Waxoiled ?

[tonyc280]

Well i pulled the boot lining back today to change a bulb and noticed there was a waxy coating all over the metalwork and down in above the wheel arches too. i'm guessing it was done by a previous owner who thought ahead. Think i owe whoever did it a great big thank-you as i have seen some real rot boxes of w202's on here and horrified by some of the pictures. Am guessing the inside of the cills were done inside too as totally rot free too. Sorry i know i keep going on about my car but love it when its all cleaned a prepped and also filthy as well as not had time to clean it recently as not felt well enough.

 

[Lyserman]

You do like to rub it in, lol.
It is good to hear that Waxoyl really does what it is meant to.
I am planning on giving my 203 some waxoyl to keep the beast at bay.
Tony

 

[jaymanek]

There is some wax applied at factory too..

 

[tonyc280]

If so i wonder why there are so many rot boxes around ?. T.

 

[hondo]

Sills rust usually because they hav been jacket up on wrong place maybe just creating a small dent or crack in underseal or jst a stonechip can start it ,this then lets in water and traps it there which creates a little bit of rust the sealer then lifts and the rust spreads over the years untill it's bad enough for some1 2 notice

Front wings rust as a result of the splash guard stopping about 2inches from wheelarch again stones chip this area around inner arch brake paint water gets in =rust
also if u look at the way front wing on w202 is shaped the arch is just a trench that will fill with mud /grit/salt which in the winter is constantly wet
Rear arches are actually quite well designed on the 202 and other than using a thicker sealer and harder coating over sealer i cant see how to improve on mercs original design ,the section between the moulding 4 inch up from sill to rear bumper is folded and well sealed from factory but eventually water finds its way in
Doors just don't hav enough wax inside em and the holes for lower moulding start to rot out
Bootlids are a disaster round lock just impossible to get a good coating of paint on edge and numberplate lamp plinths rub on bootlid and break paint

They are actually well sealed from factory underneath I think so many are rusty because there's so many of them left on the roads because they are hard old motors lapping up the miles and just keep on going

Iv just got my car into paint shop tonight for respray after a 4 month marathon of rust eradication ,4 new doors ,bootlid ,1 wing and complete underside repair reseal and recoat with raptor truck bed liner (lets see how em stones get on chipping that) my daily commute is 100 miles in the north of Scotland we get about 3 days a year when it's not raining /snowing or both .my cars never been wax oiled or rust treated in any way and after 200k I never had to put a welder near it not even 1 bit required patching ,however it took me about 2yrs to find bootlid and doors with out even a blip of rust in the end I had to settle for an important bootlid with square numberplate recess

 

[Roderick Plinge]

Waxoyl...

I just had a quote today to professionally Waxoyl and underseal my '93 K reg 190 - £395+VAT. Initially I thought wow! especially as it's only guaranteed for five years but then I guess that's not a bad price for the work involved as they estimate five hours to do the job thoroughly.

 

[jaymanek]

It takes me a good day to do one car properly... most time is preparation.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Crikey - Classic Car Project Shop did my XM for £295 all in, (IIRC recall Olly at PCS does it for similar) and that was a full days work. For 5 hours work, that's a lot Roderick!

 

[joecash]

don't forget to do the wheel arches every year or so they take a hammering

 

[mmctle]

It’s a big, messy and tedious job to Waxoyle properly... I always use it 50% thinned in the cavities and use a high pressure pot to squirt it in there with a long 5mm lance. By adjusting the air/fluid mix on the pot I can get it to almost atomise! In fact when I recently did my MX5 I noticed that the interior light on top of the windowscreen was dim, and when I checked I found the inside of the lens had a coat of waxoyle! As I was poking the wand (OHHHH EERRR) inside one of the cavities it must have gone up inside the window screen pillar!

I have recently done my SLK55 AMG, just for peace of mind really as I think they are pretty well rust proofed anyway, it can’t do any harm!

I also use ACF-50 on the alloy engine components; this really does keep engines looking nice! I have been using this for 15 years and it works. Lots of bikers use the stuff now.

 

[Miss Ellie]

I got my R107 waxoiled at Rustmasters near Knutsford earlier in the year - expensive at north of 500 quid but they seems to do a thorough job. However when I took it to Hilton Moss in Bishops Stortford their R107 specialist, Parry Chana, was quite concerned about its being used and suggested that as it remains sticky over time it will collect dirt which will absorb water and cause rust problems - especially round the headlight area. He suggested sticking with MB approved coatings that do the same job ...

 

[BillyW124]

I got my R107 waxoiled at Rustmasters near Knutsford earlier in the year - expensive at north of 500 quid but they seems to do a thorough job. However when I took it to Hilton Moss in Bishops Stortford their R107 specialist, Parry Chana, was quite concerned about its being used and suggested that as it remains sticky over time it will collect dirt which will absorb water and cause rust problems - especially round the headlight area. He suggested sticking with MB approved coatings that do the same job ...

It needs to stay a little sticky otherwise if it hardens it will crack. I've had mine done 3 years ago by rustmaster and is holding up very well indeed

 

[tonyc280]

It’s a big, messy and tedious job to Waxoyle properly... I always use it 50% thinned in the cavities and use a high pressure pot to squirt it in there with a long 5mm lance. By adjusting the air/fluid mix on the pot I can get it to almost atomise! In fact when I recently did my MX5 I noticed that the interior light on top of the windowscreen was dim, and when I checked I found the inside of the lens had a coat of waxoyle! As I was poking the wand (OHHHH EERRR) inside one of the cavities it must have gone up inside the window screen pillar!

I have recently done my SLK55 AMG, just for peace of mind really as I think they are pretty well rust proofed anyway, it can’t do any harm!

I also use ACF-50 on the alloy engine components; this really does keep engines looking nice! I have been using this for 15 years and it works. Lots of bikers use the stuff now.

Sure looks like you've a professional job there with your pressure pot. Top job, T.

 

[hondo]

I'm still sticking to my guns that waxoyl is for cavities and not exposed areas
Yes it will protect and it won't crack but dirt will stick to it worse road salt will stick to it !
It's easy to put on and hides a multitude of sins but its not an underbody coating and it's certainly not a suspension coating .

Iv seen older guys using used engine oil sprayed through a Schultz gun on the underside of there cars that remains wet from year to year
But it's messy and drips for days lol

 

[mmctle]

I'm still sticking to my guns that waxoyl is for cavities and not exposed areas
Yes it will protect and it won't crack but dirt will stick to it worse road salt will stick to it !
It's easy to put on and hides a multitude of sins but its not an underbody coating and it's certainly not a suspension coating .

Iv seen older guys using used engine oil sprayed through a Schultz gun on the underside of there cars that remains wet from year to year
But it's messy and drips for days lol

Well I am going to disagree I have been using Waxoyle since 1978 when I first used it on a lancia Beta. I sold that car 25 years later with all its original panels, how many lancia cars of that era can claim that! I used it on many cars since and never had a problem with corrosion, unless I missed a bit, usually inside a cavity. I will agree that it stays slightly sticky, but I don't feel it attracts the dirt anymore than anything else. It does need to be re-applied though in areas of high abrasion like wheel arches. I give my cars a jet wash and top up every few years.

I also like to use it on suspension parts. I did the underside of an early MK1 Audi TT when they first came out, and when I came to sell it, I wanted it to look mint, so I took the wheels off and sprayed the suspension components with some white spirit and let it soak in... and then jet washed it off. The suspension components came up like new.

I know there are other products on the market, and if you listen to the marketing guys they are always the best (don't they always say that if they are trying to sell you something!!) But I will be sticking with Waxoyle as it has a proven track record for me, and it works. I don't have enough years left to test another product for 35 years!

 

[hondo]

I understand it does protect and by far the easiest way to protect the underside of a car ,but on areas where splash guards etc chafe on metal it will do more harm than good ,I'm sure it would give brilliant results on low mileage cars that spend most of there life garaged but for constant daily abuse It's not for me

Waxoyl is cheap ,why would manufacturers only use it in cavities if it was so good ?

 

[mmctle]

I understand it does protect and by far the easiest way to protect the underside of a car ,but on areas where splash guards etc chafe on metal it will do more harm than good ,I'm sure it would give brilliant results on low mileage cars that spend most of there life garaged but for constant daily abuse It's not for me

Waxoyl is cheap ,why would manufacturers only use it in cavities if it was so good ?

I agree that where you have something like a wheel arch liner abrading against the metal parts of the car something like Waxoyle would not be the best solution. I guess in that situation it may be best to solve the root cause and eradicate the area/source of abrasion, or use a localised high build finish? Where the wheel arch liner contacts the wing lip on my SLK, I did use some stone chip there, but there was no rust, and no seam to worry about.

I am definitely not saying that Waxoyle should be used by vehicle manufactures on the underside of the vehicle; there are far better products you can use on a brand new car…

However, on an older car where there is already rust in the seams and joints, it’s a good product to prevent or slow down any corrosion that is already there. I think the worst thing you can do on an older car is spray the underside (or worse in the cavities) with a solvent based sealer/paint that fully hardens. It will eventually crack and make the problem worse, not better. What you need is something that will leach into the joints and seams, rather than lie on top of them and trap the rust in there.

It’s one of the issues with paint/seam sealer/ Shultz/ rubberised coatings… when its applied it never goes on evenly (particularly in the corners and joints, just where you need good protection) and the differences in thickness cause it to cure at different rates, and this causes it to eventually crack. Have a look at some of the Peugeots from the mid 80’s where they have corroded in every location seam sealer has been used… Scrape some off that looks good and you will still find corrosion in the seam underneath.

I inspected a Mini a few years ago that was an older restoration. It had had extensive welding and panel replacement, and had been sand blasted back to bare metal. The shell had then been seam sealed, undersealed, and then painted. Unfortunately despite all the work and sand blasting, the corrosion was already in many of the joints and within a few years there was rust bubbling all over the place.

A couple of months ago I inspected a lancia that had a £15,000 restoration 9 months previous. To look at it, fantastic job, but the owner noticed some rust stains in a few areas… when I looked, it had been sprayed with a rubbery type coating on the underside, which looked great but was already flaking off… Worse though on that particular car was inside the sills. I used a tiny video camera to look in the cavities and was horrified to see just gobs of cavity wax in there, and rusty metal. Also parts of the inner sills missing! Looking at the photographs the company had sent him, they were of a different car being restored, and you could just make out areas where the paint was a different colour! That one is now subject to a court case with the restoration company.

Incidentally, the small video cameras you can now get on the end of a 3 meter lead are great for looking inside cavities! They are only 10mm diameter and have an LED light on them, and plug into a laptop. Great for inspecting and taking pictures/ videos inside cavities and you can get them on Ebay for less than £10!

One of the things I like about Waxoyle is its ability to creep into Joints. I did an MX5 recently (what a little rot box they are!) and when I did inside the sills, I could see the Waxoyle coming out the seams on the top! Here is a picture before; unfortunately I didn’t take one after with it leaching out the joints! I also did inside the rear wheel arches, and noticed it running out the outside lip! Also one inside a door using the small inspection camera.

 

[hondo]

You know your stuff about rust that's for sure !!

prior to my days of diesels mercs I put my faith in the mighty Peugeot xud I had 3 205 in my youth and I never found em to be at all rusty well in comparison with the novas and fiestas of the time ,the thing with sealer stonechip etc is if water gets behind it it's game over it's trapped
And will wreak havoc

I spend my life welding rotten cars and its a constant battle ,I'm always trying to think of better ways to beat it ,rear arches in particular ,repair arches are a waist of time most people DNt want to spend the money on full quarter panels (including myself ) ,Iv tried all sorts of treatments ,converters and body solder ,the simple fact is mild steel rusts

I wonder how the high strength steels that most modern cars are build with stand up to it in years to come

 

[mmctle]

You know your stuff about rust that's for sure !!

prior to my days of diesels mercs I put my faith in the mighty Peugeot xud I had 3 205 in my youth and I never found em to be at all rusty well in comparison with the novas and fiestas of the time ,the thing with sealer stonechip etc is if water gets behind it it's game over it's trapped
And will wreak havoc

I spend my life welding rotten cars and its a constant battle ,I'm always trying to think of better ways to beat it ,rear arches in particular ,repair arches are a waist of time most people DNt want to spend the money on full quarter panels (including myself ) ,Iv tried all sorts of treatments ,converters and body solder ,the simple fact is mild steel rusts

I wonder how the high strength steels that most modern cars are build with stand up to it in years to come

You are right about the 205… The picture below is of my mates 1992 205 Diesel and his wife’s 2000 106 Peugeot. The 205 has done 350,000 miles, the last 100,000 mainly on chip fat There is not a single patch of rust on it anywhere; the underside of the body is like new. Contrast that with the 106 which is rotten all over. I am not sure if this is down to the steel used or the way the body was treated at the factory with the paint finish and sealer. There is minimal rust protection on the 205 and I can’t see any evidence of wax injection into the cavities.

I was at the Mot station the other day and they had just failed a 2003 Mazda 6 for corrosion. You could put your fingers in the holes in the sills The next mot was a 2003 Renault Scenic, battered and uncared for, but the underside was like new, no sign of rust. I guess some manufactures get it right sometimes and others very wrong, like Mercedes in the early 2000’s and Mazda now who seem to have a real problem with corrosion on their cars.

I too spent many years welding patches into rusty cars… I try hard to avoid it nowadays!

 

[hondo]

In my mind there's only modern cars with real rust issues

X type jaguar (sills are rotten ) Iv patched and remade more of them than I can count ,just no protection on them at all under plastic trims

Then there's the afore mentioned Mazda every model of Mazda is just an abortion ,there rotboxes this is 1 of the reasons I defend mercedes so much when people slate there 15yr old merc thats done 232k coz there wings a bit rusty and the bottom of there doors got a hole in it ,you get this free when you buy a 2 yr old Mazda with 23 k on the clock lol

And what can I say about the 205 ,my first was a d reg van that had more hits than the Beatles and was a burgundy colour jst what a 17 yr old wanted but my dad got it for nothing so it was good enough for me ( It ended up with gti interior ,auto bonnet ,xs bumpers and full respray ) next I got a 205 stdt which wasn't 1 of my better buys I was you g had sold van and wanted an stdt I bought the first 1 I found and it had been trashed to death from new but still body work was mint after about 3 years of daily use I had it just right then sold it l had few cars inbetween but then ended up with a k reg xld which I bought with snapped timing belt ,405 turbo d engine in and off we went ,i loved that car it also got the full works leather interior respray etc

As I got older had kids and bought a house 50 miles from my work i ended up with a 2.1 12v td 406 but timing belt snapped prematurely on it 1 Friday on route to work ,I had a c250 td sport that I'd bought accident damaged that I planned to repair and sell but when timing belt snapped on 406 I never had any other mode of transport I blitzed the c250 into shape same day ,it sailed its mot on Saturday morning and Iv never looked back ! whilst Iv had it off the road past 3 months for total rust eradication and prevention ready for the next 200k it's drove me mad ,1 week after I started work on it severed tendon on my thumb and been useless 4 12 weeks ! ,I carried on with 1 hand but the tasks you can do are limited

My journey man was a mercedes trained panelbeater and worked with mercedes only for over 20yrs he would not exept that any car was equal to mercedes and my dad was same he had the 124 for almost 20 years ,I held out that Peugeot diesel was the finest but in the end I was converted by the om605 turbo !

Iv also spent to long getting burned arms n blobs of molten metal in my ears patching rotten cars ,my dad was an hgv mechanic untill he retired a few yrs back and he hated welding rot I wonder why he encouraged me to be a panel beater rather than a mechanic lol

Christ Iv just wrote war and peace I think