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whining when 1st accelerating from cold (W124)

SilverSaloon

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
7,758
Car
1994 W124 E300D Estate, 1985 R107 280SL
hi

i've started to notice over the last couple of days that my estate has started to whine a little the 1st time you accelerate from starting, when cold.

it only does it once and doesnt do it again until the car has been sitting again.

Should I be concerned and any idea what it could be?

thanks

Derek
 
Is the whine from the front or the rear of the car?
 
Is the whine from the front or the rear of the car?

the rear. maybe the diff? it does go away.... i've never checked the diff oil and there is no history of it being done in my reciepts etc
 
I recently had my diff oil changed for not much money, so it might be wise to change it anyway as there's little to lose.

My only personal experience with changing diff oil is in my wife's Smart car. It's dead easy. Open the fill plug, open the drain plug, empty, close drain plug, fill until overlfows ~1.5L, close fill plug, job done :) Obviously wait for someone to confirm what the W124 requires.
 
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I think you've already guessed where i was coming from Derek. Get that oil checked (or changed if you can find no record of it). Given the mileage I think your diesel has done (150K+ ??) it would not be a surprise if it did start to make a few noises.
 
Well worth changing the diff oil /

The ASD diff on my 300TE packed in at a little over 200K ; a new diff was going to be over a grand for the part alone as an exchange unit - more than the car was worth .

My pal James is currently breaking an E200T which the owner put off the road because , you've guessed it , the diff packed in .

There was a story in the Gazette a year or two back about a very high mileage deisel 124 and the only major component to have been replaced was the diff .

I think I can see a pattern here .
 
its at 196k :rock:

i'll take a look at the diff oil - i've read some posts on here in the past regarding making sure the top filler end can be removed before you undo the drain end...... ;)

i'll do a search.

EDIT - cant find any sort of "how to" on the 124? can anyone who knows give a quick guide to whats involved? it sounds quite a simple job?

cheers

derek
 
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The one time I looked at mine , after it had packed in , there was a level/fill plug on the passenger side of the diff , slightly forward and above the driveshaft flange , can't remember where the drain plug was .

You need the car raised but sitting level - on a hoist or 4 ramps !

It should just be a matter of cleaning around the plugs with a wire brush or similar so no dirt enters the diff . Having enough of the correct oil to hand .

Open the level plug first , then the drain plug and drain off the old , thick , smelly oil out . Replace drain plug then fill to level plug and replace . Take car for short run then open level plug and see if it will take any more oil .
 
thanks for that - big help. I can get the car on axle stands all round i guess.

so you just fill it to the brim? ie when it wont take any more???? never changed diff oil before.
 
so you just fill it to the brim? ie when it wont take any more???? never changed diff oil before.

yes; too much just dribbles back out the fill hole so its hard to do wrong!
 
Pop past sometime and get the special spanner I've got for the job. Plugs are ferociously tight. Warm the oil before it goes in, it's sticky stuff. (and it stinks:eek: ) Car needs to be level as well as up otherwise you get a false level.

Hypoid 85W 90 unless your car has LSD.
 
Pop past sometime and get the special spanner I've got for the job. Plugs are ferociously tight. Warm the oil before it goes in, it's sticky stuff. (and it stinks:eek: ) Car needs to be level as well as up otherwise you get a false level.

Hypoid 85W 90 unless your car has LSD.

thanks Derek. How do i know if it has LSD? its a E300D estate 1994..... i dont think it will have... :confused:
 
I don't THINK an actual LSD was an option on the 124 . Some models had ASD , like my 300TE , but you would have a warning triangle in the middle of your speedo then .

Put your VIN number into the russian VIN checker to be sure

http://old.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng
 
Whining at startup? More likely to be an idler on the serpentine belt or the alternator throwing some charge back into the battery

On E300 Diesels the glowplugs stay on for a minute or so after starting so there's quite a load on the alternator right after startup

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
Whining at startup? More likely to be an idler on the serpentine belt or the alternator throwing some charge back into the battery

On E300 Diesels the glowplugs stay on for a minute or so after starting so there's quite a load on the alternator right after startup

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

Agree much more likely to be something alternator or serpentine belt related if it only happens on first start up - the noise may be being transmitted through the drive train making it sound like its coming from the back. Is the battery in good shape - it may be a sign that is on its way and the alternators working overtime - or has the alternator or brush pack been changed? A diff whine or wheel bearing is going to be there all the time.
How about next cold start leave the car on the drive, start the engine and then rev it a bit on the drive and see if you can hear the noise.

Having said all that still a good idea to change the diff oil if it has not been done before - I realised mine had never been done when it got to 180k and a rear wheel bearing failed - which I thought was the diff - so it stirred me into action to change the oil.
 
Only other thing I would add about a diff oil change is take a rough measure by catching what comes out- will give an indication of how oil tight the unit is and examining the oil may also give an indication of wear. When refilling you fill to the level plug as has been said but as a second check its a good idea to get a measure the volume of fluid you put in. Because access is tight a squeezable type bottle or big syringe ( some folks have used an clean empty silicon sealer cartridge ) with a flexible filler tube is a good idea
 
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Only other thing I would add about a diff oil change is take a rough measure by catching what comes out- will give an indication of how oil tight the unit is and examining the oil may also give an indication of wear. When refilling you fill to the level plug as has been said but as a second check its a good idea to get a measure the volume of fluid you put in. Because access is tight a squeezable type bottle or big syringe ( some folks have used an clean empty silicon sealer cartridge ) with a flexible filler tube is a good idea

Good advice - you can also use a std oil can - the sort that you might use to oil a bicycle - the pump up ones with a flexible spout. Takes a bit longer but quite effective as the volume is relatively small.
 
thanks everyone for the advice.

i'm going to look at changing the diff oil anyway, but will also do the driveway test aswell.....

battery and glowplugs appear to be good and acting normal
 

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