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W202 suspension, What goes wrong?

tron

Active Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
705
Location
Bournemouth or France
Car
S203 220CDI.
There appear to be more bushes than Kew Gardens in the rear suspension. I am guessing that at 150,000 miles, it is due a refresh but I'd like to know what the weak points are before I begin. Car is on standard wheels and tyres 15". The ride height is standard and staying that way. Lemforder have what looks to be a comprehensive kit for about £170. is it worth while or am I buying stuff and work I don't really need? Do the toe and camber need to be adjusted or is it just a bolt on job with all the eccentric bolts only fitted to the lowered and tweaked cars?
One more thing, mine is an estate. Is the rear suspension the same as a saloon? I have new springs and dampers fitted already.
 
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There appear to be more bushes than Kew Gardens in the rear suspension. I am guessing that at 150,000 miles, it is due a refresh but I'd like to know what the weak points are before I begin. Car is on standard wheels and tyres 15". The ride height is standard and staying that way. Lemforder have what looks to be a comprehensive kit for about £170. is it worth while or am I buying stuff and work I don't really need? Do the toe and camber need to be adjusted or is it just a bolt on job with all the eccentric bolts only fitted to the lowered and tweaked cars?
One more thing, mine is an estate. Is the rear suspension the same as a saloon? I have new springs and dampers fitted already.

Asside from rust, the only areas of the rear worth worrying about are the diff oil, which usually completely runs out (leaks) by 150-200k and the diff can let go.

The rear suspension on the rear isn't adjustable for tow or camber, so unless you have bad handling or noise etc, the rear bushes aren't mission critical.

The front end will wear on the upper and lower knuckle ball joints because of the weight of the car.
The ARB outer link bushes wear oval again because of the weight of the car.

Front wheel bearings need tightening whenever I've looked at one (mag-base DTI gauge needed to set end float).

Front spring perches can and do rust (CHECK THESE!).

If you do need to change any bushes, I made some drawings for rudimentary puller tools rather than buying them if you need any info just PM me.

If you jack a front wheel and find there is a lot of rock (when you are checking for up down movement in the wheel bearings) but in a right-left motion and it feels like lots of play in the steering rack, that will be the linkage which connects the two wheel hubs, which is driven by the steering box. This linkage has 4 ball joints and usually has play if not recently replaced. They are about £40 and easy with a scissor ball joint splitter.

Also note the remaining play you have afterwards will be due to the w202 having a steering box.. Steering box pass in an MOT allows a lot more movement (slack) than a steering rack so don't worry too much.

All the above are easy jobs and you will probably find most of them will need doing on investigation, as has happened with me. I got a Haynes manual from the eBay for a fiver for some of the procedures & TQ settings. Apparently I am old enough to know that FT is not a torque setting..

Beers.
 

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