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2 injector clamp bolts snapped in hole, 2010 Mercedes E350 3.0 V6 . What should I try ?

Yes-but what about the uninitiated?
 
OP, I'm not sure 8nm on a bolt that size would get it tight enough to hold. I'd use a little locking compound as well.
 
Car still not fixed !!

So as I previously stated he didn't drill out the entire 2 bolts but drilled them a little bit probably half or less of the snapped bolts are still in the hole then he tapped a new wider thread to where he drilled and then used wider oversized bolts on top of the snapped pieces.
They tightened down when torqued to the specified 8nm and one was still a bit loose after 8 nm so had to use a ratchet and get several more turns on it until it went tight.

Now as I'm trying to start the car it isn't starting atm because Apparently it's airlock but when turning it over it's chuffing which my mechanic mate said is an injector leaking.

Why would it still be leaking, it's been torqued down to the specified interval and is in tight.

Tia
 
OP, I'm not sure 8nm on a bolt that size would get it tight enough to hold. I'd use a little locking compound as well.

Should we increase the 8nm to a higher torque setting for these bolts ? Thanks
 
If you fit bigger bolts you need to modify the clamps to allow them to pivot properly or they wont tighten down correctly no matter how tight the bolts are. I has this issue when I fitted bigger bolts on my CRD270 engined Jeep Grand Cherokee. I take it they cleaned out the holes properly and fitted new copper washers.
 
Car still not fixed !!

So as I previously stated he didn't drill out the entire 2 bolts but drilled them a little bit probably half or less of the snapped bolts are still in the hole then he tapped a new wider thread to where he drilled and then used wider oversized bolts on top of the snapped pieces.
They tightened down when torqued to the specified 8nm and one was still a bit loose after 8 nm so had to use a ratchet and get several more turns on it until it went tight.

Now as I'm trying to start the car it isn't starting atm because Apparently it's airlock but when turning it over it's chuffing which my mechanic mate said is an injector leaking.

Why would it still be leaking, it's been torqued down to the specified interval and is in tight.

Tia
The torque setting was for the original bolt.

The replacement is completly wrong being wider and shorter. It's clamping force will not be applied correctly at 8nm

You really need to go to a specialist machine shop and see if they can rescue the botch up. Worst case you might need a new cylinder head.
 
Has he drilled deep enough ? or are your new shorter 'fatter' bolts (there is a joke in their somewhere) bottoming out in the new holes ? If bottomed out more Nm will have you back to square one with a snapped bolt.

On a 6 x 1.5mm bolt you can go up to 10.25Nm if it is an 8.8 bolt or 14.4Nm if it's a10.9 or all the ay up to 17.2 Nm if its a 12.9 bolt .

Feeling brave ?
 
Car still not fixed !!

They tightened down when torqued to the specified 8nm and one was still a bit loose after 8 nm so had to use a ratchet and get several more turns on it until it went tight.

Tia

The bolts that were fitted have possibly bottomed out onto the half removed originals , hence them not tightening onto the clamp properly.

As has been stated a few times and before you or your mate destroy the head or worse the engine , get someone who knows what they are doing to have a look at it.

You now have two sheared bolts still in the head , half their holes are now oversized with suspect threads and bolts , clamps are now oversized so at what point is the towel getting thrown in and you make the call ?

K
 
As I said above...if you have not modified the clamps to allow then to tilt around the bigger bolts they will never tighten up, deep enough holes or not. Been there done that!!! After I modded them the big bolts were fine and I never had any further issues with leaking.
 
He altered the bolt and it's fine only thing to do now is bleed air out and then get it started up
 
He altered the bolt and it's fine only thing to do now is bleed air out and then get it started up
I had the same issue 15 years ago, removing a leaking injector the bolt snapped. I paid the Thread Doctor £120 to come out and spend a couple of hours removing the rest and inserting a helicoil. I realised my limitations and regarded it as an investment in knowledge ie, how close the bolt hole was to the water jacket and the need for accuracy. It was a pleasure to watch and chat with him.
 
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I had the same issue 15 years ago, removing a leaking injector the bolt snapped. I paid the Thread Doctor £120 to come out and spend a couple of hours removing the rest and inserting a helicoil. I realised my limitations and regarded it as an investment in knowledge ie, how close the bolt hole was to the water jacket and the need for accuracy. It was a pleasure to watch and chat with him.

Tried tightening down one of the 2 today and the bolt span in threads some of the threads came off from the hole onto the bolt , he's already cut the hole once so really could do without cutting any more off of it.
I tried to find a specialist but there are none whatsoever within 45 miles from me
 
Had a quick wiz through this thread 🤣
It’s always worth trying left handed drills when drilling bolts out as sometimes your lucky and just the drilling can unscrew the bolt and if it grabs it won’t screw it in further.
 

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