New CLS350 owner - A hello and some questions :-)

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or here Febi is Bilstein who just happen to Engineer many parts for not only MB but the likes of Porsche etc, think the posters talking out his orifice tbh hell why not just rebuild the whole car!
Febi Bilstein is a partnership. And OEM merchandise produced for Porche on order is not the same as to what they sell in the aftermarket batches. Legally it cannot be copied, there will be deviations. From experience I've had better quality merchandise from MB OEM, Hengst, and Mann for general maintenance.
 
If the aircon light is blinking the system has turned off probably as you feel, the refridgerant has escaped and the pressure sensor has turned it off.. Two points from my own experience. 1) If gas is escaping even very slowly, then it is probably a leak from the condensor. 2) if the light is blinking and you recharge the system and it still doesnt work, you may need to clear the codes on the a/c even though there is no code showing! Aparently the refrigerant pressure sensor doesnt have a code but sometimes the fault still needs to be cleared. (no, didnt make sense to me either but it worked!)
Good choice of tyre by the way, quiet comfortable and good grip.
Definitely true with MB cars. After each part replacement or service, star computer adoption and clearing of codes is necessary. Once I lost the lumbar support due to some low voltage and options not checked correctly by the mb tech.
 
Start with the 100K service overhaul. Engine, and tranny mounts, only from MB. Febi is low quality grade merchandise, seek superior quality if you want to skip mb, not below OEM grade. Brake disc's will need to be replaced, at low speeds they will cause a partial vibration along with the engine and tranny mounts, and tie rods. Check complete suspension bushing all around to gauge the life on the components. Your turbo charger from Garrett needs to be inspected and change the o rings on the metal pipe, they will crack during the refitting. Transmission 722.9 valves, conductor plate, filter, o rings, and gasket would be a good replacement OEM or Mann, get the fluid out of the torque converter as well, pick up fuchs Titan 134 or Motul (236.14). Wheel bearings, serpentine belt tensioner and the belt non OEM would suffice. Power steering pump and rack check is a must, and do flush out the fluid same as tranny fluid would be adequate. Give the brake lines a check and replace the fluid with top grade motul rbf series for nimble braking. 2 intake seals would always need replacement whenever we swap the air filters out, weak seals. Change the intercooler seals with new upgraded purple ones from MB. The best tires after 3 sets I've liked are Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (released this year), I've played with Conti Sport Contact 5, Pirelli P Zero, and Pirelli p7. Out of this lot PS 4S are the best for comfort and quick cornering. Airmatic would require a recalibration of the star computer shows any deviation in the standing levels. Only invest in Mercedes-Benz Star diagnostics for this car, rest of all is not great. Xentry is good for certain things, but star is always better to have nevertheless. Brake sensors never need to be MB, any cheap Chinese sensor will do. As for the ac compressor and gas, o rings, hoses, evaporator, expansion valve, just stick to MB, other stuff is more prone to weak quality checks and will cause leaks. Bulbs, I prefer German Made Philips or Osram, and Leds have to be MB OEM replacement, I've tried cheap Taiwan and Chinese led head lamp and tail lamp replacement and they didn't last 2 years, before I could hit the 7 month mark a few failures were eminent, after 2 years they were useless. Only MB solutions for lighting. For differential I've only used MB and 3rd party Motul 75w90 synthetic oil. Brake pads Textar has some great A grade rating pads which were better than Brembo of the same grade, they lasted longer and performed better when cold and hot. At all costs avoid apple car play Chinese and Malaysian kits and Android in dash system, they will ruin the MB system and when the aftermarket stuff fails, everything connected to the system will be on hold. Last bit change the airmatic filter frequently, get it OEM or from Mann, replace all fuel injectors and fuel filters with gaskets and o rings, OEM.

*Do not use any flushing chemicals, hoses, pipes, and o rings are old, seals are bound to be damaged by doing so.

**Motul Xmax 0W40 is great for the engine, along with Hengst oil filters, but not hengst white o rings.

***BMC air filters are the best, get the Ecu, transmission, and airmatic tuned for better performance from a specialist aim for 20% higher power, stiffness on airmatic movement, and quick shifts. BenzNinja is great for this job, look him up.


****Service intervals from personal experience
1. Brake fluid 10K KM or 2 years
2. Engine oil 5K KM or 1 year
3. Coolant 30K KM or 2 years
4. Diff fluid 20K KM or 2 years
5. Tranny 30K or 2 years
6. Steering fluid 40K or 3 years
7. Cabin ac filter every year
8. Airmatic Air filter every 2 years
9. Air filter, if bmc clean them twice in a year, if OEM grade replace at the least each year.
What should he do in the afternoon?
 
20 miles In a month?
*from 'personal experience' would indicate my opinion, not a 'scientific reasoning'. This answer was not directed for you. And it's 10K KM or 1 year, when we replace the OEM air filter.
I doubt you ever sent your used oil batches from any of your cars after use to see how well the oil is after a 6k to 7k run from the tranny, engine or diff. Even in the UK the brake fluid does contaminate from moisture. This is not India V UK.
Please avoid being rude and coming off as offensive.
To be honest I have more than a little knowledge about oils and was quite heavily involved in evaluating poly alfa vs Ester oils in Motorbike racing engines so feel I have some knowledge of the subject, standard cars filled with proper spec oil and maintained should easily last 500k indeed many MB Taxis last well over that and HGVs can do a million miles between major rebuilds, oil is not only a lubricant but its designed to keep the ash particles that are too small for the filter etc in suspension, if you analyse an oil and it has excess particles of metal in it then I suggest your oil is not doing its job ie resisiting the mechanical compression between moving parts.
Ohh and oil should NEVER look nice and clean once its in an Engine if it is where is all the soot etc being deposited.
 
I've had issues with their bolts for transmission pan, filter, gasket and oil. They were not as great as OEM grade and cost 10% of Daimler OEM parts. It is my personal opinion, you pick what you like. I'm happy with the dealership OEM merch, motul and Mann.
I would suggest the issue is with the origin of said parts, Febi Bilstein cannot sell OEM quality parts that are not up to standard, how long do you think it would take as an example Mercedes to dump them should the quality of what they sell be poor, you can just see the salesman " ohh we have bilstein developed suspension" Customer " am not buying that its rubbish good bye" Bilstein is recognised and acknowledged as a premier parts supplier and development partner to some of the worlds biggest competition and road going vehicles what twaddle
 
To be honest I have more than a little knowledge about oils and was quite heavily involved in evaluating poly alfa vs Ester oils in Motorbike racing engines so feel I have some knowledge of the subject, standard cars filled with proper spec oil and maintained should easily last 500k indeed many MB Taxis last well over that and HGVs can do a million miles between major rebuilds, oil is not only a lubricant but its designed to keep the ash particles that are too small for the filter etc in suspension, if you analyse an oil and it has excess particles of metal in it then I suggest your oil is not doing its job ie resisiting the mechanical compression between moving parts.
Ohh and oil should NEVER look nice and clean once its in an Engine if it is where is all the soot etc being deposited.
I appreciate your response. But your evaluation of racing oils is not the same as consumer grade oils. Racing oils are thrown out after the track session, consumer grade oils are used for minimum 12K KM with new synthetic formulas, again minimum. I've used motul 300V and v2 formulations in our stage 2 tuned k24z, and after a 500 KM spirited run its fairly lost the additives. Carbon in any engine oil to a greater extent is never a good sign, and changing oil frequently is keeping this to a low quantity. Every mechanical component will shed out some particles, it's impossible to have any tranny, diff or engine which doesn't. I don't know how you have services carried out on the transmission, but the valve filters require a magnetic pull of the debris from the tiny strainers as per Daimler procedure, which they follow here. ZF procures good oil that is tested to last 100K KM, but from my experience at 20K I've seen enough junk in the samples from ZF, Titan or Motul tranny samples. I've even seen the same on the CVT, idemitsu and Motul samples, it uses a very small filter and Honda has no standard required to replace or service the tranny until it slips, they only change the cvt fluid at 40K and never change diff fluid until 100K KM. This is a bad practice. I prefer honda tiny AWD diff fluid at a year or 10K KM and cvt filter at 20K, fluid every 10K.
 
20 miles In a month?
*from 'personal experience' would indicate my opinion, not a 'scientific reasoning'. This answer was not directed for you. And it's 10K KM or 1 year, when we replace the OEM air filter.
I doubt you ever sent your used oil batches from any of your cars after use to see how well the oil is after a 6k to 7k run from the tranny, engine or diff. Even in the UK the brake fluid does contaminate from moisture. This is not India V UK.
Please avoid being rude and coming off as offensive.

At no point in his reply is he being either rude or offensive he is stating his own personal experience. he also stated that he lived there for 5 years so I would assume he is speaking from experience given that he clearly states that.

To say "this answer was not directed to you" is some what of a null point as posting it on the forum it is therefore directed at every member.

This thread was to help a new member with his recent purchase of his cls, I think that takes more priority.

Perhaps you should start your own thread and continue this discussion there, that way we can continue to help to original poster of the thread should he still need help from the members.
 
I would suggest the issue is with the origin of said parts, Febi Bilstein cannot sell OEM quality parts that are not up to standard, how long do you think it would take as an example Mercedes to dump them should the quality of what they sell be poor, you can just see the salesman " ohh we have bilstein developed suspension" Customer " am not buying that its rubbish good bye" Bilstein is recognised and acknowledged as a premier parts supplier and development partner to some of the worlds biggest competition and road going vehicles what twaddle
Again this is irrelevant. Aftermarket is OEM equivalent, but the not same as OEM. What MB orders febi to produce, it is sent to Daimler. What febi manufactures as aftermarket is not governed by MB, febi claims as good as OEM, but not OEM. Either way I don't have time for these arguments. Everything I stated was for the OP not you. And my answers are from personal experience, I've stated this as an opinion multiple times. You are biased, and are looking for a victory argument. I'm not here for that. For these reasons I don't believe you are offering anything significant.
 
At no point in his reply is he being either rude or offensive he is stating his own personal experience. he also stated that he lived there for 5 years so I would assume he is speaking from experience given that he clearly states that.

To say "this answer was not directed to you" is some what of a null point as posting it on the forum it is therefore directed at every member.

This thread was to help a new member with his recent purchase of his cls, I think that takes more priority.

Perhaps you should start your own thread and continue this discussion there, that way we can continue to help to original poster of the thread should he still need help from the members.
Show me where I did not direct my initial post to the OP?
Is your current post not directed towards me?

How is Sutty's post not directed at me if he just quoted me? Claimed I wrote out of my 'oriface' ? And later stated I travelled only 20 Mile in a month, based on my ethnicity? How is this not offensive? Every being in my nation is just travelling 20 mi in a Month? And all our offices are located 25 mi? His 5 years are equivalent to our 600 year old lineage? So he has more experience of living, driving here by taking a cab, while we live and drive here? What of all the lands I own across state lines and travel to and from? Oh wait, it's just 25 miles apart? I strongly believe you both are making this a debate and you want a fight. I'm not in this for recognition nor an award. I just offered my personal non biased, non racist car maintenence tips, unlike the remarks the two of you are squandering with the utmost rudeness. Suit yourself.
 
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Febi Bilstein is a partnership. And OEM merchandise produced for Porche on order is not the same as to what they sell in the aftermarket batches. Legally it cannot be copied, there will be deviations. From experience I've had better quality merchandise from MB OEM, Hengst, and Mann for general maintenance.
Hi ,
Start with the 100K service overhaul. Engine, and tranny mounts, only from MB. Febi is low quality grade merchandise, seek superior quality if you want to skip mb, not below OEM grade. Brake disc's will need to be replaced, at low speeds they will cause a partial vibration along with the engine and tranny mounts, and tie rods. Check complete suspension bushing all around to gauge the life on the components. Your turbo charger from Garrett needs to be inspected and change the o rings on the metal pipe, they will crack during the refitting. Transmission 722.9 valves, conductor plate, filter, o rings, and gasket would be a good replacement OEM or Mann, get the fluid out of the torque converter as well, pick up fuchs Titan 134 or Motul (236.14). Wheel bearings, serpentine belt tensioner and the belt non OEM would suffice. Power steering pump and rack check is a must, and do flush out the fluid same as tranny fluid would be adequate. Give the brake lines a check and replace the fluid with top grade motul rbf series for nimble braking. 2 intake seals would always need replacement whenever we swap the air filters out, weak seals. Change the intercooler seals with new upgraded purple ones from MB. The best tires after 3 sets I've liked are Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (released this year), I've played with Conti Sport Contact 5, Pirelli P Zero, and Pirelli p7. Out of this lot PS 4S are the best for comfort and quick cornering. Airmatic would require a recalibration of the star computer shows any deviation in the standing levels. Only invest in Mercedes-Benz Star diagnostics for this car, rest of all is not great. Xentry is good for certain things, but star is always better to have nevertheless. Brake sensors never need to be MB, any cheap Chinese sensor will do. As for the ac compressor and gas, o rings, hoses, evaporator, expansion valve, just stick to MB, other stuff is more prone to weak quality checks and will cause leaks. Bulbs, I prefer German Made Philips or Osram, and Leds have to be MB OEM replacement, I've tried cheap Taiwan and Chinese led head lamp and tail lamp replacement and they didn't last 2 years, before I could hit the 7 month mark a few failures were eminent, after 2 years they were useless. Only MB solutions for lighting. For differential I've only used MB and 3rd party Motul 75w90 synthetic oil. Brake pads Textar has some great A grade rating pads which were better than Brembo of the same grade, they lasted longer and performed better when cold and hot. At all costs avoid apple car play Chinese and Malaysian kits and Android in dash system, they will ruin the MB system and when the aftermarket stuff fails, everything connected to the system will be on hold. Last bit change the airmatic filter frequently, get it OEM or from Mann, replace all fuel injectors and fuel filters with gaskets and o rings, OEM.

*Do not use any flushing chemicals, hoses, pipes, and o rings are old, seals are bound to be damaged by doing so.

**Motul Xmax 0W40 is great for the engine, along with Hengst oil filters, but not hengst white o rings.

***BMC air filters are the best, get the Ecu, transmission, and airmatic tuned for better performance from a specialist aim for 20% higher power, stiffness on airmatic movement, and quick shifts. BenzNinja is great for this job, look him up.


****Service intervals from personal experience
1. Brake fluid 10K KM or 2 years
2. Engine oil 5K KM or 1 year
3. Coolant 30K KM or 2 years
4. Diff fluid 20K KM or 2 years
5. Tranny 30K or 2 years
6. Steering fluid 40K or 3 years
7. Cabin ac filter every year
8. Airmatic Air filter every 2 years
9. Air filter, if bmc clean them twice in a year, if OEM grade replace at the least each year.
Hi , the only problem I see with your comment is that in the UK the service requirements you suggest may cost more than the car is worth.

In normal times I have my car serviced every six months and that equates to 3000 miles per year.

In the UK service intervals are extended ( up to 15,000 miles per year ) to keep the fleet managers happy.

I have always taken out Mercedes service plans that I feel that gives good value for money for its annual service and covers all aspects of the requirements that Mercedes require over time.

Second hand values of Mercedes cars have never been good so I can understand the temptation to skip services and pass the known problems onto the next owner.

Until pre owned cars have better residual values against badly serviced cars the UK problem on servicing won't go away.

I would suspect the Mercedes cars supplied to the Indian market do have differences against EU cars.
 
Hi ,

Hi , the only problem I see with your comment is that in the UK the service requirements you suggest may cost more than the car is worth.

In normal times I have my car serviced every six months and that equates to 3000 miles per year.

In the UK service intervals are extended ( up to 15,000 miles per year ) to keep the fleet managers happy.

I have always taken out Mercedes service plans that I feel that gives good value for money for its annual service and covers all aspects of the requirements that Mercedes require over time.

Second hand values of Mercedes cars have never been good so I can understand the temptation to skip services and pass the known problems onto the next owner.

Until pre owned cars have better residual values against badly serviced cars the UK problem on servicing won't go away.

I would suspect the Mercedes cars supplied to the Indian market do have differences against EU cars.
Daimler cars supplied come in 2 formats. CBU, which are imported from Germany and attain 120% tax, plus 20% road tax, shipping fee and the base price of the car. Then there are the Indian assembled varainats with 30% tax and 10% road tax. Every service aspect I listed is from my personal choice, and recommended by Mercedes-Benz specialists here. Even I prefer to change sooner than what I have listed, but in no way is this an official recommendation from an authority or an enforcement to the OP. After warranty any car is not cheap to maintain, so it doesn't equate to dump and buy new with 140% taxes plus shipping every 5 years for the good pure CBU imports. For you Germany is not far and you have LR and Jag for great prices.

As far as oils and service goes, I change much sooner than what I have listed. I'm paranoid about maintenance. Again what I posted was recommended to me by three MB technicians and two third party MB workshop owners.

I stand to benefit nothing here. I got all the points I shared by paying others. Here this op gets it for free.
 
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Guys​


Give it a rest, we all want to help each other - no need for hostilities
Agreed. But I'm not attacking anyone. May you please check how this started and who directed this off topic? Perhaps that will do justice, if you would be polite enough to administer to that? From my side You the admin have an assurance. But to call me bad is an excuse without justification. So I would strongly urge you to correct yourself from being ignorant and hurting sentiment of another person.
 
Agreed. But I'm not attacking anyone. May you please check how this started and who directed this off topic? Perhaps that will do justice, if you would be polite enough to administer to that? From my side You the admin have an assurance. But to call me bad is an excuse without justification. So I would strongly urge you to correct yourself from being ignorant and hurting sentiment of another person.
You were rude about my Renault!
 
Aidroos, take the hint; if I were you I would stop digging now, I really would. ;)
 
It is but it's just going nowhere and these sorts of differences of opinion have a habit of spiralling down 👍
Cheers. Thanks for 7 reports.
 

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