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W164 Limp Mode Issue

AaronML320CDI

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Mar 20, 2022
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6
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Uk
Car
ML320CDI
2009 ML320 CDI W164. 90k. Driving okay. Then started to do a slight kangaroo/jumpy start when cold for a couple months. Now it’s gone into limp mode. Took it to a local garage and they said it’s thrown up lots of codes. Pointing towards the turbo and the MAF. Keeps saying low voltage. It could be anything. They advised me to take it too a Mercedes specialist with the correct software. Has anybody come across this weekend issue.? Would be grateful if help if anybody knows. Thanks.
 
Get the car to a Merc specialist with STAR, read the codes then clear them and drive a couple of trips and re-read to see what comes back.
If low voltage issues perhaps get the battery changed or at least on a trickle charger for a few nights?
Without codes it's all guesswork (and expensive)
 
That’s good honest advice by them to go to an MB specialist buddy , where do you live
 
Get the car to a Merc specialist with STAR, read the codes then clear them and drive a couple of trips and re-read to see what comes back.
If low voltage issues perhaps get the battery changed or at least on a trickle charger for a few nights?
Without codes it's all guesswork (and expensive)
Hi. Thanks for your message. I’ve recently put a new battery in the car. I will speak to the Merc specialist it’s going and ask if it has STAR. As you say fault finding can get expensive. Regards.
 
2009 ML320 CDI W164. 90k. Driving okay. Then started to do a slight kangaroo/jumpy start when cold for a couple months. Now it’s gone into limp snaptube vidmate mode. Took it to a local garage and they said it’s thrown up lots of codes. Pointing towards the turbo and the MAF. Keeps saying low voltage. It could be anything. They advised me to take it too a Mercedes specialist with the correct software. Has anybody come across this weekend issue.? Would be grateful if help if anybody knows. Thanks.
does the engine belt looks okay
 
2009 ML320 CDI W164. 90k. Driving okay. Then started to do a slight kangaroo/jumpy start when cold for a couple months. Now it’s gone into limp mode. Took it to a local garage and they said it’s thrown up lots of codes. Pointing towards the turbo and the MAF. Keeps saying low voltage. It could be anything. They advised me to take it too a Mercedes specialist with the correct software. Has anybody come across this weekend issue.? Would be grateful if help if anybody knows. Thanks.
Open the fusebox, under the bonnet, driver’s side of the car. Check the fuses. The circuit that supplies the swirl flap motor, egr valve, turbo positioner and maf share the same fuse.
 
Check your car bay battery and date on it..after timing chain jumped and fix on my car so many error came on, eco not working and car slugished when driving,some of the codes said low voltage, When I cleared the code it kept coming back.I bought original mb battery and all ok now.within 500 yard driving the eco green light came up.All code gone and car drives fine now.
 
I bought battery charger charged the battery up and when I checked date on battery it was 2012 and this is 2022.so check your battery first
 
Open the fusebox, under the bonnet, driver’s side of the car. Check the fuses. The circuit that supplies the swirl flap motor, egr valve, turbo positioner and maf share the same fuse.
Hi. The issue is the manifold actuator. There’s a fault with it and the swirl flaps or something. I’m no mechanic so may say it incorrectly. They’re going to try something to bypass it to see if it’s that. If any of that makes sense.
 
Hi. The issue is the manifold actuator. There’s a fault with it and the swirl flaps or something. I’m no mechanic so may say it incorrectly. They’re going to try something to bypass it to see if it’s that. If any of that makes sense.
Yeah, 25p resistor modification. The motor often blows the fuse we discussed earlier. If you replace the fuse and it blows again you unplug the relevant items one at a time until you find the culprit. Resistor mod is a bodge, but on an older car it can be the only cost-effective option
 
Yeah, 25p resistor modification. The motor often blows the fuse we discussed earlier. If you replace the fuse and it blows again you unplug the relevant items one at a time until you find the culprit. Resistor mod is a bodge, but on an older car it can be the only cost-effective option
Your absolutely spot on. It’s exactly what what the mechanic said in those terms too. You know what your talking about. Thank you for your advice. I’ll keep you posted. Regards.
 
Your absolutely spot on. It’s exactly what what the mechanic said in those terms too. You know what your talking about. Thank you for your advice. I’ll keep you posted. Regards.
I’m always mindful of future people’s searches bringing them to threads like this. The detail is really to help them, even though you are sorted. :)
 
Luckily the swirl flap motor on my 2010 A207 failed on Friday too. Extra lucky that it failed to s/c so took the fuse out which killed the car dead. Annoying that a non critical system fails which causes me to get stranded needing recovery. Last MB I had did the same just because a wheel speed sensor failed. Suppose most of the swirl flap motors will fail to o/c which just causes limp mode. Now trying to work out the easiest way to get us running again. Car is in limp mode now that I have disconnected the motor supply plug and replaced the fuse. Will try the resistor trick which may get if running properly while I decide next course of action.
 
Luckily the swirl flap motor on my 2010 A207 failed on Friday too. Extra lucky that it failed to s/c so took the fuse out which killed the car dead. Annoying that a non critical system fails which causes me to get stranded needing recovery. Last MB I had did the same just because a wheel speed sensor failed. Suppose most of the swirl flap motors will fail to o/c which just causes limp mode. Now trying to work out the easiest way to get us running again. Car is in limp mode now that I have disconnected the motor supply plug and replaced the fuse. Will try the resistor trick which may get if running properly while I decide next course of action.
Let us know how you get on buddy
 
So against my better judgement I fitted the 4.7k resistor across pin 2&3 of the plug to the swirl flap actuator motor. Sure enough the code cleared and the car came out of limp. Looks like my 2010 A207 doesn’t have the actuator arm position sensors so no codes as yet. I bought 2W resistor as the lead arms are a bit thicker and fit into plug contacts better. Although I put a bit of heat shrink around it is really just a temporary fix. Options now are to fix it, fit a plug with the resistor or map the actuator out. Although option one is the correct thing to do I am wary of going down that route right now. The motor failed s/c which makes me think the arms are either seized or the flaps are jammed up on carbon build up. If it is then it needs a inlet manifold de-coke as the actuator motor will just fail again. With the oil cooler issues too it would make sense to do that too while it is all stripped down. All in all quite a bit of work.
 
So against my better judgement I fitted the 4.7k resistor across pin 2&3 of the plug to the swirl flap actuator motor. Sure enough the code cleared and the car came out of limp. Looks like my 2010 A207 doesn’t have the actuator arm position sensors so no codes as yet. I bought 2W resistor as the lead arms are a bit thicker and fit into plug contacts better. Although I put a bit of heat shrink around it is really just a temporary fix. Options now are to fix it, fit a plug with the resistor or map the actuator out. Although option one is the correct thing to do I am wary of going down that route right now. The motor failed s/c which makes me think the arms are either seized or the flaps are jammed up on carbon build up. If it is then it needs a inlet manifold de-coke as the actuator motor will just fail again. With the oil cooler issues too it would make sense to do that too while it is all stripped down. All in all quite a bit of work.
I’ve had the resistor in for maybe 3 years now . My thinking is when I get an oil cooler seal leak , I will get that fixed along with the manifolds cleaned out as well along with a new inlet port motor/swirl flaps .
 

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