W124 coupe advice on repairing inner fender rust both front and rear

Discussion in 'Bodywork' started by Kam1972, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. GP801

    GP801 MB Enthusiast

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    The washer bottle area is a very common issue. Ours went from nothing to completely rotten between annual services. Its always serviced at PCS so they almost certainly would have spotted it if present the year before. Their welding guy sorted it for £100 including copious amounts of rustproofing. The rest of the underside remains rust free.
     
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  2. optimusprime

    optimusprime MB Enthusiast

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    Not to bad really and you could cut it out,well i would grind it out .. and then you could pop rivet a plate over the top after cutting out the rusty part under washer bottle . My W124 was going in the same place i just caught it just in time before it had rusted into hole . You can remove the bad material and use a fibre glass mating and epoxy resin . Then put a piece under the bottom and one above .But knowing you , you will get it done right cut outand then re -plate it. The car is very nice and worth it in the long run .Dont just take one garages quote, keep looking .This job i would expect to pay £300 tops .And to cut it down,, do some work yourself if you can.
     
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  3. horatio

    horatio Active Member

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    The car looks lovely and the rust doesn't look that bad. Shouldn't cost more than a few hundred.

    I find a jet wash wash underneath each year keeps the 190 rust free. The real killer is the rear subframe mount area - the mastic peels and it festers underneath. Worth checking and painting if needed.
     
  4. Let’s hope the OP is reassured he hasn't bought a colander...
     
  5. grober

    grober MB Master

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    Behind the headlights = classic later W124 rust spot-- non load bearing so any MOT failure is "technical" and down to the testers interpretation of the rules- perforated metal in that location is a fail because its obvious more than anything else. Water tends to sit there and accelerates the corrosion process---rust there should not be taken as evidence the bulk of the car is structurally unsound. Any decent panel beater should be able to effect a sound metal repair for under £500 for both sides. The big MOT failure on these cars are the side sills at the rear jacking points and the place where the front mounts of the rear subframe attach to the main body- none of which are insurmountable either but are structurally more important and more expensive to rectify.
    W124 Estate - Is this terminal?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  6. OP
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    Kam1972

    Kam1972 New Member

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    Dear all thanks for comments, took your advice and took it to good repair shop; strangely they did the same thing aka checked the sills and jacking points and guess what they are solid as rock so the fundamentals are sound. I am trying source the parts as I going to cut the rust out and weld I new metal and get it done right so at least is proper repair not quick and dirty repair. Rang Mercedes dealers for the parts and they don't have them in stock even at Milton Keynes HQ do know where I can source the inner and outer fenders both front and rear as I going to restore the car now. I appreciate any advice given, thanks for the comments.
     
  7. grober

    grober MB Master

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    FIRST YOU NEED TO GO ON TO THIS SITE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS YOU WANT
    CHASSIS MERCEDES 220 [Car] [CHASSIS] (EUROPA)
    THEN DO A SEARCH FOR SAME ON INTERNET- doubt if you find any- but you never know- parts from MB will come from Germany and have classic prices to boot- when available your best bet is fabrication or parts from accident damaged cars.
     
  8. chris clk320

    chris clk320 Active Member

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    I did exactly the same fell in love with the car and then looked a bi IMG_2896.JPG IMG_2897.JPG IMG_2918.JPG IMG_2919.JPG IMG_2920.JPG IMG_2938.JPG IMG_2939.JPG IMG_2940.JPG IMG_2890.JPG IMG_2896.JPG t closer. My jacking points had all corroded. So that was the first one.

    I would say that you have new wings usually the rust builds up behind and the first thing you see is it bubbling at the front of the wheel in the arch. I would say they just replaced the wing to make it look nice and chose to ignore the inner wing. Good news is that if your wings are sound then they can just be unbolted and put back but you wont know until they are off and take a look behind.

    The inner wings are fiddly but not to bad i did mine myself small bit of fabrication/welding and lots of paint! IMG_2896.JPG IMG_2897.JPG IMG_2918.JPG IMG_2919.JPG IMG_2920.JPG IMG_2938.JPG IMG_2939.JPG IMG_2940.JPG
     
  9. optimusprime

    optimusprime MB Enthusiast

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    Just be careful not to start a fire lots of hide holes and box sections are filled with wax.
     
  10. chris clk320

    chris clk320 Active Member

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    Very good advice! anyone welding in a helmet which is a good idea also! cannot see how far the sparks go.

    I have a welding blanket over the engine and a fire extinguisher on hand.

    You would be amazed how many car shops do not take precautions.
     
  11. OP
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    Kam1972

    Kam1972 New Member

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    Dear all thanks for replies sorry for delay in responding back but work commitments. Just an update the rust is being sorted out; old rust is being cut out and professionally resprayed on all the inner arches. Basically I am getting the sorted mechanically and body work rust removed. Next year planning in getting the car resprayed and then enjoying it. Appreciate if anyone can tell me where I can get a new wiring harness as it hasn't been changed plus I not paying Mercedes £1000 pounds for harness. It just a precaution as I don't to damage ECU etc. Any advice appreciated.
     
  12. GP801

    GP801 MB Enthusiast

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    I understand your wish to avoid the ECU failure. We had that but resulting from dodgy coil packs rather than the loom which had already been changed. Try sileck.co.uk based in New Romney in Kent. They have helped out a few on here in the past. They do repairs to looms but not sure if they do the full item.
     
  13. grober

    grober MB Master

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    I've always thought that shutting those 3/2 coil packs in their own little oven on top of the cam cover of the M104/ later M111 was asking for trouble and wondered if the purpose was purely cosmetic. After all, earlier and later Mercedes engines seemed to do all right with their HT components "exposed to the elements" While undoubtedly making the engine compartment tidy in the scheme of things what part does that play in the overall appearance of a car. Hey Man I really like your wheels- nice paint job,cracking interior trim lovely seats BUT before I can really give it a "thumbs up" can I give your engine a quick forensic examination?;)
     
  14. OP
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    Kam1972

    Kam1972 New Member

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    Dear all

    I thought I update you all ; basically I had all the rust on the inner arches repaired by expert old merc bodyshop plus all the jacking points rust cut and repaired. The car flew the mot after I replaced all the brake discs and pads, now I need to resolve the head gasket as leaking oil into coolant strangely the car doesn't over heat but it seems my gauges for fuel and temp are fluctuating so not taking a chance but have any of you suffered from fluctuations in temp and fuel gauge only on cluster ?? Does it mean that wiring loom is shot or something I just need to know as I have friend doing me favour getting the head gasket and all seals done plus getting coolant system refreshed after repair. Any advice appreciated.ps I upload picture if the repaired arches and underseal.
     
  15. grober

    grober MB Master

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    One gauge fluctuating might be a sensor-more than one might point to a voltage problem. This might be down to galvanic corrosion on supply fuse contacts or any earthing points on the bulkhead behind the instrument cluster. Check the fuse box and pull the instrument cluster to check.
     
  16. OP
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    Kam1972

    Kam1972 New Member

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    Thanks for reply, I am going to check the bulk head check and the fuses for corrosion and clean them up plus I am going to get the instrument cluster contacts all cleaned up.

    Thanks for the advice
     
  17. OP
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    Kam1972

    Kam1972 New Member

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    Dear all
    Sorry for the delay but this project car is going for full restoration. Got the body work sorted out including brakes and discs and pads etc. Car passed mot with no advisors. Just had the wiring loom fixed by well know specialist sileck as when doing the head gasket the wiring was shot. I need to know if any anyone has had the cluster repaired basically my cluster all works with the exception to to trip odometer does not work even if I reset it it be a clog but as I spent a fortune on the car ;as i am going to keep it until it blows up I need to know if reputable repairer is recommended on this forum or should I buy secondhand cluster ??
     
  18. optimusprime

    optimusprime MB Enthusiast

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    Kam they can be repaired by yourself but it is delicate job and if you put them back wrong it will need doing again .I have done the nylon gears in my speedo .Only one of the small gears had move along the shaft .So i marked the shaft with a small file so the glue had a better grip to hold it and then refitted it .But for quickness a good working cluster is what you need . You must get the same one with the same number thats on your speedo head . If you look at the oddomiter just by the trip numbers you will see a set of number and thats the number you need to look for .Put a note in the wanted parts on the forum .Also some are electronic so i would go for a a good known working speedo head .Then its just pull yours and refit the wires and multi plug . You could ask Rob at threepointedpart@hotmail.co.uk
     
  19. OP
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    Kam1972

    Kam1972 New Member

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    Thanks appreciate the advice
     

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