Much of the above is correct, but bits of it are not.
The Sportline 124 is a reasonably sharp car if things are in good condition. Get someone to check ALL the steering linkages from the steering box to the road wheels including the wheel bearings. Replace linkages if there is any play. These cars are old enough now to need new steering components and suspension bushes. Freshens the car up quite a bit, especially a Sportline. If you need new ball joints you will be in for a surprise in that you need to replace the whole lower wishbone not just the ball joint - they are welded in. They are expensive to buy, but only two and half hours to fit comfortably both sides (plus a wheel alignment) if you know what you are doing! The good news is if you need new ball joints you will also get new wishbone suspension bushes as these come assembled in the wishbone and will further help freshen up the steering response. If one side needs doing then do both sides is my advice.
Suggest all these joints and links are inspected by someone who REALLY knows the 124, and not just a learner. There are a few and they are tested for play in different ways - not necessarily by just rocking the wheel from side to side - eg for the ball joints a lever is best.
Steering Gear is adjustable in the car. Again, do not let anybody near this unless they can demonstrate to you they know exactly what they are doing. MB have an instruction for this; 46-3230, attached. My suggestion is to get it done at a dealer by an older Tech. who has had factory training on 124's.
Make sure the dealership has the tools to check the steering friction torque though, and don't do it "by feel"!!!!! When they disconnect the steering box from the rest of the steering links, make sure they do it as per the instruction. Go over this first with them if you can. A technician will want to make the disconnection at the steering gear output shaft by removing the lever attached to the output shaft, it looks easier but this will change your ball point position (another steering geometric dimension), unless it goes back in exactly the same position. They need to measure the distance between the arm and the circlip that is there to stop the arm coming off the shaft if the arm clamp fails (near the b in picture P46-2564-13) -before removing it. This must be done accurately - possibly by using an allen key as a feeler gauge. The arm must be refitted exactly in the same position up and down the shaft on the spline – if they decide to remove the arm.
Ball Point Position can be measured with a special tool from MB and in my humble opinion it really should be measured on both the steering gear arm and the pitman arm before removing the arm from the steering gear if they insist on removing it. This is suggested so you know it goes back exactly where it came from. The MB instruction does not allow for removal of this arm but rather calls for the disconnection of the tie rod and drag link from it. That way the ball point position dimension will not be disturbed. It takes a little longer and this is why they like to remove the arm entirely.
Anyway, if your suspension bushes and links are in good nick and you get the correct amount of friction torque in your steering gear, the car will feel magnificent to drive, I know I have done just it and what a difference it made.
I hope it all makes sense, if not drop me a PM.......
Good luck with it and let us know how you get on,
W.
