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2910 Mercedes e class 3.0 V6 .How long should I expect my engine to last ? It's on 242k miles .

KramEkard

Active Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2023
Messages
71
Location
Lancashire
Car
2010 Mercedes E350 3.0 v6
It has 242,000 on it now and was at 227k when I bought in January of this year
 
The engine itself will easily do 500k + with the correct servicing; whether it gets there or not is more down to your ability to repair or your willingness to pay to have repaired things like oil cooler seals, DPF problems, cam chain, turbo problems, torque converter problems, suspension components etc etc. The engine is not the weakest link. If it hasn't been replaced already then your alternator will need replacing soon ime.
 
What’s the current condition of your engine, clutch, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, tyres, parking sensors, bodywork, seals, airbags, electrics, control systems, infotainment etc.

What MoT issues have you had since the car went over 150k miles?
 
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What’s the current condition of your engine, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, tyres, bodywork, seals, electrics, control systems, etc. What MoT issues have you had since the car went over 150k miles?
The OP bought the car at 227k miles 👍
 
The OP bought the car at 227k miles 👍
And can look up the MoT history online if he doesn’t have copies of the MoT paperwork and advisories.

It’ll tell him if the car has always flown through tests without a second thought, or if the previous owners ran it on a bit of a wing and a prayer. Useful not only for the direct advisories and rectifications but also for the wider context of the whole car maintenance.
 
And can look up the MoT history online if he doesn’t have copies of the MoT paperwork and advisories.

It’ll tell him if the car has always flown through tests without a second thought, or if the previous owners ran it on a bit of a wing and a prayer. Useful not only for the direct advisories and rectifications but also for the wider context of the whole car maintenance.
Yes I am aware of the ability to check MOT history but you asked the OP what issues they may have had with the car since it passed 150k and not all of those issues the previous owner had if any may have been MOT related but checking MOT history is often a very useful indicator.

I have discounted the purchase of several cars based on MOT history often with repeated failures or advisories due to tyre and brake wear.
 
Yes I am aware of the ability to check MOT history but you asked the OP what issues they may have had with the car since it passed 150k and not all of those issues the previous owner had if any may have been MOT related but checking MOT history is often a very useful indicator.

I have discounted the purchase of several cars based on MOT history often with repeated failures or advisories due to tyre and brake wear.
I’m highlighting - along with Smiley, but indirectly - that the main reasons why vehicles get scrapped or sold on are nothing to do with the engine, and everything to do with the cost of maintaining and servicing the rest of the vehicle.
 
I’m highlighting - along with Smiley, but indirectly - that the main reasons why vehicles get scrapped or sold on are nothing to do with the engine, and everything to do with the cost of maintaining and servicing the rest of the vehicle.
Good points and ones which many do not factor into the overall running costs.

There is a sweet spot in running high milage cars where many of the expensive components have been changed but it is always a risk as in any purchase of a used item 👍👍
 
It’s like ourselves we all have a lifespan, some shorter than others.
There are cars in breakers yards with 100000 mls or even less as the expense of the repair was too much. Also many deaths of cars like humans can occur so suddenly without warning , ie snapped camshaft with myself in vw Touareg with 139000 mls. and many other sudden deaths. I m o your question about how long it will last is impossible to answer /we can guess . Truthfully the best you can do is get in up on a ramp and get bodywork checked , get pipes , hoses , bush’s arms etc checked and suspension then decide if it’s worth giving engine and transmission a good service and take it from there. I hope its all good and runs for many yrs for you.
 
It's more about how long until it's uneconomical to repair, and only you can answer that. Plus if you're using it on the motorway all day at 65mph or town driving under 30mph over speed bumps all day...

And get the rear subframe checked out for rust.

Most people don't have the stomach or wallet to start changing brake pipes, turbos, DPFs, gearbox components, alternators, new struts/sprints/control arms etc... you can get some bills that make you wince which, though still cheaper than a new car.... once they start coming regularly, that's the time to swap it out for something newer. It doesn't HAVE to be that expensive.
 

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