advice.
currently my routine: snow foam > rinse > autoglym shampoo using 2 bucket > rinse > dry.
Now used up my autoglym and was looking at a new shampoo. In the mood to try something different. I noticed a lot of "foaming shampoos". In fact sutoglymn do one. Folk seem to apply these via a lance.
I was wondering what that routine looks like? Do you apply via a lance, then rub down and rinse? That would seem to avoid 2 bucket and maybe be quicker
I am sure most of the well known manufacturers that put out products for autos will have snow foams worthy of their name, and just as there are a vast array to choose from, so you will have a fair few car enthusiasts leaning towards one or other in preference for their jalopies.
My choice is the 3 Polar system by Autoglym and I tend to buy the larger quantities when they are on offer, as I usually do two cars and the Tranny at the same time having got the gear out it makes sense and is easy enough to do. I say that though, things are getting decidedly harder with advancing years
The reason I go with Autoglym is it was recommended to me years ago, I tried it, it's easy to use as I say, and the results were awesome, so that's why I stick with it, no point in going else where when this one ticks all the boxes for me and my girls.
On the ease of use side it is what the manufacturers term as 'hands free' or to put another way contactless, and the beauty about making no physical contact with the car other than what comes out of the pressure washer is, that there is less chance of getting scratches or swirls on the paintwork, and however minor of course, these can build up over time.
Now to be fair, if your car is very dirty shall we say, then you may need to give the snow foam a little help in the form of some gentle agitation during the second stage, e.g. what I use is a sopping wet mitt dunked in a bucket Polar Wash solution and glide this over the body work after the Polar Wash has been on the car for a few minutes - job done. I do use a a grit guard in the bucket though, which I agitate the mitt on to help with removing gritty particles picked up off the car so that they sink to the bottom of the bucket and hopefully reduce the risk of scratching the paintwork - may do nothing but if it's there it at least has a chance of doing something I say.
It is also useful to have the Polar Wash solution in the bucket handy, if your wheels are very dirty and need an extra clean at the end of the body work clean, in using a dedicated wheel and then lastly trye brush for the job:. All depends on the state of your car to start with, ability, time constraints and your dedication to the task in hand etc, etc .....
The three stages are:
The Polar Seal is not used every time but is recommended by Autoglym at not more than once a month
It should also be noted that Autoglym state their Polar Wash and Polar Seal are NOT suitable for using on soft-top convertibles.
One bit of advice taken from various detailers and folks I have seen on YT videos I will share with you - do not rinse you vehicle down with water prior to any snow foam application. Now I'm sure there will be those that vehemently disagree, but like I always say, everyone is entitled to their own opinion with such things and this one is mine and I will tell you for why, :
* pre-wetting dilutes the initial desired concentration of snow foam product and reduces the surfactant efficacy.
* Pre-wetting provides a wet surface for the snow foam to land on and increases the rate at which it slides off the vehicle thereby reducing the duration of maximum desired concentration in contact with the vehicle
* a dry surface allows the initial foam to adhere better and the penetrants gain a better access/hold on the outside film of dirt known as traffic or road film. This film consists of multiple contaminants like car exhaust soot and carbon deposits, brake dust, motor oil, iron fallout, biological matter from trees, pollen, birds and insects, as well as minerals, salts, and pollutants from factories and construction sites etc. The pre-wash and wash snow foams, are said to be more effective by firstly the thick foam stays put longer allowing it more time to be active and breakdown dirt, the surfactants reduce water surface tension and help dissolve contaminants, enveloping particles and lifting them from the surface. Having been left for a number of minutes to work, but NEVER allowed to dry on the car, it is then rinsed off, and along with the foam the dirt and loosened road film is carried off with it.
Foam, Shampoo, Sealant all out of the pressure washer gun. 
