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W202 C43

Col357

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2022
Messages
3
Location
Ipswich
Car
W126 500sel w202 C43 w126 420 sel W211
Hi All,
I have a few Mercedes-Benz. I last week bought bought a W reg W202 C43 Wagon. In metallic blue with Blk leather and “carbon” trim.
Would like to see what people have to say ref these AMG,s.
 
I liked mine , they rot quite badly
The one o bought has done 157,000 16 services last one at 156,000 at a MB specialist had some brake pipes replaced. Some welding and an mot.
So mot till end Nov 22.
New tyres
All original inc stereo
Sunroof
Having the rocker gaskets replaced next week and a new oil filler cap.
 
Great cars, provided you stay on top of any corrosion issues and treat the gearbox kindly. I've recently bought one after wanting one for 20 years! I started off as Mercedes-Benz apprentice technician in '99 when they were brand new, so I've seen most things that can go wrong with most Mercedes models. The W202 as a whole is a pretty solid car (frilly bodywork aside), and the M113 engine is nigh on bulletproof too. Parts availability is still pretty good in general and they're a doddle to work on as well.

Not the most dynamically adept car to ever wear the AMG badge, but I've always loved them. Taking the V8 from a large saloon and dropping it in the "compact" model was the original 60s muscle car recipe, and that's exactly the kind of vibe you get from a C43.

full
 
@ RogerSausage

The 722.631 five speed transmission on C43 is it as bad as people say it is?
Weak brass bearings fitted to sun gear on early MY98 to mid MY99 cars, transmission might possible explode internally after 200,000 miles of use?
Does regular oil changes help prevent wear on transmission preventing from sun gear to explode?
 
@ RogerSausage

The 722.631 five speed transmission on C43 is it as bad as people say it is?
Weak brass bearings fitted to sun gear on early MY98 to mid MY99 cars, transmission might possible explode internally after 200,000 miles of use?
Does regular oil changes help preserve the wear on transmission preventing from sun gear to explode?
I wouldn't say it's fair to call it bad as such, it's just not unheard of for them to fail during "spirited" driving. I have seen a couple over the years that have looked like a grenade has gone off inside, but on every occasion it's happened whilst having the throttle buried, and also with "questionable" service history. Sometimes sun gears like you say, and I've seen twisted splines and failed input shafts as well; but to be honest it's usually been the 722.602.

Regular oil changes definitely help, the most important element being changing all of the oil, not just what sits in the pan. Just dropping the pan and filter only drains about 60% or so of the fluid, it's really important to get the other 3-4 litres out of the torque converter and associated lines too. The "sealed for life" thing that Mercedes said about the 722.6 'box was never a great idea in the first place, and I've always gone with a 40,000 schedule for both customers and my own cars when fitted with one.

On paper the 722.631 is rated to 580Nm, so given proper maintenance and not being subjected to an abusive right foot all the time, there's no reason they can't be reliable.
 
Before I bought my car many years ago I got several issues of Merceds Enthusiasts magazine buyers guide for C36 and C43.
The articles mentioned that C36 from MY97 fitted with the very first 5 speed electronic transmission was prone to have major problems and so did the C43 from MY98 to mid 99 before tiptronic was released for MY00 which was the improved stronger transmission.

Most problems with these trannies happened from a slipping transmission losing gears.

Once I lost drive coming into a sharp left turn at a stop light, I passed on yellow when I had to stop but I was too lazy to stop so I floored it!
On the main road just after the sharp turn after the red light I had to straighten the wheel and all of a sudden I lost drive, transmission didn't want to engage for several seconds.

I don't know what happened just at that moment why my car didn't want to drive forward?
After a few seconds it all went back to normal again and transmission working OK.


Last year I had an oil service with filter and pilot bush replaced.
I told the specialist to drain the pan and complete TQ then he flushed the system oil lines through the oil cooler until new oil was coming out.
This is the proper way of changing oil.
Dealership only drains the pan and lets the TQ keep the old dirty oil to mix with the new oil from the pan.
New oil gets dirty very quick.
No good! 👎
 
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Great cars, provided you stay on top of any corrosion issues and treat the gearbox kindly. I've recently bought one after wanting one for 20 years! I started off as Mercedes-Benz apprentice technician in '99 when they were brand new, so I've seen most things that can go wrong with most Mercedes models. The W202 as a whole is a pretty solid car (frilly bodywork aside), and the M113 engine is nigh on bulletproof too. Parts availability is still pretty good in general and they're a doddle to work on as well.

Not the most dynamically adept car to ever wear the AMG badge, but I've always loved them. Taking the V8 from a large saloon and dropping it in the "compact" model was the original 60s muscle car recipe, and that's exactly the kind of vibe you get from a C43.

full
That's a lovely looking thing.
 
That's a lovely looking thing.
Thank you, I love it ☺️🍻

Before I bought my car many years ago I got several issues of Merceds Enthusiasts magazine buyers guide for C36 and C43.
The articles mentioned that C36 from MY97 fitted with the very first 5 speed electronic transmission was prone to have major problems and so did the C43 from MY98 to mid 99 before tiptronic was released for MY00 which was the improved stronger transmission.

Most problems with these trannies happened from a slipping transmission losing gears.

Once I lost drive coming into a sharp left turn at a stop light, I passed on yellow when I had to stop but I was too lazy to stop so I floored it!
On the main road just after the sharp turn after the red light I had to straighten the wheel and all of a sudden I lost drive, transmission didn't want to engage for several seconds.

I don't know what happened just at that moment why my car didn't want to drive forward?
After a few seconds it all went back to normal again and transmission working OK.


Last year I had an oil service with filter and pilot bush replaced.
I told the specialist to drain the pan and complete TQ then he flushed the system oil lines through the oil cooler until new oil was coming out.
This is the proper way of changing oil.
Dealership only drains the pan and lets the TQ keep the old dirty oil to mix with the new oil from the pan.
New oil gets dirty very quick.
No good! 👎

Yeah the early version of the transmission was only rated to somewhere around 380Nm from memory, not brilliant.

As you say, most issues are slipping clutches caused by either low fluid level or very dirty fluid (or a mix of new and old).
 
If you like grunty V8 sound, remove mid silencer and replace it with a straight pipe.
Then you can play with the throttle when you drive, every kickdown is heard like a grunt when the V8 roars! :rock:
No need to turn on the audio system in your car. ;)
 
If you like grunty V8 sound, remove mid silencer and replace it with a straight pipe.
Then you can play with the throttle when you drive, every kickdown is heard like a grunt when the V8 roars! :rock:
No need to turn on the audio system in your car. ;)
Agreed! I had my secondary cats and resonator removed after 2 days 😂
 
Agreed! I had my secondary cats and resonator removed after 2 days 😂

Now your car is even more raspier without the rear cats.
I don't want to go that far if I get problems with MOT?
Mid silencer removed MOT people can't tell my exhaust has been reworked as it still looks OE.
 
Not for me it stays 100% oem.
I agree for everything else, but I always thought they should've been slightly more "vocal" from the factory. To redress the balance I removed the awful aero wiper to put an OE blade in place and just installed an original "AMG recommends Mobil 1" decal under the bonnet too. I even plan to keep the dreadful non-Bose Audio 10 and tinny speakers 😂. I've just ordered all the clips and gaskets/seals from the dealer so I can remove and refit the sill covers to tidy things up too 👍🏼
Now your car is even more raspier without the rear cats.
I don't want to go that far if I get problems with MOT?
Mid silencer removed MOT people can't tell my exhaust has been reworked as it still looks OE.
It's not really raspy at all to be honest, it sounds great under acceleration but is still silent when cruising. As far as the MOT goes, the primary cats are more than effective enough to get through emissions. As for the visuals, there aren't many testers that even know what a C43 is, never mind how many cats were installed from the factory 😂
 
Many years ago Olly at PCS made a kit with straight pipes replacing mid silencer also removing rear cats.
Exhaust sound was very raspier, there were two C43 videos uploaded on Youtube with Olly's kit but can't find them anymore.
I thought you had the same sound using a straight pipe?

Can you tell me if this is normal?
Checking stock AMG muffler tips.
On the bottom part of the oval end tips, my tips are a bit soothy and there is also like a dry white layer of something like condensation?
I have seen the soothy tips on many C43's, is this normal with the white layer of dry condensation or what ever it is?
 
Many years ago Olly at PCS made a kit with straight pipes replacing mid silencer also removing rear cats.
Exhaust sound was very raspier, there were two C43 videos uploaded on Youtube with Olly's kit but can't find them anymore.
I thought you had the same sound using a straight pipe?

Can you tell me if this is normal?
Checking stock AMG muffler tips.
On the bottom part of the oval end tips, my tips are a bit soothy and there is also like a dry white layer of something like condensation?
I have seen the soothy tips on many C43's, is this normal with the white layer of dry condensation or what ever it is?
I know of Olly's decat, but I've never heard one in person to be honest.

Mine was done by PD Gough in Nottingham, quite renowned in classic and supercar circles for their work. The new portion starts at the front flanges (replaced with fresh ones as the originals were a bit "delicate") and runs as two stainless pipes right down to where the end of the standard resonator would finish; then to a Y-piece, a short straight and then sleeved to the standard backbox. It sounds perfect to me, a lovely rumble under load but perfectly quiet whilst cruising.

As for the tailpipes, they're pretty much all sooty yeah! The condensation though isn't something I'd say is common, unless you do a lot of short journeys?
 
As for the tailpipes, they're pretty much all sooty yeah! The condensation though isn't something I'd say is common, unless you do a lot of short journeys?

Regarding whitish layer which is on the end tips with the soot?
I don't know what this whitish layer is?
Condensation?
It's not much but it's there looking like white chalk mixed with soot.

I always drive my car warm for 20 to 30 min as a long loop when I'm out before I turn it off going shopping.
 
Regarding whitish layer which is on the end tips with the soot?
I don't know what this whitish layer is?
Condensation?
It's not much but it's there looking like white chalk mixed with soot.

I always drive my car warm for 20 to 30 min as a long loop when I'm out before I turn it off going shopping.
Hard to say for sure without seeing it to be honest. Obviously water is a byproduct of combustion, so you'd expect a bit of vapour and condensation around the tailpipes, especially from cold. But I wouldn't expect that to be white or chalky.
 

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