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What to look for when buying used touring caravan

MercedesDriver

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As we were camping in last few years made me think of going on a caravan route, but I absolutely have no idea of what to look for. To me all caravans look the same as a house on wheels and I can only judge them by the interior but what to look for. Which mechanical parts must be in a perfect nick? What to avoid and what is highly recommended? Annual maintenance costs involved (service, storing...)?
There is 4 of us plus a dog, so I suppose 4-6 berth is the a good size for us with 4 beds, a kitchen, a toilet with a shower. But which one and not to break the bank???
 
I’m looking at exactly the same think although not too seriously just yet. First thing I did is work out what 85% if your maximum allowable tow weight is as that’s the recommended weight, especially for beginners and then look for vans of said weight.
Will follow this with interest [emoji1360]
 
I’m a vanner and pull 2007 Coachman 520/4. Over the years we’ve looked at hundreds of other vans but I doubt if I will change.

Anyway your question. First decide on what layout suit your needs best, remember with 4 you may want that bit of privacy so a rear end washroom would be ideal.

Now set your budget and start looking but don’t forget those private sales etc as I’ve seen some horrors sitting for sale in Dealers yards.

Purchase a simple damp meter tester, you can get these for around £20 and don’t be too shy to test the inside of vans you’re looking at for dampness. Look for general things like how.clean is the oven for example. This can sometimes tell you how well it’s been looked after.
Check the condition and age, especially age of the tyres. This is stamped on each tyre.
Then check of the van comes with any of thos bits and pieces that add up like Aquaroll (water carrier) Wastemaster ( waste water carrier )
Finally I would check if van has been regularly serviced.

The tyres and the flexible gas lines, the ones you connect onto the bottle are things that seem to forget people’s attention.

So go for it and good luck, it can be a bit of a minefield out there but I do like my Coachman
 
MercedesDriver . Damp is the main killer in caravans .Sold hundreds of them, cleaned them inside, and out.The joints on the roof move as you tow the caravan, so every year they want re sealing.Most owners dont bother and swap it in for this years model . Pull all the seating out and check in areas at the back of the beds .Another place for damp to show up is in the back of cupboards .People to-day want the fixed bed so you dont need to keep making it up every time you come back to the van, after a drink or a meal. You just want to drop in to that bed. May be a 4 birth with island bed i was talking about would be best. Remember the more beds the bigger the caravan ..See if you can pick one up thats got a mover on the axle .You can move the caravan in to the spot with the remote control like the one you use to change channels on your tv . Good thing is if you have room to keep it at home . If not then thats another expense paying to store it , and pay the pitch fees when your on holiday site. Idea for most is to site it down the cost and visit it every week end , Then move off for a holiday in the main breaks . The weight of the van must not exceed the car weight . The dealers will tell you that if you dont know what it is . Check splits in the tyres .They get left in the sun and they crack over time .If you can get 3 years out of a set of tyres your lucky . Four wheel caravans tow better than two and are more stable in the wind .Make sure it as the stabiliser on the draw bar coupling ,this stops a lot of swaying as other vehicles pass you by at faster speed . Also caravans do come in 2 classes one lightweight with just the
essential in them to sleep and eat .And others with every thing like you have at home .Then the more extras in the van the heavier it will be .. Another thing just came to my mind . A heavily used van will show floor problems .Some vans are worse than other in this respect .
 
The cost of a caravan will pay for many nights in a hotel. You also won't have to stay in a caravan, and other road users won't hate you. A win-win situation, I think.

Cheers,

Gaz
 
We have had most camping experiences tent, folding caravan, trailer tent and finally settled on a caravan last year.
We looked at quite a few before getting this one so many with damp it was unreal. The main layouts include fixed bed usually at the back, kitchen/bathroom at the back or to one side.
Think about where you are using it on sites or wild camping. Will you really use use the shower?
Older vans might not have an oven.
Rubber gas hose is an easy change but will show if van is looked after properly.
Leasure batteries are useful
Awnings with 4+dog is a benefit
Gas bottles
Power cable longer the better
Water/waste containers plus pipes plus extras if you go to a serviced pitch
Check heating, fridge, cooker, hob, taps if possible
Check you get all the keys we didn't get the one for the toilet that was a fun weekend.
If you can get or fit a motor mover these are really useful
Tyres, lights, brakes, grey power plug
Extra wide wing mirrors
Hitch weight guide
An attachment for your cordless drill to use raise/lower the legs

If your ok with a screwdriver you can fix most things.
But fit a new co and smoke detector to what ever van you get.
 
Just by looking on AT I’ve figured out that I want the one with end washroom, bunk bed and one double bed. I’ve found out that E250 CDI BF estate has towing weight of 2100kg so most of vans could be towed. We usualy make 4000 miles per Summer so mechanicaly good caravan is a must.
Didn’t know that double axle tows better, so this I have to add on my list as well as mover on the axle.
Thanks for the advise where to look for dump with “dump meter”, hoses, tyres, hidden places and the draw bar stabiliser but how to tell if it’s there or not? I couldn’t manage to find a photo of this stabiliser to know what it looks like.
 
We tow a large twin axle caravan. As others have said, the main problem is damp. You really need to check thoroughly as it costs a fortune to fix! The dealers and service guys use a Protimeter damp meter, as they are accurate and consistent. Fixed bed caravans are fine but the bed is always there looking at you and takes up loads of potential lounging/dining space. Virtually all modern caravans have a hitch stabiliser, which looks like a handle that folds back over the hitch - usually red sometimes black. More recent 'vans may have Alko Trailer Control,, which is very good, being an electronic brake activating stabiliser. Tyres don't wear out but the Caravan Club advice is replace them at 5 years old and never use tyres after 7 years whatever their condition. If you go for a twin axle 'van a four wheel motor mover is best - a twin axle takes a lot of turning having no steering! The Caravan Club recommendation for towing is that the caravan is no heavier than 85% of the Kerb Weight of the tow car - not the max. tow weight. This is so the caravan doesn't take control downhill etc. Pulling it is one thing, controlling it and stopping it is another. Buying from a dealer with a good reputation is a good plan as they should give you a warranty. Service sheets include a damp test report, so check for these, and the habitation (CO, gas etc) checks, but a caravan can start leaking anytime. Bailey Alutech caravans are made without wood, so if they leak they won't usually rot - but the fit and finish is not usually as good as Coachman, Swift or Lunar, the other main UK brands. They ALL leak! Finding and fixing a leak quickly will stop a problem. You can't smell a damp problem as the construction (waterproof aluminium skin outside, wooden frame with polystyrene insulation covered by thin plywood with a waterproof vinyl covering inside) traps the water and smell, just rotting away gently 24/7! Alde heating is the best! Most have blown air heating which can be patchy and is prone to cold areas.

Brilliant fun though! This site is a mine of info;
UKCampsite.co.uk Camping Forums, Motorhome Forums, and Caravanning Forums
 
In a nut shell I would say:

Costs - servicing is simple if you are mechanically minded, although anything that is less than 10 years old will have sealed brakes and hubs which are essentially maintenance free and can only be repaired by new parts which are dealer fit only. An annual damp check is always useful and if you find you do have damp the sooner it is repaired the better. Tyre health is vital. If you use your van every few weeks OK, but if it sits on its tyres for 50 weeks a year then they are likely to go bang! My advice is if this will be you jack the van up and put on axle stands or similar. If you buy a van the tyre production date will be stamped on it (eg 0115 means week 1 of 2015), budget on a set of new tyres and change every 6 years (regardless of wear) as they will be subject to UV de lamination/cracking. Towbar will cost range alot. Simple fixed to detachable (internet research time) and then whether you can fit it yourself (saves loads of money) or you need a fitter (independents always cheaper and likely more knowledgeable than main dealers as they do it all the time). In this day and age don't both with anything other than dedicated wiring kits - they are often plug and play (although Mercs generally require STAR coding to enable) and the extra cost is recouped by the fact they can often be fitted in minutes.

Double/Single axle - we have just sold our double axle (Hobby Prestige 650 kfu 1900kg) and replaced it with a single axle (Hobby Premium 560 UL 1800kg). Our 650 was towed by an ML320cdi (164) back in the day and it din't even register as being on the back! Our current Landrover Discovery Sport is an absolute dream towcar (I hope but expect) my new E Estate (213) to be as good) and was never troubled by the 650 BUT...having just towed 1200 miles to Cornwall and back the new (single axle) 560 seemed more stable. As a C+E qualified person I have no issues reversing, but remember than a double axle (unless fitted with a mover) does not give you the option to turn by hand but when manoeuvring with the car responds a bit more slowly so can make manoeuvring a bit easier.

Licence Requirements - Minefield based on age/when you got your driving licence. If you intend to tow with your E Class and any decent sized 4/6 berth van then you will more than likely need B+E entitlement (internet is your friend here) and if you have never towed worth considering a manoeuvring course. It is not a black art (contrary to what people say) but a bit like parallel parking; some can and some can't (who then tell the rest of the world how difficult it is) :eek:

Storage - you may have restrictions on whether you can store the caravan at your house imposed by local council bylaws; check your house deeds!

Type - Work out what you want it for - odd weekend, three weeks at a time touring, every other weekend at an off grid site etc. Are you touring in UK or mainland Europe? Also think about is it just you or will you be taking children or grand children and what do they need/not need, From this you can then work our what are your red lines. For us this means not making up a bed every night (so we have fixed beds), being warm (so under floor heating) and still enjoying our tv (so built in satellite system). BUT each to their own.

Weights - There is much written about weights. In the UK there is the 85% rule, most of Europe goes with 100% (i.e your fully laden van should not weigh more than your car empty or max towing weight for your car whichever is lower). There are untold repositories of info online. UK built vans are about 25% lighter than German brand vans as generally they are narrower. Many guides out there about loading, but nose weight is also important. Somewhere between 5 to 7% of the laden weight of the van - this will then influence your towcar choice as you can't exceed the specified limit. I think the E Class is 85kg, my current Disco Sport is 150kg (but my caravan is 100kg). Not difficult but needs thinking about (some of the new Vauxhall Insignia's are only 45kg!!)

Do you have any friends/colleagues who have a caravan you can borrow or book a site near to you where you can rent a caravan for a week and see if its for you. Many people I know buy a cheap starter van, see if its for them and then if it is move on and upgrade based on what they have learnt. When I started caravanning it was based on many happy years as a child in a caravan. My wife had never done it before so needed to get a feel for what was right for her. Our view is that we want a bit of luxury so we now have a luxurious van for our needs (sat tv system, underfloor heating, aircon etc) but I get many are happier with a more simple existence so please don't judge. If and when you do take the plunge then I am sure that most caravanner's on your first outing will be more than willing to offer advice and/or assistance. At least there is likely a YouTube video for everything you were afraid/embarrassed to ask (from how do I attach it to the towbar, to how to empty the loo or make a bunk bed;)).

It has been mentioned already but a caravan does buy a lot of nights in a hotel, it also means that if you sell it in a couple of years time you get a lot of money back (we have just bought a new caravan and have lost under €7000 in 12 years but probably had in total about one years worth of camping and visited about 15 countries around Europe).
 
Just by looking on AT I’ve figured out that I want the one with end washroom, bunk bed and one double bed. I’ve found out that E250 CDI BF estate has towing weight of 2100kg so most of vans could be towed. We usualy make 4000 miles per Summer so mechanicaly good caravan is a must.
Didn’t know that double axle tows better, so this I have to add on my list as well as mover on the axle.
Thanks for the advise where to look for dump with “dump meter”, hoses, tyres, hidden places and the draw bar stabiliser but how to tell if it’s there or not? I couldn’t manage to find a photo of this stabiliser to know what it looks like.
Most Merc estates will list a trailer weight of 2100 Kg in the handbook , but if this exceeds the Kerbweight of the car , it isn’t legal in the UK .
My previous W124 estates listed 2100 as max trailer weight , but the cars only weighed something like 1600 Kg , so that was the max you could legally tow .

If the trailer is heavier than the towcar then the tail could wag the dog .

Re various other comments, if your compliment of four includes young kids , then a rear bedroom which can be closed off can be a useful thing as they can be packed off to bed while you sit up . If caravanning somewhere warmer , you can put on an awning while kids sleep inside .

When viewing a van , walk all over the floor and feel for any spongy or springy bits - delamination can be a problem that is costly to fix .

If viewing a private sale see if the van is CRIS registered - this will give you assurance it isn’t stolen or on finance .
 
Re various other comments, if your compliment of four includes young kids , then a rear bedroom which can be closed off can be a useful thing as they can be packed off to bed while you sit up . If caravanning somewhere warmer , you can put on an awning while kids sleep inside .

When viewing a van , walk all over the floor and feel for any spongy or springy bits - delamination can be a problem that is costly to fix .

Great point. Our 650 had fixed bunk beds across the back behind a wooden door, which also doubled as a great place to store chairs and stuff if we didn't have the awning (only 1 child and he wanted to sleep on the top bunk). We don't have that now so have to put stuff in the back of the car in the same situation. Not a problem as we had thought about that but just the sort of thing you need to think about in terms of how you will actually use the van (or find out about when you do) and why most always have a starter van and then upgrade due to size or space issues!:thumb:

The checked and the site we were on in Cornwall rents a 4bth tourer for £325 to £395 per week (I think its 4 year old Eldiss). Anyway this is the sort of thing I would recommend as it will probably either be a holiday from hell or confirm the life on the open road with an aluminium box is just for you (and if it is then you won't get either rail-roaded into the wrong product at a dealers and/or you will know what he is talking about when he is explaining options)
 
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This is what we collected just under a month ago - reckon attached to the E Class estate it won't be too shabby!! Few raised eyebrows and much interest on the campsite in Cornwall - the word spaceship was used a couple of times
 

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Final piece of wider advice prompted by Onefortheroad's AVATAR was that some cars are not homologated for towing! The original bananna CLS (even though it was based on the e-class which was) and the current Jag XJ (I was going to buy one when they were new to market until I found this out) are two examples that spring to mind! This also applies to certain cars with the range - one look at the Skoda Kodiaq pricelist clearly says that some engine/drive trains combo's are not approved for towing (very wierd).

There are now some specialist companies that will build towars for these vehicles, but their use would likely invalidate your insurance.
 
Great point. Our 650 had fixed bunk beds across the back behind a wooden door, which also doubled as a great place to store chairs and stuff if we didn't have the awning (only 1 child and he wanted to sleep on the top bunk). We don't have that now so have to put stuff in the back of the car in the same situation. Not a problem as we had thought about that but just the sort of thing you need to think about in terms of how you will actually use the van (or find out about when you do) and why most always have a starter van and then upgrade due to size or space issues!:thumb:

The checked and the site we were on in Cornwall rents a 4bth tourer for £325 to £395 per week (I think its 4 year old Eldiss). Anyway this is the sort of thing I would recommend as it will probably either be a holiday from hell or confirm the life on the open road with an aluminium box is just for you (and if it is then you won't get either rail-roaded into the wrong product at a dealers and/or you will know what he is talking about when he is explaining options)
I was relatively lucky in that my parents caravanned and I grew up with it , and got my driving licence while they still had their last van , so I started towing at 17 ( you could back then ) with a W115 and a Thomson Gleneagle .

When my daughter was of the right age , I got an Abbey GT418T and towed it firstly with my W123 280TE , then my W124 300TE . Once Gill and my sisters kids got into their teens and caravan holidays were no longer cool , I sold the van .

I sometimes toy with getting another , but instead of another large van it would be something small like an Eriba Touring which I could pull with the 190 or the SL , and keep up the drive to double as accommodation for visitors . A ‘left hand drive’ van with the door on the right would also be good from that point of view .
 
Are you allowed to tow with an SL :confused:
Towbar was a factory option ( Oris detachable bar - it’s in the EPC , and I’ve bought a C124 Oris detachable bar since the R129 chassis is based on the C124 ) , also lots of aftermarket suppliers sell towbars for R129s .

The brochure for the R107 has a full page picture of one towing a huge speedboat .

SLs are plenty heavy enough and powerful enough to make great towcars .
 

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