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URGENTLY REQUIRED PLEASE 300te 4-Matic Tandem PSU and Hudraulic Pump refurb kit.

Bruce are you good to do this job on your own ? I wish i was closer to you i would come and help you do this job . You have enough problems of your own without working on you engine . You could supervise and i would do the pump . Or even better if some other member or members could pop along and do some spanner work for you .
 
Heres a side by side cross section image of the single and two stage Vickers pumps for comparison. The single stage on the left
Y20pLWQ.jpg
 
Right its all getting a bit clearer now- the dual pump is not a 2 stage pump as I thought but in fact 2 separate pumps of differing types! :wallbash: The first at the rear is a vane pump like the single pump and supplies the power steering the second housed in the front flange is a rotary[ eccentric cam driven ] piston pump which serves the ASD/SLS /4matic systems with two radial axial seals at either end of its section of the drive shaft . So fundamentally its the radial piston pump that's leaking behind the pulley- Its all beginning to make more sense .
Y90ep2z.jpg

By disabling the 4 matic section Bruce you are effectively disabling the radial pump section of the dual pump. so less leakage.
Blocking/Disabling SLS pump in W124 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

rotary piston pump principle
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Bruce are you good to do this job on your own ? I wish i was closer to you i would come and help you do this job . You have enough problems of your own without working on you engine . You could supervise and i would do the pump . Or even better if some other member or members could pop along and do some spanner work for you .

Trevor

I like your thinking. My Indi believes it is not a DIY. He is not 100% on that so is following Grobers posts.

I personally will not be doing much spannering for a while now.


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Is it as above ^ Vickers 1244601580 110 bar type 78.
Bruce needs to check the Vickers number on his pump which unfortunately is not visible on that picture he posted. Mercedes seem to use the same W124 460 1580 no for both single and tandem pumps. :confused: As far as I can make out the Type 78 is the single stage pump I think he needs the Vickers Type 119 ???
Best to post a picture of a tandem pump to Rob- there's no mistaking the extra pump front end with the 4 extra piston holder ends [ 2 shown in this picture]

2090781.jpg
 
grober Bruce did put his pump number on above post Said it was a Vickers 1244601580. 110 bar type 78 .

I did speak to Rob and he might have one ,but the right number is needed to find one off the shelf.
Will wait for Bruce to confirm the number if he still needs a pump, or if the rebuild is on the books ..
 
a98abe260a5fc90ced7886feccd31853.jpg

Forgive me but I saw no mention of a Vickers type number accompanying this picture . What also puzzled me was the single colour red label whereas the dual pumps should have a red/green label and be marked with two pressures??? 110 and 150 bar
like this
https://i.imgur.com/AGnnSnU.jpg
Maybe the later pumps were different but the whole things a minefield!!!!! hence my advice to inspect any pump rather than go by the label alone. There should be total of 4 radial pump piston holders [ bronze?] in a cross configuration at the front of the pump housing altho they may be partially obscured by by the pulley.The pump should also have 4 ports 2 for steering[ supply and return 110bar ] towards the rear and 2 for the 4Matic [supply and return 150bar] towards the front
here's a couple of pics from the peach parts rebuild thread.. Its from a w126 I believe. you can see the two colour label blue/green - for the two pressures and the second shows the second pump pistons.the third the 4 pump pistons that bear on the eccentric cam in the partial stripdown.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...-pump-rebuild-1-tandem-psp-starting-photo.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...psp-disconnecting-stupid-design-tensioner.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...uild-14-tandem-psp-spring-pin-cover-plugs.jpg
 
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a98abe260a5fc90ced7886feccd31853.jpg

Forgive me but I saw no mention of a Vickers type number accompanying this picture . What also puzzled me was the single colour red label whereas the dual pumps should have a red/green label and be marked with two pressures??? 110 and 150 bar
like this
https://i.imgur.com/AGnnSnU.jpg
Maybe the later pumps were different but the whole things a minefield!!!!! hence my advice to inspect any pump rather than go by the label alone. There should be total of 4 radial pump piston holders [ bronze?] in a cross configuration at the front of the pump housing altho they may be partially obscured by by the pulley.The pump should also have 4 ports 2 for steering[ supply and return 110bar ] towards the rear and 2 for the 4Matic [supply and return 150bar] towards the front
here's a couple of pics from the peach parts rebuild thread.. Its from a w126 I believe. you can see the two colour label blue/green - for the two pressures and the second shows the second pump pistons.the third the 4 pump pistons that bear on the eccentric cam in the partial stripdown.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...-pump-rebuild-1-tandem-psp-starting-photo.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...psp-disconnecting-stupid-design-tensioner.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...uild-14-tandem-psp-spring-pin-cover-plugs.jpg

Gents

Apologies for my tardy response.

The best pic I can get.

b7b994c1d066df85b6454a71532b4a89.jpg



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Nice one Bruce- it doesn't have the 2 colour iden plate but maybe the earlier/ later ones didn't :confused: but defo identified as a tandem pump Vickers type 119
MB part no A124 460 1580
----the photo also shows the top of one of the radial pump piston liners with the distinctive 2 recessed holes for the removal tool pins. the flexible pipe is the low pressure return for the radial piston pump section.
 
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Graeme, Trevor

Thank you both so much. Trevor, Can I be a pain and ask ig you can assist with Rob at Three Pointed Parts, on my behalf please? This makes sense as he is now aware what you require and I will just add confusion. If you wish to message me his nest price (will he do a PX on the old unit?) Not worried if yes or no really as I need the pump. I want to get some driving pleasure from the old girl, time is of the essence.
 
@ Jaymanek used also in cars where additional hydraulics are required e.g. self leveling suspension and/or ASD variable locking diff
 
Ok in this case, id be tempted to buy a used one from the bay and have the original restored later. These arent really that common for leaking..
 
Gents

Apologies for my tardy response.

The best pic I can get.

b7b994c1d066df85b6454a71532b4a89.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am looking at this pic (my own pic) and thinking it "looks" to be leaking/weeping from the rubber union? I guess we cannot say for sure without stripping it out of the car. It would be bummer to buy another > replace it> only to discover it is a weeping joint on that stock rubber fuel hose. I am tempted to try a new length of hose and some now clips as I will know straight away of that stops the leak.


Trevor. I have put a call into Rob and left him a voicemail explaining that we are linked ;^) I shall await his call back.
 
Bruce, you might have a point about the joint, the clip looks to be at min diameter without severely clamping the hose.
 
I suspect that the radial piston pump at the front may run at higher operating pressure than the standard rear vane pump. That front seal might be subjected to a degree of sideways wear from the drive belt forces on the pulley. Factor in embrittlement of the axial seal elastomer with heat/ age and possibly a small wear indent on the shaft itself where the seal meets it and I wager that they all leak a bit at that age--its just a matter of degree. :confused: It would be nice if the cause was that return flexible [ low pressure side ] and would do no harm to replace it
 

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