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What I Found Inside My 722.6 Gearbox

big x

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I changed the oil and filter on my Jan 1997 C-180 5 speed electronic gearbox at the weekend and as expected the filter which fits between the sump and the bottom of the box had never been changed before. It was date stamped 8/96. Before my time with the car MB had changed the oil but clearly couldn't be bothered to drop the sump!
When the sump is dropped (be careful doing this as there is around a half litre in the sump even after removing the plug) there is a date of manufacture inside the box. Mine was made in November 96 and is number 211811. I had read that on these early 722.6 boxes one of the main bearings was bronze and can start to break up however taking the filter apart (its a small flat type nothing like an oil filter) and using a loupe I couldn't find any silver or bronze particles. In fact, despite being 8 years old and have 100000 miles it was like new. There was no sludge at the bottom of the pan only a small amount of black particles from the clutch plates.
Interestingly the filter is perhaps not designed to collect the material from the clutch pack which is what must turn the oil red to dark brown but only any metal particles. If the filter was of finer gauge I think it would get blocked with the clutch particles at higher mileage as the filter is so small.
I can see why ZF and Mercedes who make electronic boxes say these boxes are filled for life because they don't have the small passage ways that hydraulic boxes do so a calculation must have been done that the synthetic oil will still have enough lubrication properties right up until the clutch friction material wears out and a recon box is needed.See http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm for a detailed explanation of how automatic gearboxes and torque convertors function). However even though the oil was good in my box I did notice an improvement with new oil which rather undermines what Mercedes say. A slight further improvement occurs if you reset the adaptive memory of the boxes ECU by disconnecting the car battery.
By doing a bit of digging on the internet I'm sure the special MB gearoil is in fact Esso ATF LT 71141. This a special synthetic oil made for electronic boxes and is used by ZF in BMW's etc.The spec is the same.
One last thing reading these forums and the American versions, one might imagine MB boxes go wrong more than other makes.NOT TRUE, I looked at the claim figures on the warrantydirect site(possibly warrantywise I can't remember) and in any one year of those people making claims only 3% of those claims where for gearbox problems. In other words less than 1% of boxes of those insured needed work. Given that things like errant MAF readings can give erratic gearchanging, back street garages using wrong dextron II which gives bad changes and boy racer trashing the true figure is probably even smaller for properly used and cared for boxes. The Lexus failure rate was also around 3 %.. No one makes a better automatic box than Mercedes :bannana:


adam
 
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interesting - where did you find the information about the esso ATF fluid? (without being rude) can you substantiate (sp?) your claim?

Im glad for you that the main bearing hasnt gone pop - mine did and cost a fortune...(its the one from the main in to main out shaft, its about 1/2" diameter with no oil groove :rolleyes:
 
Good post. You will get an improvement simply because the old ATF, even if not oxidised, will have broken down to some extent and thinned out. Makers of all the sealed for life boxes assume that the vehicle will, under average operating conditions, have an average time before failure that does not exceed the average failure period of the fluid, because fluid breakdown is the root cause of much autobox woe.

Trouble with all that is the dreaded word "average". Mr Average will be happy enough and silent of course, but sadly in simple numeric terms there will be quite a lot of vehicles that fall into the unpleasant bits of the normal distribution curve: they are the ones we hear about.

So fluid changes are a sound preventative measure for the cautious, like me!

The filters are just to stop "big" particles getting into the works but I understand they can sometimes cause trouble of themselves because certain types can suffer A partial collapse and impede fluid flow.

BTW, I have read that the 722.6 box works best when the fluid level is at the maximum level. Something to do with that reducing the number of air bubbles present in the fluid.


Regards


S.
 
More info on the Esso oil can as ever be found doing a Google search eg.
http://www.jie.com/oilref.htm
In fact MB is not a bad place to buy replacement oil as it's cheaper than many other dealers, American Jag dealers for example charge $42 a litre ! and actually Mercedes make some of the electronic Jag boxes.
Re- transfilter it cannot collapse as the element is only half an inch thick but I was keen to change it as if it gets blocked or breaks up the supply from the sump will be restricted :crazy: and of course looking at the sump deposits is a very good guide to potential problems.
I did play around with oil levels and 1 litre short did make the change from second to first slightly clunky although I have to say getting the exact level does not seem critical to good changes.
I've read on later cars the sump plug on the torque convertor has been deleted. This is bad news for the DIY person as the complete system of box,convertor and cooling lines to the radiator holds 9.3 litres but only 2 to 2.5 litres come out of the sump drain. So the easy option here is to get a main dealer to do it by connecting the radiator return and feed lines into their machine and pumping the oil in.


adam
 
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I did play around with oil levels and 1 litre short did make the change from second to first slightly clunky although I have to say getting the exact level does not seem critical to good changes.



adam[/QUOTE]

Having just read an Honest John.co.uk thread on 722.6 boxes by Aprilia (Who is a respected contributor).I note that he is adamant that the correct oil level is critical.

There was a great deal of controversey in the early days of these boxes,when there was a minor spate of failures, whether or not to the renew oil.

I fully subscribe to preventative servicing;however, knowing that MB are reasonably judicious when considering the projected life of components, I remain indecisive on the subject.

Have there been any significant internal modifications to these boxes?

Splitpin
 
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Put it this way, I've seen about 3 722.6 boxes drained now at a garage (and a stealer). Out of those three, not one dropped out clean oil - in my case, it was a black syrup. Given the fact it is a hydraulic system where the oil not only has to lubricate, but is also under pressure, I simply refuse to subscribe to the school of thought that it is fit for life. Anyway - the previous 4 speed box had fluid change intervals, so what miracle hailed the introduction of filled for life? Presumably synthetic oil?

All I can conclude is that it is a move on DC's part to sell you a new 'box as opposed to charging you £120 or whatever to drop the oil out and replace it.
 
I admit to not being fully up to date on this particular subject & have been
looking around various forums...I saw this:- (quote)get the transmission fluid and filter changed as it is advisable as the item is sealed for life. Even MB are now recommending 100k fluid changes. elsewhere on this forum 60 to 70k is a good time to get this done. It does not cost the earth to have done (£100 to £200 depending on who does it) and as an added bonus to the life extension for the transmission, driving the car is noticeably smoother, faster and probably a bit more economical.(quote)

Is this fact? Are MB/DC now recommending this?

Splitpin
 
Have now done some more reading/research, which I find very interesting:-

(quote)Here is an interesting article from an American MB website............



Filled for life?
The 722.6 Automatic Transmission uses a special oil and is said to be filled for life. The oil can only be purchased through the Mercedes-Benz dealer using part number 001-989-21-03-10. A 722.6 holds about 9.3 liters and the fluid is sold by the liter. Checking the fluid is accomplished by breaking off the red locking seal located at the dip stick. the lock is replaced after the oil is checked. Use part number 140-991-00-55 for a new lock. There is no dip stick to check the ATF. You need a special tool to check the fluid on all 722.6 transmissions, part number 140-589-15-21-00. The oil level is a critical factor in transmission shifting. See Service Information 27A95105 for details. When you refill, or check thetransmission fluid level make sure that you check the level with the special tool and at the correct temperature. The latest information from Germany is that we should fill the oil to the MAX line. Not overfilled, just maxed out. This is said to improve shift quality. At normal level it is possible for the oil to form air bubbles. The increased level helps to minimize this. You might want to remember to try this on customer complaints involving shift quality before you replace any component. Along with setting the adaptation you would be surprised to see how much of an improvement you will see.

The Automatic Transmission fluid is said to be filled for life. We never specified who's life. (Yes, they actually wrote that in this!-DG) The transmission control module contains a program that keeps a running count of the "calculated" cndition of the ATF oil. (Note from Gilly-I believe this was deleted from the modules right around 2001-2002, not there anymore-DG) The factors that affect the oil are time and temperature. The counter is incremented with engine running time and incremented greater with higher ATF temperatures. The Hand-Held Tester (now SDS-DG) displays a numerical value that represents the value of the calculation. At some given point in time Germany will tell us (still waiting, evidently-DG) which number means its time to change the oil. For now there is no service interval for the ATF oil. If you replace a transmission you should re-set the counter back to zero to account for the new oil. If you are doing internal work and you are replacing the oil you should also re-set the counter. It is acceptable to drain the oil out into a clean container and reuse it, provided it was collected using the MB filter funnel. Remember to flush the converter and kines before installing the new transmission. You should also replace the converter if the transmission was HEAVILY contaminated with metal. Make sure you return the converter with the transmission to warranty. Fine metal particles in the bottom of the pan are allowed. (I think what they mean here is that fine metal particles are considered an "acceptable" condition, do NOT replace transmission, as you will see if you read onG)

The Color of Money:

We have been conditioned to judge the quality of the transmission fluid based solely on it's color and smell. We have no way of judging the frictional quality. The rules have changed. (didn't Iaccoca say that too?-DG) The bright red color that we are all used to seeing may not be what you see when you look at the ATF in a 722.6. The reasons that the oil looks differently are as follows:

1) The oil may appear dark red due to the graphite material that the friction discs contain. This does not change the characteristics of the oil. Do not change the oil or transmission if the oil appears dark red or even if it has a yellowish tint to it. The color will change with time and temperature. As of 10/97, the manufacturer of the oil has agreed to put more red particles in the oil.

2) If a copper color is seen in the oil pan the bushings of the front or rear planetary gear set may be in the process of wearing out. Inspect the bushings and if they are defective replace the complete transmission. If they are not defective, then the transmission is repairable.

3) If a silver color is present in the oil it may be a clutch and steels moving up and down on the hub as they are being applied. This is normal! Use your best judgement here. If the particles are fine they should not cause problems as they will be trapped in the filter. The fluid could be drained, including the torque converter, and the lines flushed and the valve body should be disassembled and cleaned, replace the filter of course. This usually takes care of the problem. If you take the time to inspect and clean each slide valve for ease of movement and base position you will have a better valve body than a new one from spare parts. In more severe cases where the particles are large, then something is in the process of self destruction and the transmission should be either replaced or repaired. Don't forget to check the electrical solenoid valves. Shine a light through the top of it and see if it "leaks". If you drop the transmission oil pan (I think they mean "remove the pan"-DG) and you find yourself feeling like a miner panning for silver, or knee deep in a graphite colored mud, then it's time for a new transmission. You may have noticed that the new pans are painted black on the inside. The metal particles show up better against a black background as opposed to the previous unpainted silver pan. You must get used to seeing some metal in the bottom of the the pan, with this transmission this is normal.

4) Smell the oil. You know by now what burnt oil smells like. If it looks burnt, and it smells burnt, then its burnt.

Example: Try looking at the adaptation values for K3. If the numbers are high, then you have a K3 problem. If the customer is complaining about shift quality going in and out of third gear, repair K3.

5) Make sure you understand the complaint before you disassemble the transmission. Use the HHT (SDS now-DG) adaptation screen values along with the shift application chart to see which shift members are applied during your customer complaint so you will know where to concentrate your efforts when you disassemble. Remember to disassemble the transmission like a surgeon, you need to observe the condition of seals, rings, c-clips and shims as well as being aware of the potential for missing parts.

Repair or Replace:

Use the transmission oil pan as an indicator when deciding to repair or replace the 722.6 transmission.

The following pictures (sorry folks, I'm transcribing the written part only, no pictures-DG) are for reference as to which transmissions should be replaced and which should be repaired.

(picture shows a black pan with some small "dots" here and there-DG) This is a normal oil pan for a 722.6. The fine particles are normal. Do not replace this transmission.

(can't tell what's "wrong" with this picture-DG) The brass colored particles may be a sign of a bushing problem. This transmission may be repaired.

(can't tell by the next picture either what the problem is supposed to be, rotten copies!-DG) The metallic sludge indicates that there is a major mechanical problem. This transmission would probably cost more to repair than to replace.

(This picture you can see obvious copious amounts of metal shavings, a pretty good coating of it-DG) This picture also indicates internal damage has been done. This transmission would be replaced (as well as the TC and flushing lines and cooler, etc-DG).(quote)

This was taken from www.mercedesshop.com & is worth reading.

I am beginning to change my mind :eek:

Splitpin
 
Interesting to hear the comment about the deleted torque converter drain plug on later models.

I've spent many happy hours under my 2001 210 looking for the drain bolt and couldnt find it anywhere.

Any alternative suggestions how a DIY'er can get the oil out of the torque converter.
 
Interesting to hear the comment about the deleted torque converter drain plug on later models.

I've spent many happy hours under my 2001 210 looking for the drain bolt and couldnt find it anywhere.

Any alternative suggestions how a DIY'er can get the oil out of the torque converter.

Use the suction neck from the old filter, cut it of and attach a short length of hose, scrupulously clean obviously, with end of the hose in the suction port and the other in a container of the new fluid of the volume you what to flush and pan still removed, run the engine shifting through the box, once you have run low/out of fluid your done.
Using you common sense here people, stands, chocks...
Just an idea, t'is your gearbox.
:rock:
 
Use the suction neck from the old filter, cut it of and attach a short length of hose, scrupulously clean obviously, with end of the hose in the suction port and the other in a container of the new fluid of the volume you what to flush and pan still removed, run the engine shifting through the box, once you have run low/out of fluid your done.
Using you common sense here people, stands, chocks...
Just an idea, t'is your gearbox.
:rock:

I don't think he expected to wait 9 years for his hoped for comment :doh:
 
I don't think he expected to wait 9 years for his hoped for comment :doh:

I'd love to know how an ancient thread gets seen.

To be fair, it's a good tip as long as you have a large catch can as the fluid will be pouring out of the gearbox all over with the sump removed.
 
Interesting. Would that mean that while doing the ATF change the change of the filter is not necessary?
 
Interesting. Would that mean that while doing the ATF change the change of the filter is not necessary?

Would what meant that?

The filter needs changing.
 
Cheers DM.
From the first post he stated that the filter isn't about the oil but the metal particles then this is why?
 
I remember in the olden days common wisdom said that while in principle fibre filters can we washed and reused, it is false economy to do so - once you are already there, just change the thing....
 
^^Why wouldn't you just change it if you are replacing the fluid which costs a lot more? It takes a couple of seconds to fit once you have the pan off.

On a related note with people mentioning the torque converter draining. I used the method mentioned here in this excellent write up.
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/88418-how-change-automatic-gerbox-oil-flush-722-6-box.html

The only problem I had was finding/fabricating the banjo bolt hose fitting he uses. Then I found this M12 double banjo bolt with hose adaptor on ebay.

DOUBLE BANJO BOLT M12 x1.5 TWO BANJOS 10MM TAIL SPOUT PLATED STEEL, OIL FUEL | eBay

You just need to take the cooling line off at the drain pan connection swap the original banjo bolt with the double bolt with a hose tail attached to one of the outlets. Then just screw this back into the bell housing with the cooler line and a hose attached. Then you can drain the torque converter as outlined (took a couple of minutes).
 
I have also did a gearbox service, with new oil filter and pilot bush, the oil was black and smelt a bit burned. The reason i did the change was because after changing pilot bush i could see the quality of the oil. The driving dynamics were quite good with smooth changes, under light and heavy accelerations, so i can 't say i noticed a big difference afterwards. I used mobil1. Cheers.
 
I have also did a gearbox service, with new oil filter and pilot bush, the oil was black and smelt a bit burned. The reason i did the change was because after changing pilot bush i could see the quality of the oil. The driving dynamics were quite good with smooth changes, under light and heavy accelerations, so i can 't say i noticed a big difference afterwards. I used mobil1. Cheers.

You used Mobil1 for the ATF?
 

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