W210 Ignition Switch

[E55BOF]

The car is a '98 W210 E55. Yesterday evening in the car park it would not start (finally got it home on the back of a truck at 4 a.m, but that's another story). It turns over just fine on the key, very rapidly indeed with a new battery connected, but no start. I can move the gear selector as normal. Two key fobs give exactly the same result.

I notice that the SRS and ignition/no charge warning lights don't light up when I turn the ignition on. Also, when the key is turned to the cranking position, it does not spring back to the running position when it is released; it just carries on cranking.

I think the mechanical part of the ignition switch, which actually makes the electrical contacts when I turn the key, has partially failed. Does anyone disagree with this, and if not, could some kind soul please advise on the part number I require to fix it, and the best place to obtain one if not Fleabay?

Please help; it absolutely has to be fixed by tomorrow evening if at all possible, so I need to obtain the switch asap.

E55BOF

 

[guydewdney]

if its anything like the 202 of the same vintage, the key switch is coded to the steering lock and the ecu, so you need to buy all three together, which is going to be hellishly 'spensive on a 55....

 

[E55BOF]

Thanks Guy. That is the worst option, but the electronics (the expensive part) seem to be fine, so I'm rather hoping that it will be possible to repair the unit by replacing the mechanical part of it. I'll get the assembly off later today (very easy job, as I found out when the chap who programmed ny new key removed it to interrogate the chip), and have a little look at it to see whether a repair looks possible. Unless Somebody Who Knows tells me definitively that repair is not feasible, there are a number of possible assemblies on Fleabay, which is why I need the part number.

Fingers crossed....

 

[E55BOF]

Doesn't look hopeful...

I'll get it put on a STAR asap (tomorrow I hope) at my local indie to confirm the diagnosis, then I rather expect to have to bite the bullet and give my friendly local dealer just under £500 to supply a new unit and code it to the car. Plus transporting it to the indie, and to the dealer. Still, I've had it a year, and spent nothing on it bar servicing, so can't complain too much, I suppose.