W124 E220 Coupe issues?

[Drommen]

Dear all,

My first post... I have just bought my first Mercedes. It is a 1995 E220 coupe. I have always owned Jags, one 2002 XK and two X-types, 2006 and 2008. After many, many unbelievable problems in and out of service (you could not make it up!) with the X-types and the dealership, I have opted to change marque to Mercedes. A friend of mine has many classic Mercs and after a few journeys he managed to transfer his excitement about them to me.

So... I have just bought a 1995 W124 coupe. I bought it for just under £2000. It is in very good condition considering its age, however, I have it booked into D Class in Chobham for a little leather work and some body work (rust bubbling) which should cost just over £1200.

May I ask of any other W124 owners what potential problems I am likely to expect with this car? The car has had regular servicing.
It sounds smooth and the kickdown seems to respond as expected.

It does need a new aerial. Does anyone know where I can source a typical aerial from? The current aerial is manual.

Can anyone recommend the best workshop manual for this model?

I need to remove the centre console to replace a bulb which illuminates one of the temp controllers and need to remove the instrument cluster.

I have some money to spare and am interested in a 500/560SEC, 500SEL or a 1970's/80's SL. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Many thanks.

Paul

 

[d w124]

Hi Paul and welcome to the forum,please post some pictures of the car when you can
The m111 engine is very reliable,if it`s been serviced I doubt you`ll have any troubles

 

[WOODYTHEWISE]

Hi Paul,welcome to the forum,you will find the answers to most questions here.

 

[Drommen]

Thank you both. I will post photo's once I have had the leather and bodywork dealt with.
So far, I am very pleased with the car. It does not have air conditioning though. After owning new Jags with all the extras, in car sat nav, heated front screen etc (and all the problems) it is a new experience moving to old/classic Mercs. I am very excited. I wish I had left the previous marque years ago...

 

[st4]

Hi Drommen,

Great cars the 124's. Very comfortable and smooth riding and a reputation for long lasting quality. They have bags of character and are brilliant fun etc.

Bear in mind however, as good and robust as they are, it will be a different maintenance proposition. Its 17yr old car, and I don't care what they say, components etc perish and wear out. A decent specialist or if you are a DIY man would sort out any issues that come up.

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 11979]

Welcome, and a good choice for your first Mercedes I would say (I own a W124 cabriolet with the 220 engine that has covered almost 210,000).

Problems you may come across? Well, possible head gasket at around 120k, be careful whoever does it replaces the chain tensioner correctly or you'll snap your camshaft.

That's pretty much it for major failures I think on these. You'll probably go through some bushes and ball joints, maybe a propshaft donut and so on, but they are good cars.

Whilst getting bodywork attended to check under the headlamps on the front inner wings, possibly rusty if other parts of the car are, also jacking points behind the plastic covers on the sills.

The centre console is easy enough to remove, on mine all I did was to pull with mole grips and a cloth the two large knobs that control fan speed and air distrubuition, this reveals two large nuts that need to be removed, then the wood trim comes away revealing bulbs. Be careful, on some you also need to remove a screw just above the radio to release the bottom of the trim panel. Buy your bulbs from Mercedes as Halfords etc are far too bright.

Instrument cluster requires a little jiggling, I managed it with radio removal tools, but be careful, there are specific tools available on Ebay, it requires a pretty good pull to get them off!

Have fun with it!

 

[trapperjohn]

Hi Paul. Welcome to the forum.

A few things for you to check. The steering damper is usually shot on a car new to someone. Whilst you are down there have a look at the ARB bushes.
Have a good look at the rear subframe bushes. There are four 2 to the front and two to the rear of the subframe. Back on top now. Check under your washer bottle for rust/holes on the front inner wing. Check the other side too in the same place, much easier to see.
Springs can be broken - the ride hide will appear to be correct. Listen for rattles in the spring areas, inspect the springs with a powerful torch.
Propshaft doughnuts are subject to wear of course.
Pop the jacking hole covers off and have at look at the jacking points, could be rusty.
Drain holes for "run off" water from the screen area are buggers for clogging up. Stand at the front of the car with the bonnet up - the drain holes are left and right of the bulkhead in each corner as you see it.
Check the drain holes are free and clear under the car. There are two on each side in what are "rubber bungs" The front ones are just infront of the jacking posts and the rear just behind the rear tyres. The bungs are conical shaped and should face "largest" wedge to the front of the car. There are three holes in each bung a coathanger swan neck sized probe will sort out any road muck trapped in there. Be prepared to get drenched if they are blocked.
Check the wiper mech has been greased. With it being a late car (one of the last and the best) the shroud that covers the base of the mech should pop off and you can use "graphite grease" to keep the system happy. There are links on here to this "fix it" use the "search" button on the top toolbar.

All the rest is just wear and tear really.

Now I'm not saying any of that will be wrong on your car but all good points to check. You did ask!!

Enjoy your 124, I certainly do mine.

 

[Drommen]

John, thank you very much for your advice. I will check all of these points. I do hope though that D:Class will point out any further issues once panels are removed.

Please bear with me as this is an unknown car to me and I have to get used to all the sounds and foibles these cars have.

When the car is cold and in park or drive, the engine 'hunts' a little and tends to rock from side to side a little. Once it is warm and has been driven, it does not rock when parked. Is that usual?

I know that I am asking a lot of questions, but this car and marque is completely new to me...

Thank you again.

Paul

 

[grober]

You may be able to cure the "hunting" at idle by giving the throttle throat and butterfly plate a clean with solvent they can get slightly tacky if they get dirty over the years. Be on the alert for failure of one of the 2 ignition coils---misfiring or loss of 2 cylinders If this happens a coil has failed or its low voltage supply has shorted due to engine heat cooking the low voltage wiring insulation. Don't run it for long like that as it will damage the engine ECU which will require replacement or repair along with whatever caused it. Use standard spark plugs [ avoid multi electrode ones] NGK BCP6E are fine. A good semi synthetic 10w40 engine oil will be fine changed at say 6,000 miles. If there is no RECENT record of an Autobox fluid change you might want to consider changing that plus the gearbox filter. The 4 speed autoboxes are very robust if looked after A Dexron 3 fluid such as TITAN ATF4000 will be a good upgrade altho Dexron 2 is adequate. THE HAYNES MANUAL IS QUITE GOOD BUT UNFORTUNATELY DOESN'T COVER YOUR ENGINE Mercedes-Benz 200, 230, 250, 260, 280, 300, 320 (124 Series) 1985-1993 Petrol & Diesel (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals): Amazon.co.uk: Steve Rendle, etc.: 9781859602539: Books

THE ONLY ONE THAT DOES IS THIS ONE. Mercedes W124 Owners Workshop Manual 1985-1995: 200, 200E, E200, E220, 220E, 230E, 260E, E280, 280E, E300, 300E, 300E-24, E320, 320E: Amazon.co.uk: R. M. Clarke: Books BUT IT HAS LIMITATIONS ON SOME DETAILS. [ ITS A TRANSLATION FROM AN ORIGINAL GERMAN ONE]

ps don't lose/damage the remote locking key/keys they are very expensive to replace.

 

[trapperjohn]

John, thank you very much for your advice. I will check all of these points. I do hope though that D:Class will point out any further issues once panels are removed.

Please bear with me as this is an unknown car to me and I have to get used to all the sounds and foibles these cars have.

When the car is cold and in park or drive, the engine 'hunts' a little and tends to rock from side to side a little. Once it is warm and has been driven, it does not rock when parked. Is that usual?

I know that I am asking a lot of questions, but this car and marque is completely new to me...

Thank you again.

Paul

The hunting could just be it needs the plugs changed or something similar. Could be a weak spring on the throttle body. Small beer really. The rocking could be indicative of worn engine mounts but if as you say it smooths out later they should be OK.
As you are doing, keep asking the questions and get used to the car and people throwing you admiring glances as you cruise down the road. The joy of summer with all four windows down is bliss. You will not need aircon. Watch out you don't tup the car in front as you watch your own cars reflection in shop windows.
The stereo system, no matter what you do it, will probably fall short of expectations, certainly far short of modern day standards. Best speakers I have found for the dash are "Rainbow" but other members use different makes.
You will probably find you have the standard 124 "Comedy" fuel gauge. It just like to have sport with you between the quarter mark and getting towards empty. Usually the reserve light is accurate, well on most of em. Dont go for more than 20-25 miles on "reserve" 'til you know your gauge.
Cannot think of much else really - I think your fuel filter is under the car towards the back on the drivers side. Its under a cover and next to the fuel pump which is also under the same cover. Chances are the filter may not have been changed in a while. Due to its location.
Aeriel I would go for something like this.
MERCEDES REPLACEMENT WING MOUNT ELECTRIC AERIAL 180/190 | eBay

See also grober's post above he is spot on and far more experienced that me.

 

[Drommen]

E220 Coupe 1995 fuse question (concern)

Thank you John for your reply also.

I have another question which is concerning me.
I had spent some time today familiarising myself with the under the bonnet layout. As I was inspecting the fuse box, I noticed that there was no fuse in socket 11 (Intake manifold heater/gearbox oil cooler). This should be a white fuse. I have put one in its place. Can anyone tell me please if the fuse should or should not be there?

Many thanks,

ind regards,

Paul

 

[grober]

Pretty sure its not used in your car. I think the intake manifold heater might apply to early carburettor cars ?? and the gearbox oil cooler fuse was a supply to a oil cooler electrical cooling fan which you don't have either.

 

[Drommen]

Thank you Grober. So I can safely remove the fuse without any future issues?
I was only concerned when I saw the reference to gearbox oil cooler on the fuse card.

Kind regards,

Paul

 

[Frankus]

E220 Coupe Hunting Issues

Hi All

First timer! Have Midnight Blue 1994 E220 Coupe with 137,000 miles on clock, very happy owner until I got dreaded hunting/surging problems at traffic lights. Checked for air leaks (all clear), cleaned throttle body (no improvement), then my mechanic replaced throttle body with salvaged part under guarantee but unfortunately engine running worse than previous....sometimes cutting out or surging between 5000 & 12000rpm.

Read somewhere you need to reset ECU on fitting throttle body..not sure if he's done this! Probably should of got codes checked first, key sections of loom looks in good shape? Car has had recent service and plugs/HT leads done. No misfiring, engine pressure good and pulls well under acceleration, but on idle its a mess!!

At a lost and desperate to get her purring again...love this car, have looked after it past 12 months and loathe to sell her as 2 owner vehicle with FSH. Certain this subject has been done to death but would welcome any suggestions or link with recommended person who could put her right. Based in London but happy to travel. Could stay all nite on this site..very informative.

 

[grober]

Possibly a fault in the emission control solenoid valve[ driven from the ECU] or associated pipework- especially the short rubber coupling pipes. It's mounted on the inner wing and marked MOT irrc. quite a few posts on here about it. You can test it by temporarily disconnecting the pipe leading from under the manifold and blocking it up with a bit of solid rod. If the idle stabilises- that's your problem. You might also want to check the OVP relay. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/82377-new-member-w124-idling-problems-2.html

 

[Frankus]

Thanks Grober...much appreciated. Will follow up on your suggestions and click onto link. Also will feedback if problem successfully sorted.

 

[tonywashere]

"I have some money to spare and am interested in a 500/560SEC, 500SEL or a 1970's/80's SL. Does anyone have any recommendations?"
Yes, get your coupe properly sorted out before you start with another car (thinks, must take own advice