OM642 Turbo actuator fault or stuck Vanes?

[unclebuck]

Pull the egr valve and give it a good clean if you havent already, you can take the cover off as in my thread, give that a clean and move the valve down and spray an egr cleaner onto it.

For mine i used autoglym engine degreaser and sprayed loads in and moved the valve up and down as there was crud inside the valve stem hole, it took a few back and fores but it cleaned out after a min or so. Wiped it off, sprayed egr clener in there and wiped clean, also the lower vlave, seat and stem were cleaned also.

Wish you could attach a video here, would make for some nice tutorials rather than putting them on a you tube channel.

 

[SteveFromAvantgarde]

In my experience I have never had any success in replacing the actuators, mainly because the vane speed of the turbo hasnt been calibrated to the wastegate opening correctly. I always replace the turbo charger, and do the inlet port shut off motor at the same time as you have it all apart.

 

[johnsco]

I had similar problems in this area some years ago .... All cured by the fitting of a reconditioned turbo from Essex Turbos.
A reasonable price and a very helpful company to deal with.
That was 60,000 miles ago and there have been no problems.
BUT
I do agree that turbos operate in a very-demanding, high-speed, high-acceleration, high-temperature environment.
Failures are part of life !!

 

[DSM10000]

Pull the egr valve and give it a good clean if you havent already, you can take the cover off as in my thread, give that a clean and move the valve down and spray an egr cleaner onto it.

For mine i used autoglym engine degreaser and sprayed loads in and moved the valve up and down as there was crud inside the valve stem hole, it took a few back and fores but it cleaned out after a min or so. Wiped it off, sprayed egr clener in there and wiped clean, also the lower vlave, seat and stem were cleaned also.

Wish you could attach a video here, would make for some nice tutorials rather than putting them on a you tube channel.

I tried to remove the cover but it didn't want to move, we are away for the weekend so I'll have a look when we return on Monday.

When the EGR Valve is removed do you need to replace a gasket or does it seal in another way?

Many thanks.

 

[unclebuck]

I tried to remove the cover but it didn't want to move.
We are away for the weekend so I'll have a look when we return on Monday.

When the EGR Valve is removed do you need to replace a gasket or does it seal in another way?

Many thanks.

There is a rubber large o ring seal that i replaced on mine. the cover will be stuck around the edges because of dirt and crud over the years. It will come off just take your time with the tabs. i tapped the sides of mine gently until it loosened.

if you can put a pic of yours up so i can see which model it is, undo the two bolts holding it in, then you probably won't be able to just pull it out. I found a thin edged chisel best for removing mine the first time, just gently tap it flat side down into the gap between the egr and the manifold and it will start to lift up.

Then just clean it all up, if the lower section is all coked up, get some mr muscle oven cleaner spray it on, let it soak for a while then with a good stiff brush and some water clean it away, repeat as needed.

once its out though pop a piccy up, will help you if i can from there.

 

[DSM10000]

Update.

Due to many factors including inclement weather, other things needing my time etc and convincing myself I needed a new torque wrench to safely replace the bolts I haven't, as yet, taken out the EGR Valve.

I finally started to remove it earlier, I unclipped the connector plug, checked the size of the Torx headed bolts, and then spent a fruitless 45 minutes looking for the Torx sockets I knew I had.

Eventually realising that they had been borrowed I set of to retrieve them and on return realised that I hadn't plugged the electrical connector back.

The interesting thing was that the car ran much better on the journey.

The major flat spot around 2000 had gone as had the slight surging of the at a constant rpm and when asked to accelerate it did so with noticeably more urgency and smoothness.

The only slight downside I noticed was that boost started to build slightly higher than previously.

By the time I returned it was too late to remove the valve tonight but I was wondering if the above improvements point to a defunct EGR or a blocked one?

I will get around to removing it at some point!

 

[unclebuck]

Update.

Due to many factors including inclement weather, other things needing my time etc and convincing myself I needed a new torque wrench to safely replace the bolts I haven't, as yet, taken out the EGR Valve.

I finally started to remove it earlier, I unclipped the connector plug, checked the size of the Torx headed bolts, and then spent a fruitless 45 minutes looking for the Torx sockets I knew I had.

Eventually realising that they had been borrowed I set of to retrieve them and on return realised that I hadn't plugged the electrical connector back.

The interesting thing was that the car ran much better on the journey.

The major flat spot around 2000 had gone as had the slight surging of the at a constant rpm and when asked to accelerate it did so with noticeably more urgency and smoothness.

The only slight downside I noticed was that boost started to build slightly higher than previously.

By the time I returned it was too late to remove the valve tonight but I was wondering if the above improvements point to a defunct EGR or a blocked one?

I will get around to removing it at some point!

also take the back pressure sensor off next to it, careful not to lose the metal crush ring seal. I sprayed some cleaner in my old merc one the other day and cleaned it all out using cotton swabs and blue workshop tissue twisted up to get rid of soot, my limp mode went and its been back to normal ever since.

egr probably just needs a good clean, but cleaning the sensor as well takes care of both issues, also if the back pressure sensor has never been changed since you have owned it then its time to change it.

 

[DSM10000]

also take the back pressure sensor off next to it, careful not to lose the metal crush ring seal. I sprayed some cleaner in my old merc one the other day and cleaned it all out using cotton swabs and blue workshop tissue twisted up to get rid of soot, my limp mode went and its been back to normal ever since.

egr probably just needs a good clean, but cleaning the sensor as well takes care of both issues, also if the back pressure sensor has never been changed since you have owned it then its time to change it.

Thank you for taking the time to explain that.

Why would disconnecting the EGR electrically make the car run better?

Am I likely to cause any problem leaving it disconnected until I can get around to removing the valve? It might be a 3 or 4 days as we have things planned this week that will take priority.

 

[unclebuck]

Thank you for taking the time to explain that.

Why would disconnecting the EGR electrically make the car run better?

Am I likely to cause any problem leaving it disconnected until I can get around to removing the valve?

It might be a 3 or 4 days as we have things planned this week that will take priority.

Really needs to be connected it is probably operating, it just depends if its all coked up how much is flowing through the valve when opened. When I was looking online at the state of other egr valves it was quite surprising how coked up they get.

Take a look at this video similar egr valve however mine was no where near this bad.

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Clean it the same way, some good old mr muscle, you can take the cap off as well and check the swing arm, clean and grease it if you want to. on my thread here intake manifolds, oil cooler seals | Engine

 

[DSM10000]

Thinking ahead, the EGR valve may well need replacing.

MB Edinburgh quoted £326

Car parts 4 Less have this one plus an extra 20% off for a first-time customer making it £226

Pierburg | Car Parts 4 Less

Pierburg at the lowest UK prices from Car Parts 4 Less UK’s No.1 for Car Accessories, Car Styling & Car Care. Buy today Online, In store or by Phone + Branches Nationwide – Next Day UK Free Delivery.

www.carparts4less.co.uk

Is Pierburg a decent manufacturer?

 

[Smiley]

Yes Pierburg is excellent; could well be OE supplier.

 

[unclebuck]

Thinking ahead, the EGR valve may well need replacing.

MB Edinburgh quoted £326

Car parts 4 Less have this one plus an extra 20% off for a first-time customer making it £226

Pierburg | Car Parts 4 Less

Pierburg at the lowest UK prices from Car Parts 4 Less UK’s No.1 for Car Accessories, Car Styling & Car Care. Buy today Online, In store or by Phone + Branches Nationwide – Next Day UK Free Delivery.

www.carparts4less.co.uk

Is Pierburg a decent manufacturer?

yep merc fit pierburg on the cars anyway