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W124 e300

blobbyknobby

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Sep 2, 2010
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33
Just bought a e300 thats been stored for 7 years.. the battery is fooked.
Ive boost started her, and it runs fine as long as its connected to the pack... If i remove the leads it dies.

other older cars continue to run under their own steam, is this an altenator fault or does the w124 require a decent battery ?

Cheers
 
Of course it requires a decent battery.
Do not run it with a battery that is as you describe !!
You may already have done serious damage.
 
Ive just ran her with a boost back hooked to the battery.. hoping with her started the alternator would charge the battery before I buy an new one... of course the second the leads are removed it dies.. nothing that could damage it..
 
Why not check the alternator output to see if that is fooked too...the OVP is pretty sensitive btw W124 actually has quite advanced electronics for a car of it's age. While a Diesel will continue no spark ignition engine can run without electricity
 
balge hence why i was expecting it to continue running of alternator current... As most older wagens do! I just want make sure the alternator isnt fooked as well as the battery !! lmfao... ill try n charge the battery overnight 1st
 
Check the brush/diode pack on the back of the alternator and the fuse on the OVP relay fuse - behind the battery. I had a charging problem on my 230TE and it would shut down the ignition as well as everything else when the battery went flat - no fun in heavy traffic first time it happened...
Check the Voltage of the battery sounds like a cell down if it's that poorly
 
The battery is very-likely permanently fooked, if it's been sitting discharged for 7 years.
It might be terminal (Geddit !)

If you are going to try to resusitate the battery (and I am not optimistic), start off by charging it on trickle-charge.
Otherwise, you will overheat the cells that have had-it and it will be even more-fooked.
If you don't want to spend on a new battery, get a tested second-hand one from the scrapper's.
 
Alternators are to maintain a charge, not charge a flat battery! You will need power for the coils and injectors to work. Also the injection system cant work correctly if the various sensors are not giving the correct voltage readings.
 
The fact that the engine won't run with the jump pack disconnected and the flat car battery still connected tells me the car battery is knackered, totally and utterly, I wouldn't even waste my time or the electricity to charge it. It will have to be replaced. If you continually try to start it and try to disconnect the jump pack you will damage something, and it won't just be a fuse, most likely the alternator.
The alternator needs a 12V supply to regulate its field winding, to be able produce a charge. Normally this would be supplied by the car battery, but as yours is totally had it, when you disconnect the jump pack you lose the supply to the field winding alternator stops charging, and engine stops because there is no supply to the ECU, fuel pump, ignition system etc.
Have to disagree with the comment to using a trickle charge to try to recover a deeply discharged battery, I was always led to believe the plates in a battery become sulphated over time, and it needs a short very high initial charge in excess of 20-30A (industrial charger I,m afraid) to start with, this is to attempt to boil the said sulphate off of the plates, though you do run the risk of buckling the plates of the battery, then reduce it to a lower more sensible charging rate.
I expect the O/P's battery once connected to the charger will try to pull such a high current it will cut out through thermal trip, blow a fuse or the like.
 
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Well I left her charging for 6/7 hours and it starts 1st turn of the key.... then runs for 30/40 mins then dies... and the batteries flat again on restart... so im unsure if the alternator (which is outputting 12v) isnt charging the (possibly fooked battery)....

Ill try charging her overnight... if shes holding a charge after a few hours on trickle. Then I assume it might be ok... lmfao
 
Also whilst here.... Lmfao .
The dash lights act weird... always seem to be a backround glow of all the lights.. the abs lite goes out after starting only.. then seems to come back on after a few secs... ive opened the fuse box which was corrroded to hell.. all contacts have been cleaned as have fuses... now most things work... but some stupid stuff like the windows all work, only when the drivers door is open!! lmfao.. and other various electrical gremlins...

Where do i start looking!!

Cheers dudes...
 
First fit a new battery as the guys have mentioned Then I'd either inspect the joints on the OVP relay and repair if required or do I've always done just slap in a new regardless. I'd also locate all the earthing points, possibly about seven or eight - can't remember and clean them up (this could save you loads of issues, now or in the future).

Clean the ABS sensors at hubs and check the wiring while your at it. Start operating the ventilation system too, run plenty of warm air into the cabin. Also drive the car as much as possible & go from there.

Hope all works out well.
 
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Like John says, start with a new battery. The one that came with the car is SCRAP.
 
Also whilst here.... Lmfao .
The dash lights act weird... always seem to be a backround glow of all the lights.. the abs lite goes out after starting only.. then seems to come back on after a few secs... ive opened the fuse box which was corrroded to hell.. all contacts have been cleaned as have fuses... now most things work... but some stupid stuff like the windows all work, only when the drivers door is open!! lmfao.. and other various electrical gremlins...

Where do i start looking!!

Cheers dudes...

ABS light shows you have a charging problem.....
Replace all the fuses, preferably with copper bodied replacements
Brush pack is screwed into the back of the alternator,two screws, you should check the brushes and diodes, it's a combined brush holder and Zener diode Voltage control.
If the alternator is only giving 12V is ferked should be about 14V iirc
 
Checked the OVP this morning... fuse is grand the contacts were old and corroded... cleaned and resoldered... now the abs light is gone... she started 1st turn the battery light is duller but still lit... will changing the brushes on the alternator help or is it fooked ?
 
will changing the brushes on the alternator

Hurray! :thumb:

Clean up the armature also, that actually maybe the problem.

Remember the car has been laid up for seven (?) years so it's a no brainer to go for the obvious items/potential issues and don't cut corners when it comes to buying parts for those long term serviceable items like replays, alternators, batteries etc. - if you do you're only making unnecessary hard work for yourself & possibly taking away some of the enjoyment that a car like yours can give.

Check the distributor cap & rotor too, any doubts replace with Bosch or Beru. Again I'd just replace these regardless.


P.S. better check all the contacts on all the replays, I'd shove in a new fuel pump replay too while you're at it.
 
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checked the regulator pack. looked fine. 1/8 extening from bottom of unit. how do i check diode function!!
 

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