S210 Key in ignition problem.

[ringway]

On my 210 E-Class, my key doesn't seem to be recognised straight away by the ignition barrel.

The usual "buzz" when the key enters the barrel isn't always there. The problem has only surfaced today, but I've had a few instances where I've had to keep inserting/removing the key to be able to be allowed to start the car.

I've just tried the spare key which performed better but still not as it should. I'm hoping that it's a key-battery fault because I seem to recall a new ignition barrel unit being expensive and only programmable by the main dealer.


TIA.

Paul.

 

[renault12ts]

On my 210 E-Class, my key doesn't seem to be recognised straight away by the ignition barrel.

The usual "buzz" when the key enters the barrel isn't always there. The problem has only surfaced today, but I've had a few instances where I've had to keep inserting/removing the key to be able to be allowed to start the car.

I've just tried the spare key which performed better but still not as it should. I'm hoping that it's a key-battery fault because I seem to recall a new ignition barrel unit being expensive and only programmable by the main dealer.


TIA.

Paul.

Mines been like this for nearly three years...and I only have one key! It's not the key battery because this is not used to start the car, just to open it.

 

[ringway]

Mines been like this for nearly three years...and I only have one key! It's not the key battery because this is not used to start the car, just to open it.

I though it may be a key-battery problem because it has to send a (infrared?) signal from key to barrel?

 

[Dieselman]

I though it may be a key-battery problem because it has to send a (infrared?) signal from key to barrel?

Which is powered from the inductive loop in the ignition barrel.

Try cleaning the red windows on both key and barrel.

If it isn't that, I'll give you £200 scrap for the car... A fair price, scrap steel is down in price now.

 

[ringway]

Which is powered from the inductive loop in the ignition barrel.

Try cleaning the red windows on both key and barrel.

If it isn't that, I'll give you £20000 scrap for the car... A fair price, scrap steel is down in price now.

That's a very fair offer. You just have the car and clean 'em yourself.


Thanks DM, I'll try that.


I remember snapping the only key to my Sprinter in half. MB wanted the V5 doc, and almost £300 to replace it and I'd have to wait for a couple of days for the key to arrive from Germany IIRC.

We just used a chipless copy key and taped the original broken one to the barrel to send the chip message. Bongo!

 

[ringway]

Cleaned both key windows and the barrel window.

The first key has improved but still not 100%.
The second key is now 100% which proves that cleaning the windows has worked.

I'll insert fresh 2025 batteries in each key later on and post the result.

 

[renault12ts]

Cleaned both key windows and the barrel window.

The first key has improved but still not 100%.
The second key is now 100% which proves that cleaning the windows has worked.

I'll insert fresh 2025 batteries in each key later on and post the result.

The batteries will not make any difference. The key is powered by an inductive loop from the ignition barrel. The infra red is only for the door/window operation.
To prove the point remove the batteries and then start the car.

 

[Diesel Benz]

It could be from the "big" coil in the key that receives power from EIS via that inductive loop as explained above. Re-soldering the coil may help.

 

[Dieselman]

Use the spare key.

 

[Alex Crow]

And one other thing to add...

The zzzzzip noise we hear when inserting the key, is actually the steering lock unlocking.
The ignition switch will not allow the key to turn until it has the 'unlocked' confirmation signal from the steering lock.
So the point here is that either a faulty ignition switch, or faulty steering lock, can give exactly the same symptoms - think on.

 

[jefrs]

The OP's no.2 key is now perfect, which proves the lock gubbins and that key work.

I deduce that the no.1 key has a fault. Whether that means it needs further cleaning, or it needs taking apart and smiting with a hot iron is undetermined.

 

[ringway]

The batteries will not make any difference. The key is powered by an inductive loop from the ignition barrel. The infra red is only for the door/window operation.
To prove the point remove the batteries and then start the car.

And one other thing to add...

The zzzzzip noise we hear when inserting the key, is actually the steering lock unlocking.
The ignition switch will not allow the key to turn until it has the 'unlocked' confirmation signal from the steering lock.
So the point here is that either a faulty ignition switch, or faulty steering lock, can give exactly the same symptoms - think on.

Replaced the batteries in both keys and they both quickly operate the ignition perfectly.

 

[renault12ts]

Replaced the batteries in both keys and they both quickly operate the ignition perfectly.

Placebo effect Paul. Take the batteries out and see what happens.

 

[ringway]

Placebo effect Paul.

On the continent, Renault.

Earlier today I actually had to leave the car running in a couple of places for fear that I wouldn't get the ignition back on. On one occasion I'd been there for five minutes piddling about trying to get the key in and out.

 

[Dieselman]

Try taking the batteries out, it will work just as it does now.

 

[renault12ts]

Try taking the batteries out, it will work just as it does now.

Hey...I said that.

 

[Dieselman]

Another thought is the car battery. If the battery is low of power it may confuse the CAN when the key is inserted.

 

[ringway]

Try taking the batteries out, it will work just as it does now.

Hey...I said that.

HUH?



It does work without the batteries.

 

[renault12ts]

HUH?



It does work without the batteries.

Yes, we know.

 

[Alex Crow]

Did anyone mention the key batteries have no bearing on ignition function?