w123 SLS suspension struts

[sceh]

How difficult are these to remove, inspect and replace? I have a 240TD 1981.
T
The FSM implies it is pretty easy but does not mention bleeding the system after reconnecting - which surprises me since there is only one connection to the strut so it is not as though the liquid recirculates and bleeds automatically elsewhere. Has anybody done this job?

thanks

 

[hotrodder]

Never needed to on any 123 i've owned but have done on 124s. The SLS system is kinda self bleeding in that fluid is pumped around constantly when the engine is running and air does work it's way out eventually provided the SLS is made to work... either by filling the back of the car up with Americans or by disconnecting the SLS valve linkage and manually cycling it. Slightly messier but you can also crack unions if paranoid about getting airlocks

Dealing with rusty pipework and seized unions is usually the only PITA aspect of working on the SLS

 

[sceh]

Is removal for inspection easy enough. I have the FSM f but I am always wary until I hear from someone who has done it. Since I have a clonking sound from the rear, could a duff strut or rubber be the cause?

 

[hotrodder]

Rusty/seized fasteners and hydraulic lines/unions aside yes. Aside from the hydraulics removing/replacing the SLS struts isn't really any different to swaping conventional dampers... in both cases there's only a few fasteners but as the strut/damper acts as a rebound stop for the suspension the car needs to be on it's wheels or have the suspension properly supported or the coil spring will ruin your day when it tries to escape
Clonking from the back end could be from a knackered bush at the top mount of one of the struts, a broken/damaged bottom mount or be totally unrelated to the struts. Impossible to call without inspecting but shouldn't need to take the car apart to find the culprit