- Joined
- Dec 29, 2013
- Messages
- 6,156
- Location
- Kidderminster Worcestershire UK
- Car
- Mercedes W124 260E M103
I would start with a new set of spark plugs ....but it looks like fuel related to me .
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
It’s def fuel relatedI would start with a new set of spark plugs ....but it looks like fuel related to me .
Thanks for thatThis is for 1984 380SL it might be the same ,look at the rear of the glove box View attachment 161645
This is a picture on the one I am looking atThis is for 1984 380SL it might be the same ,look at the rear of the glove box View attachment 161645
From the wiring diagram I can only see one pump.If this is a model with twin fuel pumps have you checked both are working?
From the wiring diagram I can only see one pump.
When I remove the pipe at the injection pump there is plenty of pressurised fuel stored up.
I will look into that ThanksI ask because alot of k-jet cars run twin pumps to get enough fuel pressure, the symptoms you describe are what happens when one of them drops out. Only way to know for sure is to get under the rear of the car and check.
That theory should be testable by removing spark plugs. If your theory is correct, expect the plugs to appear different to each other.I am starting to wonder if the chap on YouTube may be correct. It seems the injectors are all under constant pressure all of the time. The vapour just sits in the mainifold until the valve opens.So if one or two are just squirting to feed just those cylinders maybe no fuel reaching the rest?
That’s trueThat theory should be testable by removing spark plugs. If your theory is correct, expect the plugs to appear different to each other.
Still trying to sort this 1980 380E
It’s been stood a couple of years and it seems it’s common not to start and run well after this.
When you turn the key to start it fires and runs for about 3 or 4 seconds.
I can keep it running in a fashion by squirting fuel direct into the intake.
I have checked the electrical system and even when it won’t start the coil has power so pretty sure it’s not electrical.
I put 2 cans of injector cleaner in the system and worked it through and let it stand a week but it made no difference.
Even when it won’t run there is lots of fuel under quiet high pressure to the fuel pump.
Today I removed 2 injectors just to test and see if they could be blocked with carbon but blowing an airline into them and it sprayed out.
One thing I thought about was it has a cold start device that appears to squirt fuel direct into the manifold.
I was thinking if this is faulty maybe there is no cold start? It has an electrical pulse as the book says but unsure if the valve works.
Any ideas ?
Failing that anyone know of a specialist on this system ? I am located Spalding Lincs
Thank you
Getting fuel.Still trying to sort this car.
It’s been stood a couple of years and it seems it’s common not to start and run well after this.
When you turn the key to start it fires and runs for about 3 or 4 seconds.
Not getting fuel.I can keep it running in a fashion by squirting fuel direct into the intake.
Cold start devices and the fuel pump relay appear to be the two most troublesome aspects of KE Jetronic. What I'm not understanding is that it fires and runs for 3-4 seconds if the cold enrichment isn't working - which is implied by it only running thereafter while cold if force fed fuel. Maybe cold enrichment is being switched off when cranking ceases?One thing I thought about was it has a cold start device that appears to squirt fuel direct into the manifold.
I was thinking if this is faulty maybe there is no cold start? It has an electrical pulse as the book says but unsure if the valve works.
Still trying to sort this car.
It’s been stood a couple of years and it seems it’s common not to start and run well after this.
When you turn the key to start it fires and runs for about 3 or 4 seconds.
I can keep it running in a fashion by squirting fuel direct into the intake.
I have checked the electrical system and even when it won’t start the coil has power so pretty sure it’s not electrical.
I put 2 cans of injector cleaner in the system and worked it through and let it stand a week but it made no difference.
Even when it won’t run there is lots of fuel under quiet high pressure to the fuel pump.
Today I removed 2 injectors just to test and see if they could be blocked with carbon but blowing an airline into them and it sprayed out.
One thing I thought about was it has a cold start device that appears to squirt fuel direct into the manifold.
I was thinking if this is faulty maybe there is no cold start? It has an electrical pulse as the book says but unsure if the valve works.
Any ideas ?
Failing that anyone know of a specialist on this system ? I am located Spalding Lincs
Thank you
Thanks for the reply.Getting fuel.
Not getting fuel.
Cold start devices and the fuel pump relay appear to be the two most troublesome aspects of KE Jetronic. What I'm not understanding is that it fires and runs for 3-4 seconds if the cold enrichment isn't working - which is implied by it only running thereafter while cold if force fed fuel. Maybe cold enrichment is being switched off when cranking ceases?
Not sure about twin pumps ? You mean the supply pump from the tank?Did you check to see if it has twin pumps?
The cold start injector wont stop it from running, in this country it is rarely used anyway.
When it does run, is it on all cylinders?
Take a look at the rubber connections under the air flow meter, is there an air leak there?
Is that flashing still present when you quit cranking but keep it running by force feeding it?...Thanks for the reply.
The Haynes manual says the cold start device gets a pulse that varies depending on the Temperature .
Not fully understanding it but I do see my test lamp connected to its wires flash when cranking.
....if not, I'd consider the above - just be careful that a continuous (not pulsed) supply doesn't somehow overwhelm it.I am tempted to make a connector and give the cold start a direct feed?
The way I read it the flash depends on the temp outside.Is that flashing still present when you quit cranking but keep it running by force feeding it?...
....if not, I'd consider the above - just be careful that a continuous (not pulsed) supply doesn't somehow overwhelm it.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.