1991 w124 200E distributor

[Big White 'Benz]

I have a 1991 J reg 200E which to my dismay broke down recently!
I had the RAC look at the vehicle and after adjusting the ignition timing(which hadnt been previously tampered with) the car started,and i drove it,without fault the 2 miles back home,2 hours later,i tried to start the car again but alas the same problem occured,the car is fuelling correctly and has a strong spark,but will not 'fire'.
Any ideas as iam at my absolute wits end!
Iam yet to try replacing the rotor arm but nor sure if that will work,please help!

 

[grober]

OVP and FUEL PUMP RELAYS are a good first port of call. Otherwise you may have a problem with the EZL IGNITION UNIT overheating because the heat sink compound between it and the wing has dried out? Checking the distributer cap and rotor arm is a good idea also- some rotor arms can short to earth via their drive shaft.

 

[Big White 'Benz]

Confused!!

OVP and FUEL PUMP RELAYS are a good first port of call. Otherwise you may have a problem with the EZL IGNITION UNIT overheating because the heat sink compound between it and the wing has dried out? Checking the distributer cap and rotor arm is a good idea also- some rotor arms can short to earth via their drive shaft.

Where would the OVP and fuel pump relays be situated on the vehicle?
Also how would i check the heat sink compound? Many thanks.

 

[grober]

the ovp and fuel pump relays are behind the battery covered by a removable black plastic shield. You can't "check" the heatsink compound which is a whitepaste under the EZL unit bolted to the offside inner wing. You can remove the unit- clean off its underside and its mounting position on the wing ( can rust sometimes) reapply a thin layer of heatsink compound and bolt it back on. It may not be the ignition unit anyway and if it is then its probably on its way out anyway and would be best replaced. You need to isolate the fault first before replacing any components.

 

[Big White 'Benz]

the ovp and fuel pump relays are behind the battery covered by a removable black plastic shield. You can't "check" the heatsink compound which is a whitepaste under the EZL unit bolted to the offside inner wing. You can remove the unit- clean off its underside and its mounting position on the wing ( can rust sometimes) reapply a thin layer of heatsink compound and bolt it back on. It may not be the ignition unit anyway and if it is then its probably on its way out anyway and would be best replaced. You need to isolate the fault first before replacing any components.

Hi Graeme.
I replaced the rotor arm on the car today,has helped it to 'fire up' better than it was,but still wont tick over without holding the throttle down,i removed the EZL unit and on inspection the heat sink compound on one corner of the unit appeared to be water stained,is there any chance i could remove the old compound,clean the unit,reapply new compound and it will work?
Or is it more likely that if there is water ingress on the compound that the unit is knackered?
Cheers,Wayne.

 

[grober]

Water staining may just indicate that----staining nothing more. Since renewing the heat sink compound won't cost much its worth doing as a precaution. It's unlikely to "repair" an already heat damaged unit. It's unlikely( but not impossible) any water has penetrated the unit. The only reliable test is to exchange it with one you know works. If the problem disappears then you know it's the cause. Remember the problem may lie elsewhere.

 

[Big White 'Benz]

Water staining may just indicate that----staining nothing more. Since renewing the heat sink compound won't cost much its worth doing as a precaution. It's unlikely to "repair" an already heat damaged unit. It's unlikely( but not impossible) any water has penetrated the unit. The only reliable test is to exchange it with one you know works. If the problem disappears then you know it's the cause. Remember the problem may lie elsewhere.

Hi Graeme
It appears that the EZL unit on my car is knackered,the part no. is: 008 545 92 32.
I was wondering if you could tell me what other EZL's would be compatible with my car,do i have to match the part number exactly or are there any other variations i can use?
Cheers,Wayne

 

[grober]

Its listed at £536-15 plus VAT at Inchcape. http://www.mercedes-benz-parts.co.uk/ so if you go for a new one be sure that's your problem.

Any 2 litre injection/carburettor ( delete as appropriate) engined car of that vintage would be appropriate. That's probably going to be a W201 -190/190E model or a saloon/estate w124 like yours. A W124 230 single cam engined car might also be OK at a push as a donor car also but not sure if they share the same ignition advance curve. Unfortunately due to the rarity of these units now they tend to have been scavenged from lots of breakers yards ,but you never know your luck?

 

[neilrr]

I have a few from 190E 2.0 & 2.6 models (M102 & M103 engined cars.)

I'll check to see if I have that particular part number on Monday if you like.

 

[neilrr]

I've got one with the same part number, it came from a K reg 190E 2.0.

PM or post on here if you still need one.

 

[Big White 'Benz]

I've got one with the same part number, it came from a K reg 190E 2.0.

PM or post on here if you still need one.

Hi Neil,how much for the part and how much to post to dorset,kind regards,Wayne.

 

[neilrr]

BWB,

Post a phone number or email addy after around 9 tonight & I'll get in touch.

 

[Big White 'Benz]

BWB,

Post a phone number or email addy after around 9 tonight & I'll get in touch.

email me please:

[email protected]

Cheers,Wayne.

 

[neilrr]

Wayne,

Sent an email the other day. You should remove your email address in case the spam bots get it.

 

[neilrr]

BWB,

Did you get one?