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ABS & ETS Light On - Advice Please!

Westy

Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2007
Messages
55
Hi All,

I'm new to Mercs & this forum, so be gentle with me please!

I'll start at the beginning, so you have all of the facts.

Recently purchased a 96 E230 Avantgarde from a local-ish used car dealer (who seemed perfectly reasonable prior to taking my cash!) and as part of the deal they were supposed to change the front drop-links prior to collection, due to a knocking sound over uneven surfaces.

Unfortunately, the work wasn't done prior to collection, but they assured me that they'd do it if I returned the vehicle the following week. Which was duly done, work completed and knock gone.

However, the following day I realised that they had snapped the locking wheel nut key in the nut and had conveniently neglected to tell me.

So back it went with no apology or admission from them (which did infuriate me somewhat). It took them two days to 'look at it' and when they had finally done it, all they did was remove the nut with the broken bit in and replaced it with a standard non-locking nut.

Obviously, this left me wondering 1) How do I get the remaining three wheels off and 2) The front O/S wheel is now unsecured against theft!

I tackled the dealer about this and he tried to palm me off with 'You can get the locking nut key from MB'. So I politely, but assertively, explained that, as it was their fault, they should replace the key and locking nut. To-which came a barrage of rage and insults and counter accusations regarding the mechanical soundness of the vehicle that I had traded in (despite the traders assertion on several occasions that it was a good drive!).

To be honest I was shocked and gob smacked , the bloke really went ape, bordering psychotic even (I did tell him that he wasn't right in the head during a momentary pause in his verbal abuse). I'm just glad it was over the phone, because there would have been fisty cuffs for sure.

Anyway ,the long and the short of it is that, his brother phoned back and agreed to buy the key for me and I compromised on the N/S/F wheel not being secure. (still no admission or apology on their part).

Now this was on Friday and I don't yet have the wheel nut key and since then the ABS/ETS lights have come on . The car is warranted for six months, but as you can imagine - I'm not convinced that they are going to honour this warranty and to add to that, I'm not keen to have them look at it again - I just don't trust them! Unless it’s going to be a major cost, I’d rather just sort it myself, plus that means I’ll not be without a car for who knows how many days – which is quite important, being self employed!

So back to the reason for the post here (sorry it’s so long), just prior to the lights coming on I heard a noise as if something fell off and bounced around a bit before dropping off– which appeared to come from the rear N/S. Now I couldn’t say whether the lights came on immediately, but I had noticed them within ten minutes of hearing the noise.

Obviously I can’t yet check properly, because three of the wheels won’t come off. But, on brief inspection, it appears all of the ABS sensors are present and correct.
Discounting the ABS sensors, could it be possible that one of the rear pads has disintegrated causing the wear indicator to short and hence the warning lights?

Would the wear indicator operate the ABS/ETS lights?

If not, where do I start (when I can get the wheels off that is!). Check all teeth present on the ABS rings, clean rings?

Can the ABS sensors be cleaned and poss’ tested with a multimeter?

Any other thoughts?

Also, what does ETS stand for? And which model is my car W210?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Regards,

Simon.
 
The car is a W210 model.

The locking key is available from the MB dealer for about £17.

As far as the abs problem I would suspect a sensor lead has been fractured, either that or one of the ABS rings has come off.
The sensors are just hall effect coils so can be metered with a multimeter set to Ohms.

I would take the car back and have the key sorted at the same time.

ETS is Elelctronic Traction System, or traction control.
 
Hi Dieselman,

Thanks for the quick response.

After a quick inspection all of the sensors, cables and rings appear in good order.

Is there a seperate pad wear indicator light on these?

Is the ETS and ABS sensor one and the same?

Cheers,

Si.
 
It could be as simple as the brake light switch causing the abs problem.

Regarding your ARB links. They would not have needed to take the wheels off to do it so the locking key may have been damaged before?
 
Last edited:
Yes and Yes.!
 
It could be as simple a sthe brake light switch.

Could be but soem coincidence to the bang noise plus it's on all the time, not just after pressing the brake after initial start up.
 
It could be as simple as the brake light switch causing the abs problem.

Regarding your ARB links. They would not have needed to take the wheels off to do it so the locking key may have been damaged before?

I had checked that the wheel nut key was there and OK soon after picking the car up.

They are the only other people to have had the car except me, and I didn't break it in there.

Yes, they said they didn't need to remove the wheel to do the work, but someone there had attempted to.

Perhaps it was the wheel nut fairy, damn annoying creatures them! LOL
 
i would just go to the dealers and get them to crack off the locking nuts for you (they have the full set) and install a set from local motor factor, will save messing about with the dodgy car dealer..

ETS/ABS light is usually the brake light switch by the pedals...

Cheers

Jay
 
How about getting someone who knows what they are doing with 210's to repair it and present the bill to the selling garage with two or 3 "mates".
 
i would just go to the dealers and get them to crack off the locking nuts for you (they have the full set) and install a set from local motor factor, will save messing about with the dodgy car dealer..

ETS/ABS light is usually the brake light switch by the pedals...

Cheers

Jay

Yes, I had thought about that, set of locking wheel nuts from factors about £30 inc.

I wouldn't mind betting they'd just remove the bulb if I took it back to them. Really have lost complete faith in them, especially after lying bare faced about not breaking the wheel nut key. It was an issue that would have cost them a bit of time and a set of nuts. Instead they'd rather lie and try and intimidate me into going away.

There were other issues with them, missing stereo face off - that they neglected to mention. Didn't polish out some scratches they said they would. Car was filthy on collection. In fact the chap even tried to get out of doing the drop arm, he said 'It only happens on rough roads'. Great!

BTW: They are Stansted Cars in Essex in case anyone else local was thinking of using them - be very careful!

I'll give them a couple of days to get the key and have a look myself. If it proves to be an easy/cheapish fix then I'll sort it myself.

Cheers,

Si.
 
How about getting someone who knows what they are doing with 210's to repair it and present the bill to the selling garage with two or 3 "mates".


I really think that would be the only way to get this chap to listen! He thinks himself a bit of a 'Turkish' out of Snatch! But his brother is no Gorgeous George!

Trouble is, when you've fallen out with someone like that (totally unreasonable), you just don't know if they try a bit of sabotage to get there own back!

Better of just seeing if I can sort it and chalk it down to experience. Oh, and bad mouthing them where ever and whenever I can. Mind you, don't think they are too bothered about repeat business!
 
Unfortunately not a nice way to do businesss.... If you are ever up my way i have a bag full of locking nuts, i think i must have a complete set here so could loosen them off for you too..
The dealer would be just as easy..
 
Unfortunately not a nice way to do businesss.... If you are ever up my way i have a bag full of locking nuts, i think i must have a complete set here so could loosen them off for you too..
The dealer would be just as easy..

And they will normally fit them for free.
 
Unfortunately not a nice way to do businesss.... If you are ever up my way i have a bag full of locking nuts, i think i must have a complete set here so could loosen them off for you too..
The dealer would be just as easy..

Thanks for the offer, very kind, but probs wont be round that way for a fair ol' while.

We'll see if 'Turkish' comes up trumps with a key and I'll prob get a new set from my local motor factors.

Back on the subject of the ABS/ETS, does anyone know if it's possible to reset the fault codes without the use of an OBDII tool?

Cheers again.
 
you wont need to get the codes done... if its just the brake light switch then itll reset when its sorted..
 
you wont need to get the codes done... if its just the brake light switch then itll reset when its sorted..

But what if it's not the brake light switch?

My thinking was that maybe the noise I heard was a stone flicking up and maybe caused a temporary fault condition with the ABS/ETS sensor! Resetting the codes would confirm this, or not if the light remains on.

Or I could be talking out of my armpits! :confused:
 
The ABS fault will reset on each start up. You have a permenant fault.

If your car has an OBDII socket near the steering wheel then an OBDII diag tool will work, if it only has the MB 38 pin socket in the engine bay then it wont, you will need an appropriate scanner.

See here for CODE READERS
 
Personally, I prefer not to fit lock nuts. If my wheels get kncked, I'll claim the insurance. My attitude is, if they are gonna try and pinch the wheels, and are unable to, they are just as likely to break a window or do other damage.
 

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