use the following:
Once you have assessed the situation its time to get the Machine polisher. As of last year I use the follwing rotary and the following d.a. The 3M is super light but after 6 months it did need the brushes replaced. But this was said by 3M, it was because I had completed 700 hours in 6 months so im sure most will be fine.
Now I do occasionally use 3M compounds and polishes but only for seprate jobs. I never use them together in stages for correction as there just not advanced as new products are. But they do work well when needed. Fast cut plus is great when you really need to remove some serious defects. But it creates more dust then your lungs would like, so rarely ever use it. But ultafina SE has held its realm as my favourite refining polish ever. Its just wonderful and leaves the most liquid wet finish on a perfectly corrected surface.
But for me, nothing touches scholl concepts range. The compounds, polishes and pads are so versatile its ridiculous. There are so many combinations that a 3 stage process is now a single stage process. They can work in a large temperature range, they rarely heat up and also have long working times, so you can really attack that panel. They are awesome.
Now that all your paint has been compounded, polished and refined, you will want to make sure you have given the paint a thorough IPA wipedown. This will ensure you havn't masked any defects up as compounds and polishes will have silicone in them. Now if your were going down the crystal laquer route, this would be where you would start applying (If you know how) Otherise if its selants and waxes your doing, then its time for a pre wax cleaner fluid. These are my personal favourites:
Once applied its time for your sealant or wax. There many ways of doing this with multi layers as well as the zaino zfx accelerator kits etc.
These are my personal favourite sealant polishes.
and if you want to layer them up with some spray sealants then these are my choices.
Or your hard waxes. Due to popularity of crystal laquer protection I sold alot of my waxes and only keeped what I actually use on a daily basis. Here is some dodo juice waxes:
With alot of matte vinyl and paint I work on I use the full swissvax opague kit along with its wax.
There has been quite a bit of what products are best to use for different tasks around car cleaning. Below are what my personal favourites that I am using this year. This is by no means my whole collection, but what im favoriting.
When I personally clean a car, I always start with the wheels. I suggest you purchase yourself a wheel bucket seperate to your wash buckets. The wheel bucket is always going to get really dirty, so you dont want to becross contaminating wash buckets. I personally use these buckets with lids and grit guards from elite car care as they are super tough.
For all wheels I always start with bilberry wheel cleaner. Its safe and works very well at removing just the grime.
For tyres and arches, my choice is surfex HD. Great degreaser and can be mixed at many ratios.
If the wheels are really bad, I tend to hit them with iron x, to really give them that deep clean. This is the bottle below with the differeant brushes I would use to clean the wheels and tyres.
After the wheels and arches are rinsed off I start on the door shuts. For this I use Meg's APC and a seperate detailing brush. As you can tell there alot cleaner then the wheel brushes
To rinse door shuts I will just use an open hose as to not make the car wet. Or a watering can is pretty good for this too
This is the same procedure to complete the petrol cap, grille, badges, gaps, shuts etc.Right now its time for the snow foam. For this I use BH Autofoam through a HD lance set up for karcher HD's. I have 2 Karcher HD's, one portable for the van and a all sining all dancing Hot water one.(Can't remember model's but will get pic's shortly.
If I have a bug splatter problem, I always find poorboys bug squash my weapon of choice:
Also if I have some serious traffic film build up dodo juice crudzilla is an excellent product.
After this is completed and rinsed, it's time for washing. I use the zaino twins. The are crazy expensive, but they are soooo strong, so in the long run they are worth having.
For washing the top half of cars I like to use the dodo juice short haired wookie and dodo juice supernatural sponge.
and for the lower half of cars a opti-mitt or a swissvax waschpudel.
At the moment, these I my choices of shampoo's:
After washing you may or may not want to give your car a chemical bath, for which I use Iron X. After this I de tar the car and for this I use tardis:
Once all the wet stages are out the way, its time to dry. For this I use the elite car care's super plush deluxe large drying towels. I have used many over the years but nothing has yet beat these 70/30 towels. So my personal choice.
Once the car id dry, its time to clay. For this, I personally like using dodo juice gentle grey and Megs last touch. Im not a fan of aggressive clays as you have iron x now to take serious fallout out the paint. Plus u will have to follow up with some type of machine polishing with agressive clay. As it will marr your paint like crazy.
After the claying stage, it's time to give the paint and glass a thorough IPA wipedown. I mix this with water at about 30/70 as it removes all silicone fillers from the paint, so you can see the cars true finish. Lots of polishes are great at filling defects, but were here to remove them completly.
Once this is complete we can check depths and see under differant light sources the depth of the damage. For this I use the following:
Once you have assessed the situation its time to get the Machine polisher. As of last year I use the follwing rotary and the following d.a. The 3M is super light but after 6 months it did need the brushes replaced. But this was said by 3M, it was because I had completed 700 hours in 6 months so im sure most will be fine.
Now I do occasionally use 3M compounds and polishes but only for seprate jobs. I never use them together in stages for correction as there just not advanced as new products are. But they do work well when needed. Fast cut plus is great when you really need to remove some serious defects. But it creates more dust then your lungs would like, so rarely ever use it. But ultafina SE has held its realm as my favourite refining polish ever. Its just wonderful and leaves the most liquid wet finish on a perfectly corrected surface.
But for me, nothing touches scholl concepts range. The compounds, polishes and pads are so versatile its ridiculous. There are so many combinations that a 3 stage process is now a single stage process. They can work in a large temperature range, they rarely heat up and also have long working times, so you can really attack that panel. They are awesome.
Now that all your paint has been compounded, polished and refined, you will want to make sure you have given the paint a thorough IPA wipedown. This will ensure you havn't masked any defects up as compounds and polishes will have silicone in them. Now if your were going down the crystal laquer route, this would be where you would start applying (If you know how) Otherise if its selants and waxes your doing, then its time for a pre wax cleaner fluid. These are my personal favourites:
Once applied its time for your sealant or wax. There many ways of doing this with multi layers as well as the zaino zfx accelerator kits etc.
These are my personal favourite sealant polishes.
and if you want to layer them up with some spray sealants then these are my choices.
Or your hard waxes. Due to popularity of crystal laquer protection I sold alot of my waxes and only keeped what I actually use on a daily basis. Here is some dodo juice waxes:
With alot of matte vinyl and paint I work on I use the full swissvax opague kit along with its wax.
I had a look at your web site - very impressed.
, but cant for the life of me get it anywhere ! Can you help or suggest someone who has some in stock. I was going for Black Hole, but it appears that Prima Amigo is the d b !!
