• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

This was a lucky catch!

The oil pump pick up seal has exactly the same issue on the Vauxhall 2 litre CDTI. Luckily it has a low oil pressure warning light, which when it goes on at around 100k miles 6+ years, you know you've waited too long and your engine is likely compromised already 👍 :rolleyes:
 
The oil pump pick up seal has exactly the same issue on the Vauxhall 2 litre CDTI. Luckily it has a low oil pressure warning light, which when it goes on at around 100k miles 6+ years, you know you've waited too long and your engine is likely compromised already 👍 :rolleyes:
Perhaps Herr Volker Haag was moonlighting for Opel 🤔
 
The oil pump pick up seal has exactly the same issue on the Vauxhall 2 litre CDTI. Luckily it has a low oil pressure warning light, which when it goes on at around 100k miles 6+ years, you know you've waited too long and your engine is likely compromised already 👍 :rolleyes:
Yeah, Jake next door does taxi work. He’s seen that Vauxhall fault a few times. He bleats on incessantly.
 
Yeah, Jake next door does taxi work. He’s seen that Vauxhall fault a few times. He bleats on incessantly.
I've had to replace that oil seal on my insignia taxi. What a ball ache! Took me half a day to remove the sump, a few pence for the seal and half a day to put the sump back on.
 
I love this old school talk of bearings, rods and oil feed! Not seen the words "sensor " or "coding" once yet! Keep it up.

Out of interest, what is the advantage of cracked rods over machined rods?
 
I love this old school talk of bearings, rods and oil feed! Not seen the words "sensor " or "coding" once yet! Keep it up.

Out of interest, what is the advantage of cracked rods over machined rods?
Technically they are more accurate perfect circle when assembled. Ultimately though they are probably cheaper to make
 
Technically they are more accurate perfect circle when assembled. Ultimately though they are probably cheaper to make
I think they (cracked rods) also give improved mechanical stability for the big-end cap joint.
 
I am going to start (listen to cold) and drive my C55 this morning listening for all sorts of noises that I have never worried about before ! :D I did do an interim 5K oil and filter change recently (149K ish miles) I cut the filter open and did not find any metallic flakes in there. She burns about a litre between 5K oil changes so I am not too concerned t the moment. Famous last words .
 
Technically they are more accurate perfect circle when assembled. Ultimately though they are probably cheaper to make
Not sure about the manufacturing cost but making a single forging, cracking to create the bearing cap and then finish boring the big-end may well have a cost advantage over forging a separate cap and rod, machining their mating surfaces and fitting precision hollow dowels.

The big benefit is precision and stability of the big-end journal as the cap cannot "slide" on the rod, and the caps can't be mixed up with different rods as they just won't fit thus guaranteeing a perfect bore once assembled.

They do require very careful handling though. For example, neither the rods nor their caps should be put down on their fracture surface, and prior to (re)assembly the mating faces should be thoroughly cleaned with solvent and then blown down so as to avoid contamination with any foreign bodies that may interfere with the precision fit when they are clamped up. Wiping the fracture surface with rag should be avoided too as even small fibre fragments (which can be can be difficult to remove) can prevent perfect reassembly.
 
I was always slightly worried about my M113K, for this reason. Always felt it was a poor design, even though experts whose experience I trust told me the actual O ring is held in place firmly, and cannot leak air, even if it goes brittle. Some flavours of M113k do not have this issue, notably the CLS, E class etc because they do not have the double sump like the SL and CL.
 
This may be wrong but I thought they started using cracked rods when production went to sintered rather than forged, apparently it's easier to crack a sintered rod rather than all the machining required.
 
Just got back from my drive in my C55 . Cold start - OK , not that cold it's a hot day today - produced no odd noises through my trusty tube stethoscope just nice re assuring whirring sounds of the bit's and bob's spinning around. Same on the hot engine .

I will still be doing the 5K oil changes though , cheap and it is an almost 150K engine.
 
If you want to see what it’s like, try drinking your mojito through a straw with a pinhole halfway up…
 
Some flavours of M113k do not have this issue, notably the CLS, E class etc because they do not have the double sump like the SL and CL.
Pretty sure the CLS does have a saddle sump. WIS mentions removing both oil drain plugs to completely drain the oil.
Also was told sucking out the oil via the dipstick tube wasn't recommended as it would leave oil in the 'other' sump.
 
Last edited:
I've had to replace that oil seal on my insignia taxi. What a ball ache! Took me half a day to remove the sump, a few pence for the seal and half a day to put the sump back on.
Same on my 159....basically the same Fiat/Alfa/Saab/Vauxhall engine.. I got it done in about 3 hours....most of which was cleaning up and painting stuff while I was under there. The clue that it had failed was the oil warning display coming on for the few two or three seconds on a cold start up....due to air being sucked past that seal.
 
Technically they are more accurate perfect circle when assembled. Ultimately though they are probably cheaper to make
Thanks for the answer.I can see the advantages for the initial assembly of the engine but it must be a nightmare during rebuilds. The potential for a massive **** up must be great.
Do pukka high performance engines ( ignoring AMG and BMW M chip tuned lumps 🤣) use these, or do they stick with old school?
 
22 year Ford pick up trucks have them . BMW did it on at least one of their motorcycles in the 1990's I believe. Plenty info online . And a lot of internet discussion regarding pros and cons . As one would expect on line . :D

16:25 seconds in.


To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
Thanks for the answer.I can see the advantages for the initial assembly of the engine but it must be a nightmare during rebuilds. The potential for a massive **** up must be great.
Do pukka high performance engines ( ignoring AMG and BMW M chip tuned lumps 🤣) use these, or do they stick with old school?
It shouldn't be....in fact it might make it easier....you should never mix up caps and rods any way and with cracked rod caps you cant....they will only properly fit the rod they came from....and its really obvious if they are not the right one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JHS
It shouldn't be....in fact it might make it easier....you should never mix up caps and rods any way and with cracked rod caps you cant....they will only properly fit the rod they came from....and its really obvious if they are not the right one.
I can see that the slightest damage to any mating surface by, for instance, dropping a rod or cap, would be a disaster.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom