W124 Self levelling suspension MOT failure

[ecossebev]

It was that nail biting time of the year again, and it nearly passed.... but not quite. It failed because the SLS pipes were badly corroded and leaking fluid. I have been told that to replace the pipes and do the job properly, you have to drop the subframe and you are advised to replace the brake and fuel pipes, when you are there.
As I need both my arms and legs (as I got told that was what it would cost to repair), the alternative is to do a dry conversion, and do away with the hydraulic suspension altogether.
Therefore my questions are.....

1. Was the SLS standard equipment on the 230TE, or was it an option?
2. What is involved in doing a dry conversion and is it a bit more than just
replacing the shock absorbers from oil to gas filled?
3. Has anyone done this and was it successfull?

Thank in advance...Sean

 

[grober]

Have you considered the use of copper or cupro/nickel pipework which is much easier to work? Automec: Automotive Brake Pipe & Parts Specialists you might not have to drop the subframe??
Most estate experts will warn you off "dry conversions"

 

[ecossebev]

Most estate experts will warn you off "dry conversions"

Why? What are problems?

 

[Will]

It'll be more hassle and expensive to lose the SLS system, just replace the pipework IMHO. If you decided to replace the SLS you'd need to disconnect the system anyway (hydraulic pump/lines etc), then replace the hyrdraulic struts with dampers, replace the coil springs etc. Which would surely be more expensive and an inferior system?

Plus you'd need to declare that as modifications to your insurers etc.

New pipes and you'll be sorted

Will

 

[lynall]

Take them off and got to any hydraulic place and get some made up in high pressure rubber then fit them, they will probably have to use your old ends on the new pipes, same pipe as jcb diggers and the like have.
As they are naturally flexy should be easy to fit.



Lynall

 

[Druk]

Take them off and got to any hydraulic place and get some made up in high pressure rubber then fit them, they will probably have to use your old ends on the new pipes, same pipe as jcb diggers and the like have.
As they are naturally flexy should be easy to fit.



Lynall

That's the route I took. Very easy to fit but the banjo unions on the inner end were difficult to source.


.

 

[kth286]

and the problem with Mercedes replacement pipes is ....................???????

 

[grober]

and the problem with Mercedes replacement pipes is ....................???????

Fitting without dropping the subframe??

 

[kth286]

Sean

You need to identify from the parts diagram which pipes are actually leaking.

There are several joins in the complete system and it may be you only need the easy bits if pipe which Mercedes can supply.

All of the system will not be corroded and the good parts can still be used and brushed and coated.

 

[mattc]

See my thread here. You may find it surprisingly easy (if the corroded section is accessible!). Use a pipe cutter to get a clean cut (about £6 from Wickes) and 2 of the couplings that Richard gives the part number for...all you need is a bit of extra pipe to bridge the gap (ask nicely on the forum; someone's bound to have some on a breaker).

If I can do it than you can too. the most expensive bit will be the extra fluid you will need. I bought from Merc at £11 a litre but I understand you can buy from ECP for a fiver. depending how much you have already lost then you might need 2 litres.

 

[talbir]

Agree with mattc....MB's pipes are the whole length from front to back...no point sourcing them as usually only about 12 inches of length is corroded near the rear suspension area.

Source new small lengths of piping and hydraulic connectors from a hydraulics shop and it's easy...half of my cars with SLS (that's all the 560 w126s, 190e Cossies and 500e's plus w124 estate) had corroded sections of SLS piping - i have always only replaced the section that suffers corrosion and it has never cost me more than £30.


cheers
talbir

 

[talbir]

An additional point, if one decides to change from SLS to conventional shock absorbers, then the springs MUST be changed...SLS springs are different to conventional springs in that conventional ones are alot stiffer.


talbir

 

[Druk]

Maybe it's not the front to back pipes that are knacked. Maybe it's the bigger diam sphere to strut pipes that does require the subframe dropping.

 

[ash_2009]

very usefull information talbir..thanks

i just had a health check on my e220 1994 cabroilet, and have been advised to change ALL my fuel, brake and some other pipes as they are corroded near the suspension at the back. i had the car on the ramp and saw it for myself. it is correded about 12-18 inches or so on the straight part just before the pipes bend up and then split away. i really dont want to spend 1000 pounds on replacing ALL pipes.

have seen that you can just replace corroded parts...would you know where to get the hydralic connectors and pipes from? or maybe some specialist who would do this repair for me...i am near heathrow too.. (plus i work in a aquarium store..what a small world!!)

thanks again albir

ash

Agree with mattc....MB's pipes are the whole length from front to back...no point sourcing them as usually only about 12 inches of length is corroded near the rear suspension area.

Source new small lengths of piping and hydraulic connectors from a hydraulics shop and it's easy...half of my cars with SLS (that's all the 560 w126s, 190e Cossies and 500e's plus w124 estate) had corroded sections of SLS piping - i have always only replaced the section that suffers corrosion and it has never cost me more than £30.


cheers
talbir

 

[ash_2009]

hey matt

would this apply to corroded brake pipes as well as corroded fuel pipes...i really think its pointless changing the whole pipe system especially when only 12-18 inches at most is corroded....
you mention part numbers and so on and i also read from a russian site..where do i get this information and so on...your help will be appreicated

thanks
ash

See my thread here. You may find it surprisingly easy (if the corroded section is accessible!). Use a pipe cutter to get a clean cut (about £6 from Wickes) and 2 of the couplings that Richard gives the part number for...all you need is a bit of extra pipe to bridge the gap (ask nicely on the forum; someone's bound to have some on a breaker).

If I can do it than you can too. the most expensive bit will be the extra fluid you will need. I bought from Merc at £11 a litre but I understand you can buy from ECP for a fiver. depending how much you have already lost then you might need 2 litres.

 

[bigshineybike]

I asked Mercedes about buying replacement pipes. They could make me them to order at the factory. I needed to wait for a quote and they will take six weeks so I decided to repair locally instead.